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  1. #76
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    Hi Mike, Guys,

    Do as I've suggested to someone else, use some 1/2" inch thick conveyor belting under the lathe ! The rubber will give and provide a solid surface that will adsorb any small irregularities and vibration.

    If its wide enough nicer to stand on in cold weather !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #77
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    Mar 2014
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    South of Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Mike, Guys,

    Do as I've suggested to someone else, use some 1/2" inch thick conveyor belting under the lathe ! The rubber will give and provide a solid surface that will adsorb any small irregularities and vibration.

    If its wide enough nicer to stand on in cold weather !
    conveyor belt is no where near solid, and is completely unsuitable to put a lathe on, it is far to elastic for the lathe to maintain level. I have similar size lathe on a very poor 4" thick slab and have had no issues. 1.6T might sound heavy to you hobby blokes but in a industrial setting that is a small machine.

  3. #78
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    Sep 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by snapatap View Post
    conveyor belt is no where near solid, and is completely unsuitable to put a lathe on, it is far to elastic for the lathe to maintain level. I have similar size lathe on a very poor 4" thick slab and have had no issues. 1.6T might sound heavy to you hobby blokes but in a industrial setting that is a small machine.
    Hi Snapatap,

    Forgive me for disagreeing with you ! But the fact that it isn't solid as you put it, is exactly why it is good for the job. It gives enough to take up the roughness of a concrete floor, and provides a cushion for the machine's feet and provides some insulation from the cold and damp rising up from the floor in addition to being easy to clean.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #79
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    Mar 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Snapatap,

    Forgive me for disagreeing with you ! But the fact that it isn't solid as you put it, is exactly why it is good for the job. It gives enough to take up the roughness of a concrete floor, and provides a cushion for the machine's feet and provides some insulation from the cold and damp rising up from the floor in addition to being easy to clean.
    A non monolithic machine tool like a lathe needs to sit on a solid base to maintain accuracy. Rubber under the feet will work like a spring and continually move under the dynamic loads of machining, not what you want on a lathe.

    I if the concrete floor is that rough that a 75mm foot wont sit with reasonable contact the floor needs repair, either grinding or filling with leveling compound.

    I'm responsible for about 20 machines at work and 12 at home, never had a issue with "cold and damp" rising up from the floor, they are iron machine tools not timber cabinets.

  5. #80
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    My little hurcus has wooden riser blocks between the lathe and cabinet, if i need to cut something parallel on it i can tighten or loosen one of the mounting bolts at the tailstock end and get a reasonable job out of it, yeah i know maybe that is slack but it is quick and it works.
    On the other hand my macson is about 1200 kgs and my cl410 1650kgs, they have cast iron bases and the adjustment bolts sit in steel plates sat onto the concrete, once adjusted they seem to stay reasonably level.
    If you were to be punishing these lathes with large out of balance jobs or even fast starting and stopping with larger chucks then they really need footings with allthread to hold them down.
    I think Mike probably should chisel up the tiles where it is going to sit.

  6. #81
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    Sep 2012
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    Hi Snapatap,

    My reference to ""cold and damp" rising up from the floor" was in relation to your feet being stood on a cold floor in winter !

    But I do take your point !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #82
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    Jun 2020
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    Freo
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    I think Mike probably should chisel up the tiles where it is going to sit.
    given all the chatter going on i most likely will do that.

  8. #83
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldbuggermike View Post
    given all the chatter going on i most likely will do that.
    Just a thought if you would like to save your tiles. You could go with the steel plates mentioned earlier under each adjusting screw. In an old manual for setting up a 13x42 DSG I have, the manufacturers suggest either cast iron plates or steel plates 1" thick and 9"square for each footing, but even 1/2" or 5/8" would probably do with a sheet of thin, say 3mm thick plastic like HDPE, polycarbonate or any number of engineering plastics under the steel plate to conform to the tiled surface. Even sheet lead as in flashing might do it, I doubt that any normal use of the lathe would produce enough pounding to squeeze the lead out. If you see any buildings going up nearby using concrete tilt panels, they will have a large number of assorted packers, about 100 x 150mm and ranging in thickness from 1mm to 20mm thick. they use these to shim the panels vertical and if you asked the builder nicely they would likely give you a handful. If I had to guess, I think they might be made of PVC, but whatever it is, it is pretty sound material. Good luck with it, plenty of us here would like to have your problem.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    Just a thought if you would like to save your tiles. You could go with the steel plates mentioned earlier under each adjusting screw. In an old manual for setting up a 13x42 DSG I have, the manufacturers suggest either cast iron plates or steel plates 1" thick and 9"square for each footing, but even 1/2" or 5/8" would probably do with a sheet of thin, say 3mm thick plastic like HDPE, polycarbonate or any number of engineering plastics under the steel plate to conform to the tiled surface. Even sheet lead as in flashing might do it, I doubt that any normal use of the lathe would produce enough pounding to squeeze the lead out. If you see any buildings going up nearby using concrete tilt panels, they will have a large number of assorted packers, about 100 x 150mm and ranging in thickness from 1mm to 20mm thick. they use these to shim the panels vertical and if you asked the builder nicely they would likely give you a handful. If I had to guess, I think they might be made of PVC, but whatever it is, it is pretty sound material. Good luck with it, plenty of us here would like to have your problem.
    You do tempt me to see how it performs on a base over the tiles. I have a big CNC router over at a mates place so went over there and cut 6 discs from 1/2" uhmwpe and will cut some discs out of some 6mm butyl rubber that i have somewhere. Try it and see if the tiles survive and the performance of the lathe is good. Can always remove the tiles later if not happy. This is all assuming that the tiles survive the skates running over them with the weight on them. They survived the mill but that was less than a ton by the time i stripped it down.

    IMG_20210621_160230.jpg

  10. #85
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldbuggermike View Post
    You do tempt me to see how it performs on a base over the tiles. I have a big CNC router over at a mates place so went over there and cut 6 discs from 1/2" uhmwpe and will cut some discs out of some 6mm butyl rubber that i have somewhere. Try it and see if the tiles survive and the performance of the lathe is good. Can always remove the tiles later if not happy. This is all assuming that the tiles survive the skates running over them with the weight on them. They survived the mill but that was less than a ton by the time i stripped it down.

    IMG_20210621_160230.jpg
    Mike if you have any hair you probably won't have any after you try to level the lathe with your machinists level, the feet need to be on a solid surface as snapatap mentioned earlier or else you will be chasing your tail, even if you do get it level it might not remain that way.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Mike if you have any hair you probably won't have any after you try to level the lathe with your machinists level, the feet need to be on a solid surface as snapatap mentioned earlier or else you will be chasing your tail, even if you do get it level it might not remain that way.
    yeah i would skip the rubber but the uhmwpe is probably solid enough to get the lathe level and stable, but soft enough to conform slightly to the tiles.

  12. #87
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    Jun 2020
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    Thursday came and the move was on.
    Bloody hard work on pavers, they sink a bit and not fun. Put down some old flooring helped a lot. The lathe was facing the wrong way so had to turn it and then off to the shed. 3.5 hours to go less than 30 meters with 1 big corner. had to take off the 8 position gear lever and the oil tank and its pressure pump off the back so lots of oil escaped and liked to slosh out a bit when it was moved so oil everywhere. About 40mm clearance through the door, heaps . Reassembly can wait until tomorrow

    IMG_20210624_121206.jpg IMG_20210624_121418.jpgIMG_20210624_121739.jpgIMG_20210624_123033.jpg

  13. #88
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    Its all reassembled, in position and leveled. Its a bit squeezy but that's one of the joys of a 30sqM shed.
    There is a whopping 15mm clearance between the splash guard and the mill's ram, all part of the plan .
    I added a 4 way power box to the lathe so i have power in the middle of the room and now no extension cord for the mill.
    Don't ya love it when a plan comes together. Just need to get some power too it now.
    MmsCamera_2021-07-03-10-48-48.jpg MmsCamera_2021-07-03-10-15-18.jpg MmsCamera_2021-07-03-10-13-53.jpg

  14. #89
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    All wired up and running
    First cut is on some big high tensile stud material that i get from a mate. Quite tough but machines nice. Does anyone have any idea what the metal may be ?
    First mess on the floor . My magnetic floor broom is a tad too wide to go down the narrow gap between the lathe and the drawers, can shorten the axle a little should make it fit
    That's about the end of this exciting thread i suppose.

    MmsCamera_2021-07-04-14-59-14.jpg MmsCamera_2021-07-04-17-00-47.jpg MmsCamera_2021-07-04-17-01-17.jpg

  15. #90
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    That stud would be an equivalent of 4140. For mass produced items the material composition is often varied to get the best cost/physical properties for the application, so the material may not line up exactly with a standard grade.

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