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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snapatap View Post
    good buy with that lump of granite. Was that the Cmm that still had the probe on it?
    Cheers, i was pretty happy with it. Its 1100 wide, 1900 long and 250mm thick. I worked it out to over 1500kg in just granite. I stripped the gantry and side panels off it while it was still on the truck, and the hiab still couldnt lift it. I ended up backing the truck into the shed, then using my car hoist to raise the table while i drove out from under it. I havent been able to move it since lol. Ive got to make some load skates.

    it did have a renishaw probe on it. I kept all that stuff and the encoders / probe tip rack but i’ll never use it. I see someone else has listed one of the probes removed from another machine sold there on ebay for $2000! I have no idea what they are actually worth.

    rowdy

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    292

    Default

    Unless you see a bunch of wear on the CMM table it will be flatter than anything you will need unless you are doing lab work. Remember they were used to measure 0.0001"/0.00254mm. Don't overlook the beam across the top. It will be just as flat on at least three of the four faces so you can use it as another surface plate. Vertical beams might also be as good although they were just for support of the upper beam, checking will verify. The Renishaw stuff is expensive so do some investigation. The probe trigger, silver bit on the black knuckle can cost $2,000 if I remember correctly and the knuckle portion can cost over $10,000 new depending on the model. The older ones, no longer made, can command good money for people needing one and even if non working have value to a repair shop for parts. Everything to do with CMMs is expensive right down to the little Ruby touch probes that screw into the trigger. If the control box is there they and their circuit boards have value to those needing them. Our company bought one just to have for spares to keep it running. You might also be able to adapt the scales to a mill or lathe too. Some can be shortened. Lots of goodies.

    Pete

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    Unless you see a bunch of wear on the CMM table it will be flatter than anything you will need unless you are doing lab work. Remember they were used to measure 0.0001"/0.00254mm. Don't overlook the beam across the top. It will be just as flat on at least three of the four faces so you can use it as another surface plate. Vertical beams might also be as good although they were just for support of the upper beam, checking will verify. The Renishaw stuff is expensive so do some investigation. The probe trigger, silver bit on the black knuckle can cost $2,000 if I remember correctly and the knuckle portion can cost over $10,000 new depending on the model. The older ones, no longer made, can command good money for people needing one and even if non working have value to a repair shop for parts. Everything to do with CMMs is expensive right down to the little Ruby touch probes that screw into the trigger. If the control box is there they and their circuit boards have value to those needing them. Our company bought one just to have for spares to keep it running. You might also be able to adapt the scales to a mill or lathe too. Some can be shortened. Lots of goodies.

    Pete
    Yeah I'm tipping it is going to be much flatter than the damn old machines I have anyway. I am doing closer to farm work than lab work haha.

    Holy moly, I didn't realize the probe stuff was so pricey. I had never even seen a CMM before I purchased this one! I am a fitter and turner by trade, but I have worked as a maintenance fitter my whole career. there are no CMM's in the places I've worked.

    I kept that gantry beam when I stripped the machine down, that will be used for a CNC router build. The vertical beams where just fabricated sheet metal, with adjustable feet to contact the air bearings. man, I was surprised at how much preload was on the air bearings side to side of the table.

    Unfortunately the cables and hoses from the machine to whatever controlled it had just been cut. So no control hardware. But it sounds like the probe etc. might fund the next tool purchase...

    For anyone reading I am after a power scraper like a biax or renz etc. if you know anyone selling one please sing out.

    cheers, Rowdy

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Allright, well the pattern is pretty much finished. Things slowed down a little when I had to go away for work for a week, but I took it with me to keep on sanding in the hotel room lol. It was a lot of fun playing with the soft stuff (wood) but I'm ready to get back to metalwork. I have a few more coats of polyurethane to put on and a little bit more sanding- There is always a little bit more sanding- and then I will be taking it down to the foundry.

    IMG_2624.jpgIMG_2625.jpgIMG_2626.jpg

    I laminated four 3mm strips of ply onto the top of the web to form the arch, and then used the router to put a nice half round profile on it. Then I cut the 12mm half round profile to use as the ribs.

    IMG_2548.jpgIMG_2600.jpg

    I had one big whoops moment when I was power planing the draft onto the sole - the plane chipped most of the outermost layer of the ply I used on the ends of the SE right off. I had to scrounge around amongst the woodchips and sawdust on the floor to find it and carefully glue and clamp it back on in the right spot. I got most of it back on but had to use a bit of filler.

    Getting a nice radius up to all the intersections was a PITA, I did not expect it to take so long. I used a syringe to get a bead of filler right along the corners and used a silicone radius wiper to get a nice fillet. however the filler shrunk a lot as it dried, leaving a crease right in the middle of the fillet. so I needed to go over it three times, bloody thing. I probably could have done more but in the end I decided it was fit for purpose. I would use a different filler material next time, that's for sure.

    I would like to put some raised lettering on it, and an 'Australia' shape logo, but not sure where I would get them. I thought about a 3d printer but Im not buying one just for this. any suggestions?

    I'll be getting two of these made up initially unless anyone else wants one, let me know. I hope to have this off to the foundry in the next couple of weeks.

    In the meantime I will be making some load skates to move that damn lump of rock out of the way of my car hoist.

    cheers, Rowdy

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    395

    Default

    Sanding bog fillets, hours of fun.
    What sort of filler did you use?
    I use car bog and just grind a few bits of old hand hacksaw blade to the rad I need.

    You could cut a map of Oz out of thin ply, Lino or lead and super glue it on.

    Lettering is a problem now our local Foundry industry has disappeared.
    Barnes in Sydney used to keep the Al letters but we last bought some from them about 5 years ago.
    I don’t know who the Melbourne supplier was, might be worth ringing TAFE if they still have a Patternmaking teacher and asking him.
    Theres been a bit of discussion re letters in the Foundry section.

    I’m interested to see you’ve made a solid rather than a split pattern, the Foundry must still have a few jobbing moulders I guess.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Hi Rowdy, I can 3D print something for you if you can give me STL files.
    I’d normally be happy to have a crack at the design side for my own learning, but don’t have that time to commit right now.
    No drama with doing a slice and print.
    I’m in Lara, but may be able to get the prints delivered to you through a work colleague.

    Steve

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Has there been any updates on this project. Am very interested to hear if the castings are useable and if you are doing more.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    37

    Default

    G'day,

    Unfortunately no progress. I had an appointment to have my pattern inspected and if all was ok, i was going to leave it with them and get it cast. That weekend another lockdown got announced and i had to cancel.

    Then i had some financial pressures, with the missus unable to work due to poor health. I couldn't justify spending the money at the time, so had to put it off.

    I tried instead to crack on with little jobs around the place that didn't cost anything much.

    Anyway we are going strong again now, and i'll be dropping the pattern in to be looked at within a month or so. If all is well i will have them cast and hopefully it should line up with the purchase of a new mill to complete the machining.

    Thanks for your interest, Rowdy

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Hi Rowdy, I can 3D print something for you if you can give me STL files.
    I’d normally be happy to have a crack at the design side for my own learning, but don’t have that time to commit right now.
    No drama with doing a slice and print.
    I’m in Lara, but may be able to get the prints delivered to you through a work colleague.

    Steve
    Thanks Steve,

    Sorry for the late reply!

    Good to know theres another member local.

    Is your 3d printer a filament or a sls type?

    Cheers, Rowdy

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by qb6sagr View Post
    Thanks Steve,

    Sorry for the late reply!

    Good to know theres another member local.

    Is your 3d printer a filament or a sls type?

    Cheers, Rowdy
    It’s filament, and really only good for PLA/PLA+

    Steve


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    QLD
    Age
    56
    Posts
    97

    Default

    Hi Rowdy, Is this project still on hold?

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