Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 41
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Just to wrap this thread up, I've now finished the DRO installation and got the mill back up and running. The last job was to tram the mill head and re-check everything.
    Hi John you have done a gr8 job fitting the dro and attending to the other issues but your work now needs to be tested.
    You need to accurately measure the 3 axis and compare these to the dro readings, you will find that there are inaccurate dro measurements and these need to be adjusted in your parameter settings.
    Linear compensation is what you need to adjust.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Hi John you have done a gr8 job fitting the dro and attending to the other issues but your work now needs to be tested.
    You need to accurately measure the 3 axis and compare these to the dro readings, you will find that there are inaccurate dro measurements and these need to be adjusted in your parameter settings.
    Linear compensation is what you need to adjust.
    Hi John,

    Thanks for the pointer.

    There is nothing in the instruction book about "Linear Compensation" ! Whilst I know what you are talking about, I'm going to have to find out how to perform that adjustment.

    The only measurement that I checked was a four thou cut using the "Z" axis scale, though I didn't check that at different heights. The quill digital readout does seem to correspond to the scale though.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Hi John, Guys,

    Found It ! Right at the back of the "Operations Manual" They call it "Linear Deviation" and mention setting the grating to the standard value, a multiple of 10 mm, using a slip gauge, calculate "known length" minus "Displayed Length" divided by "Actual Length" divided by 1000, this is the correction value that you have to enter in "Lin Comp" then press mm/inch key to save it !

    Then you have to go through the manual to find out how to get at "Lin Comp" !

    Anyway thanks for the push to find this parameter, there is far more to this DRO business than I thought.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi John, Guys,

    Found It ! Right at the back of the "Operations Manual" They call it "Linear Deviation" and mention setting the grating to the standard value, a multiple of 10 mm, using a slip gauge, calculate "known length" minus "Displayed Length" divided by "Actual Length" divided by 1000, this is the correction value that you have to enter in "Lin Comp" then press mm/inch key to save it !

    Then you have to go through the manual to find out how to get at "Lin Comp" !

    Anyway thanks for the push to find this parameter, there is far more to this DRO business than I thought.
    John if you have something that you can accurately measure, maybe 1 2 3 blocks or even parallels, after noting the lengths then measure with the the dro and compare the measurements.
    You need to do this for the 3 axis's, if you are lucky you might not need to adjust the lin comp but at least you will then know that it is right.
    I will also say tho that dro's are not accurate out of the box and adjusting the lin comp is just the last part of the installation.
    Youtoob probably has some vids regarding this.......

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Thanks John,

    I have some 123 blocks that I can use. I'll have a play and report back.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Thumbs up Debris !

    Hi Guys,

    When I stripped the bearings out of the mill quill, I used a plastic food tray and white spirit to remove the grease and muck that was in them. This morning I decided to empty the tray and throw it out. I drained the liquid contents and was surprised to find this amount of debris caught in the bottom of the tray. This lot came from both bearings, nothing else was cleaned in that tray.

    It makes you wonder about the conditions that this machine was assembled in ! No wonder the spindle was tight and felt rough to turn by hand. I would guess that most of this would have been picked up in the grease that was used. No wonder then why the spindle feels better and is quieter than it was before.

    Mill Bearings Debris.jpg
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

    Default

    Obviously the Chinese version of a "clean room" .

    I try to totally avoid anything from mainland China due to their constant threats and standover tactics. Can't be trusted.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    Obviously the Chinese version of a "clean room" .

    I try to totally avoid anything from mainland China due to their constant threats and standover tactics. Can't be trusted.
    Toggy, so I assume that you also don't buy anything from the US of A, England, Israel or any of the NATO countries ?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    With regard to linear compensation - I read about it in the manual and on various web sites/youtube etc and wondered about it, I was able to check for small distances by measuring between two ground pins, one in the chuck and the other in the vice but how to check over long distances ? then I though that I had been using the hand wheel graduations and trusting them for all those years with no issues - so I checked the scales against the hand wheel graduations at various distances up to 10 inches and found the scales and hand wheel graduations agreed within the thickness of the engraved graduation line - I estimate around this to be approx 2 tenths of a thou, which for me was plenty good enough.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Just to finish off the trials and tribulations of fitting my new DRO. It was pointed out that I no longer have access to the table locks because they are hidden behind the glass scale !

    Well I've discovered that it doesn't matter at all ! I can lock the table simply by removing the power to the table traverse and selecting a gear. Even with the backlash the table only moves one minor division, ie 0.02 mm. which in the grand scheme of things isn't bad.

    Thanks for all the comments, help and advice that I've been given, its much appreciated.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Thanks for the link
    I just skipped through and will have a thougher read in the next few days when I have time.

    I found the last comment about gib locks, I couldn't be without mine to lock each axis.

    I'll be posting soon about the extent I went to to combine each pair of gib locks for my knee mill along with limit switches to cut out each axis power feeds as I have power feeds for each axis.

    The gib locks are really needed to make an axis stay in one spot and machine truly to the machines extent.

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
    Using Tapatalk

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    With regard to the lack of gib lock - I guess in the long run you'll find out if it was an ok thing or not, in my case I didn't even contemplate milling with out gib locks, my mill has some back lash in the X and Y screws and from experience I know that if for example milling in the Y direction the mill table can move in the X direction and vice versa. I had just milled a slot and the piece intended for the slot was a bit too sloppy at one end - a quick check with calipers and I realised the sides of the slot weren't parallel but slightly tapered.
    I made up a gib lock bolt with a lever welded to the head - one end of a rod attached to a hole in the end of the gib lock lever and the other end of the rod attached to a lever that was fixed(pivoted) on the outboard end of the mill table, push/pull on the lever locked or unlocked the table.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Hi FamilyGuy, Guys,

    You might recall in post 7 I mentioned that I had adjusted the table leadscrew nut for minimum backlash without making the table leadscrew difficult to turn. The M4 adjusting screws from the nut were loose rolling around in the cavity under the mill. I can only rotate the hand wheel two divisions before I can feel the resistance to the table moving. Sorting out the bend in the gib strip helped with a more smooth table movement as well.

    The DRO is a terrific aid to getting things in the right place ! To think that I've spent hours counting divisions and handle winding.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I guess your mill is much younger than mine and so has a lot less wear, made in Sweden mine is very well made and engineered, but is probably around 60yrs old, the main thing is that you are happy with the end result.
    I agree with your comments about the DRO, I almost never use the rotary table to locate holes around a diameter, the circle hole function is much quicker, once you get your head around the not so great instructions, I even used it to make a toothed belt drive pulley, drilled the centre hole and then the holes around the diameter that are the spaces between the teeth, transfer to the lathe mounted on a boss and turn away the excess material to reveal the teeth - equally spaced holes in a straight line is just as easy, I've made a few guitar amp turret boards this way. The inbuilt calculator is ok but I find it easier to pick up a scientific calculator I use in the workshop.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,444

    Default

    Hi FamilyGuy,

    Yes my mill is much younger at only eight or nine years old !

    Trying to get my head around all the different functions is a nightmare ! The way I'm attacking it is to understand just the few functions that I need at that particular time, particularly as I will have forgotten how to do something within a day or so unless I keep using it.

    I did have a try at the hole circle function but couldn't get my head around it, I used a pencil in the chuck but didn't get a circle ! More a bent staircase line. The Chinglish doesn't help either.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •