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  1. #1
    smidsy is offline 21 with 19 years experience
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    Default Total Tools Band Saw

    Has anyone got or used one of these totaltools bandsaws?
    For $500 you don't get a coolant feed but I can rig one with a 12v model aircraft refueling pump.
    I have a project in mind but I need to be able to do accurate and neat cuts at 45 & 22.5 degrees on 50x50x3 RHS.

    https://www.totaltools.com.au/100386...-370w-mcb115s2

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    Has anyone got or used one of these totaltools bandsaws?
    For $500 you don't get a coolant feed but I can rig one with a 12v model aircraft refueling pump.
    I have a project in mind but I need to be able to do accurate and neat cuts at 45 & 22.5 degrees on 50x50x3 RHS.

    https://www.totaltools.com.au/100386...-370w-mcb115s2
    That is a basic 6X4 bandsaw, mine is/was identical except for the colour. I'm very happy with mine, but you do have to spend a fair amount of time setting it up to cut dead square in both planes. As far as angles go, I have cut hardwood blocks to suit the angles that I want. I use mine for almost anything that I would need to cut that I would have previously used a hacksaw for.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #3
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    Has anyone got or used one of these totaltools bandsaws?
    For $500 you don't get a coolant feed but I can rig one with a 12v model aircraft refueling pump.
    Looks pretty much like a standard 6 x4 BS.

    Two issues with coolant pumps on bandsaws;

    No matter how well you filter the return fluid, some fine metallic sludge seems to get back. Then if the pump has any magnets in it the sludge will stick to the magnetic part and eventually stall the motor. This is what I found using both an aquarium and a water feature pump which use a permanent magnet rotors. Without any filtering the motor would stop within a couple of weeks so I put a fine mesh and REE magnet filters which increased the maintenance time to a few months.

    The next thing is the pumps need to be able to run a long time - somewhat longer than it would take to fuel up an RC vehicle. So you need to make sure the pump can run continuously for many minutes. Aquarium pumps are really good for this apart from the magnetic

    I ended up using an AC washing machine pump for my BShas been cleaned since I installed in about 5 year ago.

    Interestingly the water feature pump (also with a permanent magnet rotor) on my lathe coolant loop hasn't needed cleaning in 10 years. The same pump when used on the BS clogs very quickly.

    I can really recommend using a full width/length coolant capture/swarf tray other wise both things will end up all over the floor. If you only catch the coolant near the blade when you lift the arm up coolant will dribble off the back of the arm. for the fluid.

    IMG_6155.jpg

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    I need to be able to do accurate and neat cuts at 45 & 22.5 degrees on 50x50x3 RHS.
    In that case you should probably consider a swivelling head band saw. https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B003
    Chris

  5. #5
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    Default

    Honestly there all about the same, just shop on price like eBay etc and don't overlook used.
    Once setup with a little bit of fiddling there a great saw.

    I also bought a used 7x12 from memory and rebuild it, but don't use it at all as I overlooked the pivot point having slop.
    I'll get around to fixing it, but my little 100x115mm saw gets all the work and blades are cheap.
    I have a soft spot for it as I bought it used around 25 years ago and it's done everything I've ever asked of it.

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    In that case you should probably consider a swivelling head band saw. https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B003
    Hi Chris, Guys,

    Actually considering just how difficult it is even with a swivelling head to get the machine cutting dead square again, I couldn't recommend it. At least with a fixed angle block you can just remove it without prating about.
    I consistently get cuts within a few thou of dead square.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    I consistently get cuts within a few thou of dead square.
    OK John, but the OP wants to cut mitres. My swivel head BS has a stop that returns it to 90 degrees. I thought they all did?
    Chris

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    OK John, but the OP wants to cut mitres. My swivel head BS has a stop that returns it to 90 degrees. I thought they all did?
    Hi Chris,

    The ones that I've seen use a loose pin on a chain to put in a hole and a bolt to stop it rattling. A friend of mine has one and he's welded it in place so it cannot move, he now uses a welded steel angle guide to cut 45 degree pieces.

    I recall him threading the pin hole and using a bolt at one point, but that didn't make much difference.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Looks pretty much like a standard 6 x4 BS.

    Two issues with coolant pumps on bandsaws;

    No matter how well you filter the return fluid, some fine metallic sludge seems to get back. Then if the pump has any magnets in it the sludge will stick to the magnetic part and eventually stall the motor. This is what I found using both an aquarium and a water feature pump which use a permanent magnet rotors. Without any filtering the motor would stop within a couple of weeks so I put a fine mesh and REE magnet filters which increased the maintenance time to a few months.

    The next thing is the pumps need to be able to run a long time - somewhat longer than it would take to fuel up an RC vehicle. So you need to make sure the pump can run continuously for many minutes. Aquarium pumps are really good for this apart from the magnetic

    I ended up using an AC washing machine pump for my BShas been cleaned since I installed in about 5 year ago.

    Interestingly the water feature pump (also with a permanent magnet rotor) on my lathe coolant loop hasn't needed cleaning in 10 years. The same pump when used on the BS clogs very quickly.

    I can really recommend using a full width/length coolant capture/swarf tray other wise both things will end up all over the floor. If you only catch the coolant near the blade when you lift the arm up coolant will dribble off the back of the arm. for the fluid.

    IMG_6155.jpg
    Totally agree on those pumps attracting magnetic particles as I've tried them and I've owned the model aircraft pumps and nowhere near enough flow.

    I'm using a standard coolant pump setup from H&F and has been running for 15 years without a problem.

    Bollie on here (Peter) bought just a pump about 6 months ago from AliExpress, it was only around $90 delivered without tank etc.

    Even though I am using a commercial pump, I run a ring magnet from an old speaker around my main drain were most of swarf gets caught, it then runs into a tube which feeds into a black fuel funnel from Supercheap etc.

    The funnel has a peice of flyscreen in it to catch aluminium and plastic etc that is not magnetised, then there is another ring speaker magnet under that sitting on ridge in the funnel.

    I've never had a problem with any swarf getting through, but the commercial pumps are not magnetic like pond pumps etc.


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  10. #10
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    Please consider the following.

    Maybe just small points,but compare some of the the specifications of the BS4 and the Total Tools unit. Both are around the same price $500.

    The net weight of the H&F BS4 is 65Kg and net weight of the TT model is 51 Kgs.

    The H &F Jaw opening is 100 x 150 while the TT model is stated at 100 x 140.The 10mm less jaw opening could be important at some point.

    I am curious enough to ask where that 15kgs went.?

    I question that if that the 20% weight was saved in cast iron metal thickness, would this effect the rigidity or other capabilities of the machine?

    Points to ponder on.

    Grahame

  11. #11
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    Default

    Another point to ponder- the BS-5S swivelling head BS is made in Taiwan. The other one is made in China.
    Chris

  12. #12
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    I’m not sure I understand what all the fuss about returning it zero is about. Takes a couple of minutes with a protractor to set the cut angle, and then a couple of minutes at the end of the job to return it to zero (or 90 depending on how you think about it before anyone slays me on terminology) with a small square. Very few people here are running a repetition job shop that requires those five minutes elsewhere to be more productive.
    Personally, I would be more likely to complain about the fact that tilting the vice vs the head means you have the work sticking out across the workshop being a P.I.T.A, especially so in a small workspace like I have.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    I need to be able to do accurate and neat cuts at 45 & 22.5 degrees on 50x50x3 RHS.
    Thats Ok for RHS but !!

    Angle section can be a pain in the whats it, when the cutting opposite hand. It is a section profile that does not lend itself well to flipping over and cutting the reverse side.

    It is possible to make a frame to place in the jaws to reverse the cut angle.

    With the standard BS-4 (and similar clones) the angled cut starts from nothing at the inboard end of the vice jaw and runs out to the blade- giving the cut angle set by the adjusted rear vice jaw.

    For the opposite hand cut in angle section ,the inserted fabricated frame changes the layout to reverse that above making it possible to cut angle sections to 22.5 and 45 degrees. A separate frame is needed for both 22.5 and and 45 degree versions.

    Clear as mud.?

    Please some kind soul, post a photo of said frame.

    There's a big difference in dollars between BS-4 and BS -5. saws so and the small investment in fabbing a couple of frames can save a lot of money.

    In the end it down to budget.

    Grahame

  14. #14
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    I just use a short of SHS to clamp angle, nothing more complicated is required.

  15. #15
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    Hi Guys,

    There was a picture posted, I think by Steve (OxxAndBert) of one that he made from some steel bar !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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