Thread: New Stand for BS-5 Band saw

Hi Guys,
I have been looking at my BS-5 and have wanted to make a decent stand for it since I bought it.
Its a bit of a pain, as the cast sides of the base is cantered over 5°.

Have been going over options on making the stand top to match the bandsaw base, but have not found a 'eureka' option. Every option seems to be more difficult than it should....lol

Anyone got any ideas?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eJdSQo7fbicyM6ZFA

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cuzBnrPHAdFbFdeo7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LQ6cUuhJjMY1typy7

Steve

Hi Steve, When I did mine I made a frame from 50X50X3 angle with swivel castors on the corners. The back end where the motor sits was splayed back to allow for counter balance, I used 25X5 flat bar cut and drilled with 8mm bolts, then bolted the flat bar to the saw and tack welded to the frame.
My base was made about 300 wide, it should have been about 400 wide as when I sit on it to use as a vertical, it can be a bit unsteady.
To minimise the swarf on the floor, I also made a square funnel out of 50mmX1.6 rhs cut so that it formed a channel that was then shaped into a "Y" shape, and attached under the blade, so that most of the swarf would drop into the funnel and into a bucket placed on the base of the saw.
Will try to remember to get some pics of it all, when I go back to work Monday.
Kryn

Originally Posted by Sterob

Hi Guys,
I have been looking at my BS-5 and have wanted to make a decent stand for it since I bought it.
Its a bit of a pain, as the cast sides of the base is cantered over 5°.

Have been going over options on making the stand top to match the bandsaw base, but have not found a 'eureka' option. Every option seems to be more difficult than it should....lol

Anyone got any ideas?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eJdSQo7fbicyM6ZFA

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cuzBnrPHAdFbFdeo7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LQ6cUuhJjMY1typy7

Steve

Hi Steve,

Here are pictures of mine, there should be a drawing as well somewhere ! I thought that I had posted it. If I can find it I will add it to this post.

22-09-2019-001.jpg 22-09-2019-002.JPG 20-09-2019_002.JPG 27-09-2019-001.jpg

Bandsaw stand-01.jpg
I've just recreated a jpg file from the original DXF file. The dimensions are hard to read so if you want them I can read them from the DXF,

My plan when I get to it is just to weld tabs at the appropriate angle to an RHS frame.

I can highly recommend a some sort of swarf catching arrangement/tray and if you are thinking of possibly adding lube/coolant at some future time make sure that tray can catch all the drips including from the back of the saw when the main arms is lifted into the vertical position (otherwise a whole puddle of coolant forms on the floor). A tray closer to ground level to locate the lube/coolant pump/tank is also worth incorporating.

One think I noticed about most bandsaw stands is that they are too low so when I added the scarf tray I took the opportunity to jack the saw up by about 65 mm - makes it a lot easier to see what's going on.

When I bought my then already 30 year old BS4 it was a bit of a Frankensaw.
The motor was a teeny 1/4HP (not the original) and the original stand had also been modified by the owner by (badly/crooked) welding in the lower tray but it turned out to be good enough to support the lube/coolant pump I added.
As well as the lube/coolant system;
- replaced the old wobbly wheels - not sure if even the old ones were originals
- added a stainless swarf/lube/coolant catcher tray
- the 1/4Hp motor died after couple of years and it was replaced the motor with a 1/2HP motor.
- all the (starting to crack and fall apart) plastic knobs and handles were replaced with (partially) blued steel toggle handles.
- an extension plate/face was added to the vice which in conjunction with an added jack screw enable much shorter stock to be held in the vice.
- a oil damped plunger was added to control downward cutting speed
- added transparent gear worm box cover
- replaced the main switch with a no volt version.
IMG_6155.jpg

Despite all this it is now so worn out (guides, motor mount and wheels only just hang onto the blade) it does not cut straight.

I'm tossing up whether to spend the time replacing the worn bits or getting a new one.

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Hi Steve, When I did mine I made a frame from 50X50X3 angle with swivel castors on the corners. The back end where the motor sits was splayed back to allow for counter balance, I used 25X5 flat bar cut and drilled with 8mm bolts, then bolted the flat bar to the saw and tack welded to the frame.
My base was made about 300 wide, it should have been about 400 wide as when I sit on it to use as a vertical, it can be a bit unsteady.
To minimise the swarf on the floor, I also made a square funnel out of 50mmX1.6 rhs cut so that it formed a channel that was then shaped into a "Y" shape, and attached under the blade, so that most of the swarf would drop into the funnel and into a bucket placed on the base of the saw.
Will try to remember to get some pics of it all, when I go back to work Monday.
Kryn

Thanks Kryn,
Sounds like a better way to go than what I was going to do.

Steve

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Steve,

Here are pictures of mine, there should be a drawing as well somewhere ! I thought that I had posted it. If I can find it I will add it to this post.

22-09-2019-001.jpg 22-09-2019-002.JPG 20-09-2019_002.JPG 27-09-2019-001.jpg

Bandsaw stand-01.jpg
I've just recreated a jpg file from the original DXF file. The dimensions are hard to read so if you want them I can read them from the DXF,

Thanks John,
That looks pretty good. Not sure I'd use 4 castors. Was thinking of just having 2 wheels that raised when the stand was lowered to the ground.
Extending the rear, for when its raised is a good point too....

Steve

Originally Posted by Sterob

Thanks John,
That looks pretty good. Not sure I'd use 4 castors. Was thinking of just having 2 wheels that raised when the stand was lowered to the ground.
Extending the rear, for when its raised is a good point too....

Steve

Hi Steve, Guys,

I did a WIP thread at the time !
https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t203...aw-acquisition


The castors were two pairs that I got from the "reduced price" box in B&Q, they cost me £10 for them. Two wheels have brakes. It is rock solid and is easily pushed around and locked in place as needed.

I increased the height of the stand before I bought the wheels so the height is 580 mm plus 75 mm the size of the wheels. The bottom of the frame is 666 mm by 400 mm and the top is 180 mm wide. I used off cuts of the square tube for the securing bolts because they were all crooked and the cast iron body is tapered with thickening pads cast around the bolt holes.

Its turned out an ideal height for me. I also put a chip board shelf in the frame at the bottom.

Thanks guys.
I've got some designing to do.
I bought a coolant pump and tank about 5 years ago and its still in the box. I'll have to bust it out and size a shelf for it.

I want a coolant tray. Not sure if I'll make one or source a cheap plastic one ( if they exist. ) I saw one plastic one for $102 at Repco!

Steve

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Steve, Guys,

I did a WIP thread at the time !
https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t203...aw-acquisition

Thanks. I just read through the whole thread!
Some great info in there I have squirreled away....lol

Steve

Originally Posted by Sterob

Thanks guys.
I've got some designing to do.
I bought a coolant pump and tank about 5 years ago and its still in the box. I'll have to bust it out and size a shelf for it.
I want a coolant tray. Not sure if I'll make one or source a cheap plastic one ( if they exist. ) I saw one plastic one for $102 at Repco!
Steve

My SS tray came out of an industrial oven andwas the right width but about 150mm longer than planned - I wanted to keep it that long but I have so little room in the shed I decided to trim it down.
Its not 316 as the REE magnets I use to strain the return coolant stick to it pretty fiercely.

The tray on my larger HAFCO BS is just a folded and welded mild steel affair - painted on the outside and raw inside.
No issues with the tray rusting out etc. SS would be nice but definitely not essential.

I think in general because the surface is all open - the water evaporates out of the residual coolant and leaves the oil behind and stops it rusting.

Steve