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  1. #1
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    Default Lathe Mains Isolating Switch

    The control circuit for my AL-335 stays powered up, even when the lathe is off. I have to unplug it everytime I stiop using it.

    I am thinking of wiring in an Isolator Switch.

    Something like this...maybe a bit smaller.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/sAbFB9ngP7S1DW9z7

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/63ETMJXz8kiTDgwB9

    Was thinking of mounting it on top of the Headstock within easy reach. Would have make sure the end cover can still removed.....
    Not keen on have cables draped across the top of the lathe though

    Anyone else done anything similar?

    Steve

  2. #2
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    Nov 2007
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    Default

    The problem with that isolator is it won’t drop out if the power fails. So if you don’t switch off the lathe after a power failure the lathe will fire up again when the power returns. A no volt release (NVR) switch will prevent this.
    Chris

  3. #3
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    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Default

    If you put it on a bracket on the left side of the tray you could run the cables in conduit under the tray to the back. I did the forward and reverse switch for my Hercus that way.

  4. #4
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    Default

    I have had this switch to fit to mine for a while now, I plan on mounting it straight into the side of electrical cabinet.
    This way if you interupt the incoming power supply, all the factory saftey lockouts/magnetic switches work, and you know the power is off to the lathe.
    I bought it at about half the price from AliExpress some years ago.
    You can't rush these things, lol
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    The problem with that isolator is it won’t drop out if the power fails. So if you don’t switch off the lathe after a power failure the lathe will fire up again when the power returns. A no volt release (NVR) switch will prevent this.
    Ahh... a safety feature befitting the same type of folk who slice themselves open when replacing the flat battery on a cordless angle grinder...
    Like, it's not nice to wish on someone, but the world is better off with 'less dumb'.

    There are 240V / 415V rotary switches with inbuilt LO/TO lock or hasp slots if one wanted to be 'ultimately safe'.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Default

    Steve rather than bypassing the problem with another switch why don't you try to fix the actual problem?

    You can find the electrical diagram here https://images.machineryhouse.com.au...n%20Manual.pdf

    The circuit for a single phase model is on page 20, the list for the electrical components is on page 19.

    Maybe test QF1 for a start as that looks to be the mains switch.

  7. #7
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    melbourne australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post
    Ahh... a safety feature befitting the same type of folk who slice themselves open when replacing the flat battery on a cordless angle grinder...
    Are you kidding? Nearly any industrial fixed machine capable of inflicting injury will have NVR protection. Would you advocate not having emergency stops on a lathe? I mean, no competent metalworker would ever put his hands or clothing near the chuck would he?
    Chris

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Steve rather than bypassing the problem with another switch why don't you try to fix the actual problem?

    You can find the electrical diagram here https://images.machineryhouse.com.au...n%20Manual.pdf

    The circuit for a single phase model is on page 20, the list for the electrical components is on page 19.

    Maybe test QF1 for a start as that looks to be the mains switch.
    I'd agree with that.
    Unless that switch is faulty and not opening when switched off, or someone has already bypassed it then there is no way the control circuit can have power.

    Really dumb question - but its not a case of that switch being hidden around the back of the lathe is it?
    I know on my Takisawa lathe there is an industrial style rotary switch at the main connection point behind the lathe.

    Edit: I looked up the base P/N (DZ-47-63) for that QF1 switch and its a circuit breaker style like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2P-63A-4...-/333139078966

    Turning that off should kill power to everything in the lathe.

    Steve
    Last edited by OxxAndBert; 4th Feb 2021 at 10:14 PM. Reason: More info

  9. #9
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    Toorloo Arm, VIC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    The control circuit for my AL-335 stays powered up, even when the lathe is off. I have to unplug it everytime I stiop using it.
    Hang on - please explain? Are you saying that if you switch the powerpoint off, the green light on the front stays lit up? Or is it that you have it plugged into a powerpoint that doesn't have a switch? More details please...

    I'm assuming we're talking AL335 as in this model: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/l183 and not an earlier variant?

  10. #10
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Was thinking of mounting it on top of the Headstock within easy reach. Would have make sure the end cover can still removed.....
    Not keen on have cables draped across the top of the lathe though
    I haven't done it but how about below the coolant tray? You are only going to want it twice a day right?


    The lathe likely already has NVR(mine does but it's not from H&F. H&F have been know to leave things out, for example it would appear QF1 is missing or we wouldn't need this thread right??)

    J&H I think Steve just wants a way to turn the 24V control transformer off(and with that the green light) without having to "switch it off at the wall/unplug"

  11. #11
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    Dec 2018
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    NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Are you kidding? Nearly any industrial fixed machine capable of inflicting injury will have NVR protection. Would you advocate not having emergency stops on a lathe? I mean, no competent metalworker would ever put his hands or clothing near the chuck would he?
    I think we are on the same page-
    "Nearly any" = But some won't.
    Emergency stops- not what I said, so hold them horses on that allegation.
    "Competent metalworker" - well... not everyone is.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    Hang on - please explain? Are you saying that if you switch the powerpoint off, the green light on the front stays lit up? Or is it that you have it plugged into a powerpoint that doesn't have a switch? More details please...

    I'm assuming we're talking AL335 as in this model: https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/l183 and not an earlier variant?
    The real point lives here. OP is a bit vague. EG - The most humble of ovens has the control display / clock on, but until you actually screw about with the controls, there is no risk of burning your brownies
    I think OP is confused between the lathe being on (and turning), and the ability to lockout the control interface. The former is via machine control panel, the latter is via wall outlet. If outlet is awkward to get to, then install a more accessible switch . And if for some reason it has been hard wired, then perhaps sparky (assuming one was involved) should have put a suitable isolating switch in there to begin with?

    Designers and resellers of equipment in Australia can be liable under WHS law where a design causes a health safety injury to a PCBU (AKA person). An easily relatable example may be selling a piece of sawmilling equipment with no handrails on the gantry, or exposed gears / belts which could be a risk of entanglement.
    As a generality, when you buy cheap, you get the minimum viable features- this is FACT. And this is where my personal opinion comes into it - within this framework / WHS controls, when someone does something dumb, they need to own their mistakes.
    I heard of a mining incident- 2 blokes underground and a generator. First guy touches the metal genset casing and gets a mild zap. Reports to supervisor. Supervisor investigates, touches genset case, and also gets zapped. Stupidity breeds stupidity.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Mine is a toolex lathe, but as soon as it's turned on at the power point you hear the contactor pull in.

    It stays this way no matter whether you push the emergency stop etc it stays on until turned off at the power point.

    So the only way to switch it off completely is to add a switch on the incoming power.
    Otherwise over time I'm sure you will wear out the contactor running it 24-7, and also be using standby power even though it would be minimal.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post
    I think OP is confused between the lathe being on (and turning), and the ability to lockout the control interface.
    I was confused about that too. Upon re-reading the original post I think he just wants to de-power the control panel as others have said. I miss-read it as the lathe stays running when he tries to stop it. So I think the contactor he linked would be fine. I have something similar to de-power my lathe's VFD when I'm done for the day. Mine's mounted to the wall behind the lathe (small lathe).
    Chris

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Not keen on have cables draped across the top of the lathe though
    Steve
    Probably the easiest thing you could do is bolt a length of shs to the side of the electrical cabinet with the top of the shs at the height that you want the switch, run the power through the shs and into the electrical cabinet.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Probably the easiest thing you could do is bolt a length of shs to the side of the electrical cabinet with the top of the shs at the height that you want the switch, run the power through the shs and into the electrical cabinet.
    And you could plastic push on caps to cover the ends. All the metal places sell them for a few dollars
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