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Thread: Bandsaw blade tolerance
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7th Apr 2021, 08:25 AM #1Member
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Bandsaw blade tolerance
G'day all,
I have a Rong Fu bandsaw and I'm looking to replace the standard carbon blade with some bi-metal ones.
The standard blade length is 1635mm, however these seem a bit hard to locate 'off the shelf' and will probably need custom made ones. There seem to be plenty of blades available 'off the shelf' at 1638mm though.
My newbie question is, is there enough leeway within the machine to take a blade that is 3mm longer, or is it strictly suited for the original specified size?
Thanks for looking,
Steve
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7th Apr 2021, 09:14 AM #2Diamond Member
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Hi,
With your 1635mm bandsaw blade fitted to the saw how much adjustment do you left ? - I would imagine that there would still be a fair bit left. You are only talking 3mm difference and essentially the adjustment is only going to have to move 1.5mm because it's taking the 3mm up over both sides (correct me if I'm wrong on that guys). I don't know what Rong Fu saw you have so I don't know what width your blade is, but I googled 1635mm bandsaw blade and this is just a few of the results that I got https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/ma...3-1635-14.html and Buy Trademaster Bandsaw Blade 13 X 1635mm - 14 Tpi Bi-metal Online | CDA Eastland (cdaets.com.au) and https://www.refast.com.au/saw-blades/bandsaw-blades/ .All The Best steran50 Stewart
The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.
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7th Apr 2021, 09:27 AM #3Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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On my Rong Fu I use 1645 mm blades.
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7th Apr 2021, 07:04 PM #4
Hi Guys,
On my 6X4 the blade length is nominally 64.5" inches. But there is easily enough adjustment to go to 65" or even 65.5" inches.
I've also discovered that "Toolstation" here in the UK do a replacement 64.5" 14 tooth Carbon blade for £6.28p. Which is almost half the price of the last one I bought.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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7th Apr 2021, 08:45 PM #5
Hi Steve,
The company I buy my bandsaw blades through, can probably help you with made to specified length.
They supply all sorts of bandsaw blades to all sorts of Industries.
Best part is that they will do small orders for fellas like us. They deal in quality European brands.
They make bandsaw blades up off a bulk rolls and weld them.
A slightly shorter 1635mm, should not be a problem.
You do have to buy 2 off them though!
I phoned them a few weeks back and they said the price has not gone up. If I recall when I purchased the last lot of 2 which were 1638mm
BM 12 x 0.5 x 24 point the whole shooting match with postage and tax cost be $75 -for 2 off.
You can get the other pitches as well.
Thats not too shabby when compared against the other Bimetal blade prices I have seen .
I would add that they include in the packaging, an instruction / reminder? to run the blades in.
The girls on the switchboard are helpful and know their products very well,so if you are unsure any aspect,just ring em up.
Website details are:
https://www.unitedproducts.com.au/
I hope it helps you.
Grahame
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8th Apr 2021, 06:11 AM #6Most Valued Member
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Take the blade off the saw, wind the adjustment all the way in so the wheels are at the closest. Use a dress makers tape or piece of string and measure total length. Wind the adjustment all the way out so the wheels are at the furthest and measure that.
Any blade that falls between the two measurements will work.
I wrote the two measurements for mine inside the blade cover
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9th Apr 2021, 08:11 PM #7Member
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G'day everyone and my apologies for the late reply, I've been assembling a 'flat pack' shed .
Thanks for the recommendations, I'll chase them up.
As embarrassing as this is, I haven't actually assembled the bandsaw yet, so I don't know how much adjustment is available. It is a RF128 HDR (swivel head) and takes the same blade as the RF128 (fixed head) 12.7W x 1635L x 0.65mm.
I was thinking that a couple of variable pitch blades would offer a bit more flexibility and not require having as many blades on hand, but I'm happy to be corrected on that.
Thanks again,
Steve.
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11th Apr 2021, 08:15 PM #8Member
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Sorry to reply to my own post , but here goes.
I've checked the links provided, thankyou, but this has now sown the seed of some more newb questions.
I've read that bi-metal blades have a longer life than carbon blades (with equal operator treatment of course). I envisage that I'll be cutting mainly steel and aluminium, possibly with some plastic occasionally.
Are bi-metal blades able to be used on a variety of material, or are they better suited to steel?
I was thinking of getting 3 variable pitch bi-metal blades, being a 6/10, 10/14 & 14/18. Would these covers most scenarios, or would I be better served with 'single TPI' blades?
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Steve.
P.S. on a positive note. I've got my flat pack shed to 'lock up stage', so I've started moving the crap out of the main shed, which I'm planning on making into a workshop .Last edited by Lovey71; 11th Apr 2021 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Extra info and question.
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11th Apr 2021, 09:39 PM #9Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I use 6-10 and 10 -14.
The 10-14 (average is 12 TPI) means the tooth spacing is nominally 2mm. Theoretically this means to meet the minimum of 3 teeth in the material that no less than 6mm thick material can be cut. As I mainly use my BS to cut rod and bar bigger thicker 6mm This is OK. However, occasionally I cut 1.6mm thick SHS and to get around the TPI problem I place a piece of scrap tubing or piece of wood in the cut.
If you cut a lot of thin wall tubing I would look getting a dedicated 24TPI blade (Teeth ~1mm apart so two walled tube is 3.2mm and you would have nominally 3 teeth in the cut)
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11th Apr 2021, 11:19 PM #10Most Valued Member
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Bi-Metal is just marketing spin for we didn’t make the rest of of the blade out of the same material we made the teeth. As for whether or not you get extra life out of a Bi Metal depends on several things, firstly you using and maintaining the machine correctly (appropriate number of teeth in the cut, tension adjustment etc). Secondly what material you are cutting (used railway track and stainless are harsh on all blades). Thirdly, what the blade teeth are actually made of, if you buy a vari pitch m42 cobalt/high speed steel toothed blade you may very well see extended life over a carbon steel blade, or if the first point is not observed, you may very well knock it’s teeth off and destroy it first use. Be mindful that a carbon steel tooth set on a mild steel backing still counts as ‘Bimetal’ as much as M42 attached to a spring steel backer.. Bimetal cutting consumables are a piece of marketing genius that stemmed from manufacturers looking to reduce cost that now have a cult like following as being vastly superior because of the exceptional marketing over the last twenty years.
I’ve been down the path of expensive Bimetallic blades and when you inadvertently knock the teeth off within the the first half dozen uses you generally find yourself asking what the point is of buying exotic blades in the first place when the last carbon blade survived twenty times longer.
I buy carbon steel blades because I can have three spares on a hook and still have coin left over on what a Bimetal blade costs (I also don’t kick the bandsaw as much when I damage a blade accidentally).
I keep a couple of 10/14 vari pitch blades for cutting structural and turning stock, and have a couple of 24 tooth constant count blades on the hook for thinner material. When you buy blades, buy a couple of extras because you never damage the only blade you need to use at 8am on Monday morning with the supplier five minutes away.
Hope that helps
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12th Apr 2021, 09:44 AM #11Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I'm the reverse. Although I use a coolant lube system, carbon blades were only lasting me between 3 and 6 months. I went through several dozen carbon blades before I bought my first bimetal 10-14 about 2.5 years ago, and it still cuts. I also cut some stainless with it but it work hardened the cuts in stock bigger than about 25mm. I then bought my second bimetal (6-10) and it cuts stainless without work hardening up to about 40 mm. Both these blADES were made up for me by a local saw doctor who only uses quality stock.
BTW last friday (from another saw doctor) I bought 2 bimetal blades (1TPI x 50 mm wide by 5325mm long) for a wood band sawmill. You would think that quality bimetal blades that big would cost a bomb but they only cost $189 ea. Previously we have bought the same blades from Henry brothers in Sydney but they charge a bit more plus there's significant freight charge even thought they do manage to twist/fold/tie these blades into an an amazingly small package.
Unfolding such a coiled up blade is not for the faint hearted as they have a strong tendency to "SPROING" open and you don't want to be anywhere near the teeth during that time. I was wearing short leather gloves and a sturdy leather apron but 3 teeth did manage to put "claw' marks across my right forearm that were slight less than needing stitches. Next time, if there is one, long welding gloves will be employed.
Folding and opening 3 looped coils of these big blades also took a bit of practice. Although I can do without gloves I do usually wear them, I stand the blade upright and stand inside the blade with boots apart on the blade at the 5 and 7 o'clock position and arms at the 10 and 2 position. Then perform a twisting/turning/bending motion with the arms and step off the band and the blade spring into the triple coil. The reverse is potentially nastier. You have to hold the blade with the teeth towards you to start the uncoiling as when it springs open it'll be the back of the blade that might hit your legs rather than the teeth. Even though the back of the blade is smooth and rounded one time it struck my right shin with enough force to break skin.
I have been on/off operating that mill in a Tree loppers yard using bimetal blades for about 6 years and as we cut mainly urban trees, nails and other embedded metal objects can be a problem. I would have thought that a big bimetal blade would make short work of soft iron nails which they do cut through easily but just round over the tips of the teeth enough to virtually stop wood cutting. I suspect it's the relatively high speed that a wood cutting blade runs at that does it. Luckily we have a nice semi auto band saw sharpener. I have thought of using the sharpener on the carbon 6TPI blade I have for the 6x4, but these blades is too narrow (min is 19mm) to sit properly in the sharpener.
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