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  1. #16
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    The taper locks itself in; undo the drawbar a few turns, give it a rap on the end and it should pop the taper. If the holder has been in for a long time, it might be rusted or even cold welded in and you'll have to give it a good whack to free it

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    The taper locks itself in; undo the drawbar a few turns, give it a rap on the end and it should pop the taper. If the holder has been in for a long time, it might be rusted or even cold welded in and you'll have to give it a good whack to free it
    Had already given it a whack with a rubber mallet but nothing. Time to use a mans hammer perhaps. My mumma always used to say :if a hammer doesn't work, get a bigger hammer".

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    My mumma always used to say :if a hammer doesn't work, get a bigger hammer".
    So true. Often a bigger hammer used gently, works much better. Just use the weight to work for you rather that swing a small one violently.
    Nev.

  4. #19
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    It's the shock that will pop it more than the force, a rubber mallet won't do it.

  5. #20
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    I will put a pic of the mother-in-law on the top which may help some

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    The taper locks itself in; undo the drawbar a few turns, give it a rap on the end and it should pop the taper...
    Thanks for the brave pill mate. Managed to get literally 3 minutes of shed time this weekend. Big boy hammer popped it loose


    Now, this is my extensive stock of 50 taper tool holders. The 100mm face mill has a draw bar with a 1" thread. The unused holder does not have a thread at all. The 200+mm face mill has a thread with a major diameter of 13mm ish. I presume these are not all NT50 but some collection of the various different 50 taper types?

    20210516_170121.jpg


    To use the one with the 13mm ish thread, do I just need to make up a new draw bar with that thread and with a suitable diameter at the top to ensure it is held in the head and runs true?

    20210516_170154.jpg

  7. #22
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    Aug 2010
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    Toorloo Arm, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    Thanks for the brave pill mate. Managed to get literally 3 minutes of shed time this weekend. Big boy hammer popped it loose

    Now, this is my extensive stock of 50 taper tool holders. The 100mm face mill has a draw bar with a 1" thread. The unused holder does not have a thread at all. The 200+mm face mill has a thread with a major diameter of 13mm ish. I presume these are not all NT50 but some collection of the various different 50 taper types?

    To use the one with the 13mm ish thread, do I just need to make up a new draw bar with that thread and with a suitable diameter at the top to ensure it is held in the head and runs true?
    13mm ish (1/2" is 12.7mm?) sounds kind of like it might have originally had a pull stud for CNC use? Just guessing, having never actually seen one in person.

    If that's the case I don't see any reason why you can't make up a suitable drawbar, although I'll admit my first instinct was that 13mm seems underdone for the size of facemill, taper and power you likely have in that machine.

  8. #23
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    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    That's possibly true. Need to keep my eyes open for more tool holder

  9. #24
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    Mar 2014
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    South of Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    Thanks for the brave pill mate. Managed to get literally 3 minutes of shed time this weekend. Big boy hammer popped it loose


    Now, this is my extensive stock of 50 taper tool holders. The 100mm face mill has a draw bar with a 1" thread. The unused holder does not have a thread at all. The 200+mm face mill has a thread with a major diameter of 13mm ish. I presume these are not all NT50 but some collection of the various different 50 taper types?

    20210516_170121.jpg


    To use the one with the 13mm ish thread, do I just need to make up a new draw bar with that thread and with a suitable diameter at the top to ensure it is held in the head and runs true?

    20210516_170154.jpg
    I'm pretty sure the arbor with the smaller hole is home made, 50 taper should be 1"UNC or M24. That big facemill is designed to bolt straight on the spindle*, but i have never seen it done. don't need to worry about the drawbar running true, all it needs to do is hold the tool in.

    *provided your spindle has 4 threaded holes in it.

  10. #25
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    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    Spindle does have the 4 holes and may utilise them when truing up the edges of my 6 plates.

    Will make a suitable draw bar as time allows to suit the large face mill.

    I am also looking into the possibility of making some 50 taper holders but I suspect I will not have the skills or accurate enough machine to make something within decent tolerance. I was looking to buy some tooling at the recent Ford plant auction but got well beaten. That person is now selling the 50 taper stuff but the price is probably too high for me.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    I will put a pic of the mother-in-law on the top which may help some
    Do you think that the pic will scare the collet out????
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  12. #27
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    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Do you think that the pic will scare the collet out????
    Kryn
    Ahh, I see you have met the mother-in-law!

  13. #28
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    Mar 2014
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    South of Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    Spindle does have the 4 holes and may utilise them when truing up the edges of my 6 plates.

    Will make a suitable draw bar as time allows to suit the large face mill.

    I am also looking into the possibility of making some 50 taper holders but I suspect I will not have the skills or accurate enough machine to make something within decent tolerance. I was looking to buy some tooling at the recent Ford plant auction but got well beaten. That person is now selling the 50 taper stuff but the price is probably too high for me.
    50 taper stuff is pretty expensive and hard to find 2nd hand. I would get a good 50-40 reducer and get stuff that doesn't need huge rigidity, like collet chucks in 40 taper.

  14. #29
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    Oct 2001
    Location
    ACT
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    667

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    I would say that without seeing the other end of it, that your "unusual arbor without thread" is a taper sleeve. It would let you fit a different tapered arbor into the mill and still use a draw bar.

    would be interesting to work out what fits in it.

  15. #30
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    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    I’d probably take it one step further and make a couple of NT50 to MT3 or R8 adapters.

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