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  1. #16
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    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    18

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    I was thinking that I might be able to solder a small nut to the cable?

    That is, cut the cable, splay the ends, then flood the hole in the nut and the splayed cable end with solder.

  2. #17
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    Jun 2007
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    Vic
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    Hi Chris,

    That is the cable end cover. You can find them at Decathelon, just use the electrical crimper to crimp. those bolts with the hole is how you adjust it, not the end cover.

    PS: Here is what you need. https://decathlon.com.au/products/br...30893350912111 I am in Mount Waverley if you need to borrow the crimper.

  3. #18
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackaroo View Post
    Hi Chris,

    That is the cable end cover. You can find them at Decathelon, just use the electrical crimper to crimp. those bolts with the hole is how you adjust it, not the end cover.

    PS: Here is what you need. https://decathlon.com.au/products/br...30893350912111 I am in Mount Waverley if you need to borrow the crimper.
    Yes, I've seen those end covers. Aren't they just to stop the end of the cable from fraying? I'm not sure they'd be strong enough to resist the pressure when the brakes are applied (but I'm only guessing).

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,636

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    The photos of the Peugeot's front brake show that there is no soldered connection on the main cable.
    Instead, it is clamped to the balance piece, as is often the way on pushbikes.
    That is good news - no soldering needed, for that end anyway.
    Advantage is that it is adjustable for length, whereas soldering needs to have accurate location of the nipple.
    The metal anti-fray ferrule at the loose end of the inner cable is just to keep it tidy and not really necessary.
    Working on my own bicycles, I don't fully tighten solderless fittings until I get it all working well.
    "Half tight" allows easy adjustment, and is enough to operate the calipers for a trial run.
    Obviously, don't ride the bike until all is fully tightened.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    18

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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    The photos of the Peugeot's front brake show that there is no soldered connection on the main cable.
    Instead, it is clamped to the balance piece, as is often the way on pushbikes.
    That is good news - no soldering needed, for that end anyway.
    Advantage is that it is adjustable for length, whereas soldering needs to have accurate location of the nipple.
    The metal anti-fray ferrule at the loose end of the inner cable is just to keep it tidy and not really necessary.
    Working on my own bicycles, I don't fully tighten solderless fittings until I get it all working well.
    "Half tight" allows easy adjustment, and is enough to operate the calipers for a trial run.
    Obviously, don't ride the bike until all is fully tightened.
    The back brake is different to the front brake. Have a look at picture 2 and you'll see that the straddle cable sits in two rotating "buckets". I think it's held in place by a bit of tension in the main brake cable. After the cable snapped the two ends of the cable were still sitting in the "buckets". Picture 3 is a side-on view of one of the "buckets".

  6. #21
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    Jun 2007
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    Vic
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    Ah, having a second look and I realised the front brake and the back are not the same. Check the old cable diameter and the size of this hole below. Tell me the length of the cable you need, I might be able to make something for you.

    Regards,
    Trong

    Rear Brake 2.jpg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackaroo View Post
    Ah, having a second look and I realised the front brake and the back are not the same. Check the old cable diameter and the size of this hole below. Tell me the length of the cable you need, I might be able to make something for you.

    Regards,
    Trong

    Rear Brake 2.jpg
    Thanks for the offer! I'm going to have a go at doing this myself as I can see that there's going to be some stuffing around trying to figure out the length of the cable. At the moment I can't get the new cable into the bucket as the end is a bit too big. Once I file it down I should have a better idea of the cable length.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    4,846

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    Quote Originally Posted by cpsmusic View Post
    Could you post a link for these.

    Cheers!
    Hi Cps, I'm in the UK so you would be better using the links others have provided !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #24
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    It will likely to be 1.5mm for the brake cable then Chris. Something like this has one end already, you might only need to make the other end. I have the lathe here and could make the other end for you if needed. If you failed and need a hand, just give me a yell, the offer is there...

    20210504_171955.jpg

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
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    1,636

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    Cable wire is pretty hard stuff, and filing it could be difficult.
    Better to grind it.
    But heat build up can be enough to melt solder.
    Have water nearby so you can dip the cable end in it frequently, rather than grind it in one go.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    18

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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    Cable wire is pretty hard stuff, and filing it could be difficult.
    Better to grind it.
    But heat build up can be enough to melt solder.
    Have water nearby so you can dip the cable end in it frequently, rather than grind it in one go.
    It's only the end that need filing and not much needs to come off so it should be do-able.

  12. #27
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jackaroo View Post
    It will likely to be 1.5mm for the brake cable then Chris. Something like this has one end already, you might only need to make the other end. I have the lathe here and could make the other end for you if needed. If you failed and need a hand, just give me a yell, the offer is there...

    20210504_171955.jpg
    Thanks for the offer - I already have a cable with one end, it's the other end that I need to attach! If I run into problems I'll be in touch.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Cps, Guys,

    That "Decathlon" stainless cable is tough stuff ! Use a cutting disc on a Dremal. Its not like the old steel bowden cables, it doesn't solder easily either, it really needs to be crimped.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    18

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    Hi All,

    A quick update. Last night I spent some time looking into soldering an end to the cable that I've got. The cable is stainless steel, and as it's being used for brakes, the ends need to be secure. This has led me to silver solder, which in turn requires a special flux and a torch (which I don't have). So what I've decided is to see if a local jeweler can solder a stainless steel nut to the cable. Should be cheaper than buying silver solder, flux and a torch.

    Cheers,

    Chris

  15. #30
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    18

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    Here's what I've done so far. Now I need to find a jeweller to solder the nut!

    Cheers!
    Attached Images Attached Images

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