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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    58
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    Default How rotate concentric rods and lock in 2 different positions.

    Hi Guys,
    I'm consulting the brain trust again for ideas.
    You may remember I was asking about fitting dual accelerator pedals a while back. I have had no luck getting help so I am going to do it myself, or give up......

    The A6 Audi accelerator pedel must have been the last part they fitted as it has some serious bends in it so it would work!. No long straight sections at all and pedal is mounted off kilter! grrrrrrr

    The idea I have, is to design a mechanism, where I can pull a detent pin, rotate the pedal up approx 45° where the detent pin will pop back in place to hold the pedal out of the way. ( very hard to explain...I hope you can follow.
    Have thought of using 2 steel discs, but can't work out how to have the shafts to STAY in concenticity , the whole time. ( Maybe they don't need to, just when in 'down' position.?)
    I have about 10mm of straight section so the mechansim has to be compact, otherwise it will move the pedal further out and will require the pedal to be re-orientated. ( Trying to keep ot KISS)
    Pedal rod is 12 mm steel so I can mig the discs to the shafts. I have a lathe so I can machine 2 discs from mild steel.

    Note: don't worry about the legalities of this. I will get approved.

    Steve

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/k2ECAN17mdYJDTkw8

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    blackburn vic
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Hi Steve
    Have you thought about using a cable instead of a linkage?

    Roger

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Or an electric "drive by wire" throttle pedal?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Default

    Use a cable to fold the pedal up? Not sure what you mean.
    I've seen cables used to pull one pedal down while the other goes up, but thats not what I'm doing here. That is adding more complexity.

    The car IS drive by wire. I'm going to unplug one pedal and plug the other one in when I want to change. I won't be doing it very often.

    Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    5,942

    Default

    Hi Steve, THANKS for the piccy, we can now see what you're up against.
    A couple of ways to have the rods in concentricity, would be to have the rod on the fixed end, have a sleeve on it with the disc to locate position of the pedal, while the pedal end slips inside the sleeve. To keep the rod in place, a slot will need to be cut and a rolled pin installed to locate it as the pedal is rotated into the up or down position.
    Another simpler way, would be to extend the fixed rod at the location of the discs with a threaded end piece and the pedal end have a tube with the disc attached, so that it slides over the threaded end to allow it to rotate into the up or down position. If you want a firm fitting on the shaft at the tube location, delrin or similar could be used to give a good fit with out worrying about rusting together.
    The reason for the threaded end, is to have a Nyloc nut fitted to prevent the pedal section from sliding off.
    For these ideas to work, the pedal pivot may need to be modified to work correctly.
    For the detent pin, this probably would make life easier. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Retracte...8AAOSwbIRfcXJY
    Will try to draw a sketch tomorrow, if you're not sure of what I'm on about.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    If its just a simple rotation you want, then a pair of tubes, one a good sliding fit inside the other. Use a piece of flat spring steel to rivet inside the smaller tube with a peg on the end that pops through holes suitably drilled in the outer tube at the angle you want. When you want to change, just press the peg in to the outer tube so that it rotates and the peg pops out of the other hole.

    I hope that I've described it well enough for you to build what I'm trying to describe, if not then I can do a drawing for you !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
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    Default

    Thanks guys.
    I'm not sure any of thise ideas would work, as there is only a very small section of steel rod that is straight. ( 10mm if I'm lucky...maybe less.)
    The rod does 3 90° changes in direction in quick succession.....

    Concentricity in both positions may be a pipe dream.....dunno. Its not super critical it in the folded up position.
    If you need more pics or some dimensions I can post them.


    I was thinking of using complete discs to get the rigdity I need. Don't want it flapping around, but that may not be possible....

    More thinking required.

    The side view of the pedal. Its a work of art....lol But very hard to modify.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/fcwT9pMKXffJ3V1x5

    Steve

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    6,540

    Default

    You may have to remake the pedal to get a suitable section. The Audi designers would have done it that way originally because they could bend a single piece of rod to get the pedal. If you are going to cut and shut to get a detent mech in there, nothing says that you can't change the shape a little to incorporate (for example) a sleeve section on one half as Kryn has suggested.

    Michael

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Default

    Yep, I think you are right.
    Thanks

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Is it worth looking into other Audi electronic pedals to see if there is a better base design to work with?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Is it possible you are over thinking this?

    Does there really need to be a detent pin?
    How about just a pivot with a stop, let gravity hold it down*. Have something fixed to the car to hold it up.
    Apart from being easier to make, it would also mean you only had to get your fingers to the bottom of the pedal to lift it out of the way rather than the top of the pedal near the firewall.

    *you could add a spring or perhaps a magnet if you felt it needed it.

  12. #12
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    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    Is it worth looking into other Audi electronic pedals to see if there is a better base design to work with?
    I've bought a couple of pedals from other models. They have differnt connectors on them, the alignment is different, the mounting is different and the pedal is on the opposite side......
    Was going to make a adapter up to see if they will work, but not done that yet, as I haven't confirmed the pin outs.

    Steve

  13. #13
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    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Steve,

    Is it possible you are over thinking this?

    THAT is a very real possibility Stu.....lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Does there really need to be a detent pin?
    How about just a pivot with a stop, let gravity hold it down*. Have something fixed to the car to hold it up.
    Apart from being easier to make, it would also mean you only had to get your fingers to the bottom of the pedal to lift it out of the way rather than the top of the pedal near the firewall.

    *you could add a spring or perhaps a magnet if you felt it needed it.
    I need a left AND a right accelerator pedal to be usable at different times. Sorry, I was not very clear.....
    I thought a detent pin would be secure and relatively ridgid. I have a couple of small ones in my parts box.

    I originally looed at spring loaded pivots. That is how the spendy pedals work, but room is a real problem for me. (The clevis's are quite bulky. )
    They are a alot of work to make and I'm not sure I could get them to fit.

    I then moved onto the 'rotating pedal' idea as it should be very compact.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    I'm picturing cutting the pedal between the 1st and 2rd 90deg bends(from the top) and welding in something as high tech as a door hinge with the pin at the top. If that's not clear(hey I know what I mean lol) I cold knock up a mook up when it stops raining.

  15. #15
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    It's ugly, but hopefully you get the idea.

    Can't weld one up it wont stop raining and I'm limited to welding outside ATM.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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