Thread: Importing a lathe to Aus

Originally Posted by oldbuggermike

25% of $40,000 is quite a bit

Just a touch over $9,999.99

Any particular reason you want that specific machine? I'm assuming it's the fancy CNC leadscrew

Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde

For the life of me I can't find the other Aussie suppliers of that machine - I've looked at it before, and thought it was a very nice machine if you didn't need a big envelope and were in the market for a quality brand new machine. I'm sure Whitelaw weren't the only ones selling it, I thought maybe ESP in Melbourne had them as well, but they don't seem to be on their website... Could have sworn someone in Melbourne had them on their website...

I also thought someone in Melbourne had them as well. There is also this -

https://www.absolutemachinetools.com/

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Any particular reason you want that specific machine? I'm assuming it's the fancy CNC leadscrew

That and the 4,000 RPM for very small diameters

Originally Posted by oldbuggermike

25% of $40,000 is quite a bit

so the lathe you ae interested in retails in AUS for around $45,000. 35% is an approximate $16k saving.
10% GST will bring the price to around $32k.

You should be able to get it off the ship, off the wharf and out of the clutches of the stevedores for around $4k (including GST).

So as a ball park estimate, your lathe would cost you around $36k on a truck at your shed door.


To which you need to add:
costs of renting the materials handling equipment (e.g. fork lift) needed to place the lathe in your shed.
cost to return the 20 ft container to the depot. Say $300.
additional cost of what you consider being the essential spare parts for the lathe -- importantly including software support.


Then ask yourself
is the absence of local support -- because you self-imported the lathe -- a big enough "gotcha" to justify paying an approx additional $8k for the lathe.

Grizzly likes the lathe - and they slapped a South Bend badge on it. Looks exactly the same one.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/sou...t-lathe/sb1009

Didn't know anyone else was doing Hardinge clones

Originally Posted by ian

so the lathe you ae interested in retails in AUS for around $45,000. 35% is an approximate $16k saving.
10% GST will bring the price to around $32k.


So as a ball park estimate, your lathe would cost you around $36k on a truck at your shed door.


To which you need to add:
costs of renting the materials handling equipment (e.g. fork lift) needed to place the lathe in your shed.
cost to return the 20 ft container to the depot. Say $300.
additional cost of what you consider being the essential spare parts for the lathe -- importantly including software support.


Then ask yourself
is the absence of local support -- because you self-imported the lathe -- a big enough "gotcha" to justify paying an approx additional $8k for the lathe.

I almost went this route but found a very nice used Schaublin 102 here. Definitely not the level of these but will do the job. Don't overlook additional charges also don't underestimate 'shipping' cost and in this case, real shipping.

A bit OT:
I presume that Hardinge style 'CNC ball-leadscrew-feedcsrew' lathe can also be used in pure manual mode. If so, does the saddle travel handwheel operate the traditional pinion-rack sliding feed, or is the handwheel mechanically linked to the leadscrew for manual ops?

Reason for this question: I have a (very slow) lathe rebuild underway and am thinking of going to an ELS with ballscrew, but need to work through the re-design of the various parts so that manual operation is easily available, (and with the leadscrew motor disconnected when in manual mode).

Bill

The handwheel is rack and pinion. Our Schaublin 125 at work has a similar electronic feed system (no CNC threading though) and it uses a single normal leadscrew for both threading and feeding.

Is it possible to buy ballscrew half-nuts? Sounds like is would be a pain to disengage otherwise.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

The handwheel is rack and pinion. Our Schaublin 125 at work has a similar electronic feed system (no CNC threading though) and it uses a single normal leadscrew for both threading and feeding.

Is it possible to buy ballscrew half-nuts? Sounds like is would be a pain to disengage otherwise.

I have no idea, but thinking about it I feel that disengaging may well be possible, but re-engaging may be more difficult.
Perhaps the really clever amongst us might use a rotary encoder to instruct the servo motor/ELS system, but that design is way, way above my pay grade.

But then you lose all feel for what the tool is doing.I use our CNC Cyclematic in manual mode (boring out soft jaws, making test cuts for tool setting, etc.) and it's a very weird feeling that I would not want for proper manual turning.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Didn't know anyone else was doing Hardinge clones

Sharp do one as well but i have never found much info on it. Most of them seem to be rebadged CycleMatics

I used to be indecisive but now i'm not so sure.

It has all become a little moot for as much as i have lusted after a Hardinge since my early 20's i have always and still need something bigger than that. While it would be perfect for 90% of my wants it does, much to my chagrin, fall short for the remainder. I have a couple of friends to thank for repeatedly pointing out the obvious and destroying my lust. If my shed was a little larger i would get it plus a larger size. As it is at this point in time i will most likely admit defeat and get a Sunmaster TC-V 1640 locally, this can be optioned up to near 3,000 rpm so nearly satisfies that desire but i won't have the threading toy to play with .

If i don't change my mind by Monday i will order the Sunmaster and be done with it.

Thanks Elan and Ropetangler,

Originally Posted by elanjacobs
The handwheel is rack and pinion. "

So for manual ops, how is the ballscrew released, or is the screw just forced to rotate (back-driven) as the ball nut is forced to travel? If so, the motor would certainly need to be declutched. Maybe I am missing something.

It's hard to see a half-nut ballscrew working out well (screw would need very accurate location to oppose half-nut loads without losing control of ball to screw clearances.
Anyway, probably best not to stray too far from the original topic.
Bill