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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Default Fexac UG Vertical Head Help

    Does anybody have any experience with a Fexac UG mill? As part of my weld table build (thread coming soon) I need to mill some 16mm 1000x300mm plate flat and want to use my 120mmish milling head. I noticed that the vertical head is only held in by 2 bolts as the other 2 have shaped at some time. Rather than use the machine with 2 bolts only i was going to try to get the broken 2 out.

    Taking the vertical head off seems to be extremely hard! I took the 2 remaining bolts out that hold it to the column then loosened 2 large bolts on the rhs of the machine that i think loosen the gib for the overhead support. . Took some prying to start separating. But now I have it this far and it doesn't want to move.

    The vertical head is also attached the the overhead support. Unlike a Bridgeport there is no mechanical method the move the overhead support rearwards.

    Does the VH pull off the front and hang by the weak looking hanging arm or do i need to also slide the OHS to the rear (in which case I'm stuffed as the whole mill will need to be moved forward away from the wall!)?

    Not used this machine in anger yet so still crawling. Don't want a second knackered mill in the shed.

    Also, how do I lock the VH spindle in order to loosen the draw bar?

    20210511_112243.jpg20210511_112224.jpg

  2. #2
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    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Ok took a brave pill and a deep breath and used a toe jack to lift the front a little. It was probably just binding a little from the weight.

    Now to tackle the bolts!

    Will try the pre-cut screw slots and assuming that doesn't work then weld on a nut?? Sounds horrible right next to a machined surface.

    16206995486224085669935366321728.jpg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    Default

    If there snapped of there probably tight.
    I always find after welding bolts come out easily.
    The heat expands them once cool they contract, making them come out easily.

    Just tape up some scrap sheet metal around it to protect the surfaces.

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
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  4. #4
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    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    Well I am amazed. You would have thought a snapped off bolt that somebody has already milled a slot in was previously abandoned. I tapped the bolts and they turned right out!!!!

  5. #5
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    Default

    Thats got to make your day, buy a lottery ticket.
    Now to find some replacements.
    I'd just replace all 4 with new ones, it sounds like someone over tightened them and they snapped, so the other 2 maybe stretched as well.

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
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  6. #6
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    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    Default

    Is there a hole in the top right corner of the vertical head above weir the securing bolt is?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Is there a hole in the top right corner of the vertical head above weir the securing bolt is?
    If you mean the small black hole between the 2 large nuts, that is a 6mm(?) allen bolt/set screw.

    Just been to united fasteners and bought new bolts. Also went to Hercus and picked up a pair of 2:1 bevel gears and then to Protec to get some paint for the table.... now back to the shed....

  8. #8
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    I thought there was a hole for a dowel above the right hand securing bolt.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Nope.

    I now cannot see any oil flowing in the peep window. The oil level window shows it is just below half way down the window when running.

    This has been asked many times but a quick search didn't come up with the answers. What oil do I put in the machine? Is this all hydraulic oil? There appears to be only the 1 full hole in the top.

    EDIT: There is one fill hole for the main body and another for the knee. Both are low.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    ISO 68 hydraulic oil is usually a safe bet on an old machine like that, unless it's a coolant tank....then don't do that lol

    I'd be tempted to flush it all out with solvent first to clear any sludge from the bottom, at least then you know it's going to be clean oil (or as good as you can reasonably get it)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
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    1,225

    Default

    there probably isn't a spindle lock, on a mill like that i normally hold one of the drive dogs to loosen/tighten the drawbar.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    If you have the table travel to machine a piece a metre long I have a smallish job for you if you're interested in some beer money.

  13. #13
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    Adelaide
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    Noticed this arvo that there is only 1 drive dog so I guess that is the one I will need to hold!!

    As for the oil flow, decided it must be flowing judging by the stream of oil leaking out of the bottom of the peep window!

    I agree that a flush would be a good thing. iso 68 in both the one and main column?

    Table travel is 1m plus the width of the 100mm gave mill. I only have 2 have mild for the machine but if I can help you out let me know.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    I'll message you with some details when I have a minute, job is just over 900 long, I can provide the cutter if you have a 25mm collet or autolock

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    I'll message you with some details when I have a minute, job is just over 900 long, I can provide the cutter if you have a 25mm collet or autolock
    I have a 100mm face mill and a ~250mm face mill both on 50 taper holders. I don't have any other holders for the machine. Very happy to help out but we might need to borrow a 50 taper holder from somebody. You will also need to show me how to change over holders as undoing the draw bar nut does nothing. Cannot budge it at all!

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