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  1. #1
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    Default What Features to look for in a Beginner's Lathe

    All, looking for a new smaller lathe for a beginner, not going to ask the usual "what lathe is best", but would like to know what lathe features you would consider important/criticial/nice or useless.

    I'm considering the tu-3008g opti-turn, it's more than I wanted to spend but don't want to wish I had spent a bit more.


    - Belt drive or Gear quick change Drive (have read that belt is best newbies incase you jam the work)
    -quick change lead screw gearbox?
    -independent lead/feed (think thats what it's called, slower feed than from the threading speed from the half nut)?
    -power cross feed?
    - larger than 26mm spindle bore
    -twin v ways (some only have a single v)?
    -cam lock Chuck?
    -dc variable speed?
    -low spindle speeds (say under 150rpm)?
    -t slots in cross feed bed?

    What featurs would you recomend? (I know there are a bunch that think I should go for a 2nd hand hercus or something, but I really don't want to buy a lemon, or spend the next year rebuilding it etc)

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1down5up View Post

    - Belt drive or Gear quick change Drive (have read that belt is best newbies in case you jam the work)
    -quick change lead screw gearbox?
    -independent lead/feed (think thats what it's called, slower feed than from the threading speed from the half nut)?
    -power cross feed?
    - larger than 26mm spindle bore
    -twin v ways (some only have a single v)?
    -cam lock Chuck?
    -dc variable speed?
    -low spindle speeds (say under 150rpm)?
    -t slots in cross feed bed?

    What featurs would you recomend? (I know there are a bunch that think I should go for a 2nd hand hercus or something, but I really don't want to buy a lemon, or spend the next year rebuilding it etc)
    Hi 1down5up,

    First up, the meet and greet. Welcome to the MetalWork Forums.

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    Comment on the lathe features

    All those features would be desirable to me, with a question as to where the slots in the cross feed are, precisely?

    Theres a Utube video concerning that subject by xynadu, who posts here on the Forums as nearnexus.

    Some of the chinese lathe slots in in the cross feed arm weaken the casting as there not enough meat left.

    That feature perhaps I think needs to be checked on very closely. I have no experience with tee slots in cross feed arms, so I can't comment further.

    However you are getting a lathe with no 4 jaw chuck ,something that will cost you $320.The lathe stand is an accessory as well.
    If you are handy ,you can knock up your own lathe stand. I can't see the $460 H & F are asking for it. That money buys a good amount of materials.

    Another thing to consider might be country of origin.If it is China, essential spare parts might be difficult to source in future??

    The rest of the learned gentlemen shall be along shortly ,to further advise you.


    Welcome

    Grahame

  3. #3
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    - Belt drive or Gear quick change Drive (have read that belt is best newbies incase you jam the work) I doubt you will jam the work more than once or twice. You soon learn not to.
    -quick change lead screw gearbox?
    -independent lead/feed (think thats what it's called, slower feed than from the threading speed from the half nut)?
    -power cross feed?
    - larger than 26mm spindle bore. Bore is good, but is usually in proportion to lathe size. Better to have a smaller bore on a good lathe rather than a large bore on an unsuitable lathe.
    -twin v ways (some only have a single v)? Not really critical as a single V way works (there are millions of lathes out there without twin V's)
    -cam lock Chuck? It's a good feature but not critical. If the choice came down to a with or without, I'd be taking with.
    -dc variable speed?
    -low spindle speeds (say under 150rpm)? For threading you really want lower than that (50rpm or even lower would be my suggestion)
    -t slots in cross feed bed? Maybe - lots of lathes don't have them

    What would really help is if you said the sort of thing that you wanted to do and with what materials. Making up a 3 1/2" gauge loco is quite different from repairing mining trucks. I always maintain that once bitten by the machining bug you will buy at least 2 lathes - one to learn on, and then one with the features on that you decide after learning what works for you or not. The typical small imports are not worthless second hand (so selling on is not a problem), and certainly small lathes are nicer to learn on as they don't rip your arms off if you get it wrong.

    Michael

  4. #4
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    A few points from your questions...
    - A quick change gearbox is nice, but not essential for the hobbyist. If you are doing a lot of screw cutting then it would be desirable.
    - DC variable speed? I think the less electronics the better, keep it simple with belts, gears and pulleys.
    - A large bore is good if the lathe has been designed for it. Good quality large bore lathes and chucks are expensive.
    - A cam lock chuck would be nice.
    - I think T-slots are unnecessary and can reduce rigidity in the lathe.

    Paul

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input so far.

    I will be using it for motorcycle parts, some small hobbie bit and pieces, maybe a few steem engines etc - basically see where it takes me.

    I've noticed on some lathes the tailstock doesn't locate on a vee way, rather just between the ways, I'm assuming this wouldn't be as accurate as locating on a v way.

    I don't think I have seen any lathes that go as low as 50rpm, but I suppose one could possibly make a smaller motor and larger main pully to slow the whole show down

  6. #6
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1down5up View Post
    Thanks for the input so far.

    I will be using it for motorcycle parts, some small hobbie bit and pieces, maybe a few steem engines etc - basically see where it takes me.

    I've noticed on some lathes the tailstock doesn't locate on a vee way, rather just between the ways, I'm assuming this wouldn't be as accurate as locating on a v way.

    I don't think I have seen any lathes that go as low as 50rpm, but I suppose one could possibly make a smaller motor and larger main pully to slow the whole show down
    Sounds like a Hercus would meet your needs and most models also start at around 50rpm.
    Using a vector drive VFD and a 3P motor that has twice the original motor power I can spin mine at about 15 rpm and still have full original power.
    The only thing I wish I had on my Hercus is a tad more bore, even 25 mm would be really useful.

  7. #7
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    Hi 1down5up, Guys,

    I've got a Myford, similar to a Hercus or Southbend, The spindle bore is only about 5/8", its been rare that I've needed anything bigger. Fixed and travelling steadies have worked OK for me. As far as low speeds are concerned, using back gear I can get as low as 40 or 50 rpm, good for cutting coarse threads and spring or coil winding.
    At one time I wound a number of coils using 8 mm copper tube, the low back gear speed was perfect for that job.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1down5up View Post
    I don't think I have seen any lathes that go as low as 50rpm, but I suppose one could possibly make a smaller motor and larger main pully to slow the whole show down
    Something like this one gets down to 60rpm. The low speed is useful for cutting threads (especially coarse ones) and larger diameter pieces. 125rpm is the nominal speed for HSS on a 70mm diameter piece of steel. 60rpm lets you go to 150mm diameter. That may not matter but as most will tell you, trying to thread at high speed can be rather hair raising.

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/K007A

    Doesn't have a camlock chuck, but a bolt on arrangement it seems. The main reason that screw-on chucks are avoided is that 1) chucks can get wedged on and are a pain to remove, and 2) the lathe can't run in reverse without risk of unscrewing the chuck. I don't think this lathe would have that problem (but it is your choice).

    Quote Originally Posted by 1down5up View Post
    I've noticed on some lathes the tailstock doesn't locate on a vee way, rather just between the ways, I'm assuming this wouldn't be as accurate as locating on a v way.
    You are right. I was thinking of two V ways acting on the carriage. My mistake

    Michael

  9. #9
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    All, a few more questions

    I've noticed on some lathes the tailstock doesn't locate on a vee way, rather just between the ways, I'm assuming this wouldn't be as accurate as locating on a v way.

    Also, how critical would you say a foot brake is, none of the sub $5,000 or so machines have them,

    Have been reassessing the AL-320g (thanks Michael G) but the lack or quick change gearbox is something I'm not sure I won't be disappointed with, more for adjusting feed speeds rather than multiple different threads.

  10. #10
    jatt's Avatar
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    It was only a quick scan thru this thead I will admit.

    Hopefully not listed already, but QCTP. Only prob I have had with AL336 in this regard is if I wanna buy additional holders, then so far at least, is a case of mod the ones I buy, or make em from scratch. Cause they dont seem to fit my post. Despite this, being able to simply drop the ones in at will is a very appealing feature.

    Also, how critical would you say a foot brake is, none of the sub $5,000 or so machines have them,
    Cant say I would want to use mine constantly, but quite handy at times. Will admit sometimes will have my foot resting against it as a backup when say turning up to a shoulder.

    DRO - Wouldnt be without it. Is it essentail? of course not, but being able to go back to the same point, say after have done some checking on the vernier- worth every cent in my opinion.

    Spindle bore - mines only 38mm. Honestly wouldnt want to go any less.

    If you have the space/ budget, wouldnt go any smaller than something like the AL336. Knew mine would be at the lower end of what I needed when I purchased, but shed space is limited at pres. Then theres the 3ph thing. Didnt wanna muck with VFD either, so yeah....

    Good luck with it. Dont be afraid to push it a bit on the $ front, think you will be glad you did!
    Frisky wife, happy life. ​Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.
    From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".

  11. #11
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    I don't know where you're located, but if you're in Sydney and buying from H&F, please be aware you will get the floor demo lathe. When I bought my AL960B I got caught by this. If it's in good nick and complete, that's great, but if it's been beaten around and messed with, well...

    The demo unit had a sticky change box and other issues. I bought the lathe thinking that demo units get treated badly, that's why it was on the floor ... and that's the one that turned up. I had many fights with H&F over this and got nowhere. I've been repairing it a bit at a time ever since. Just finally got around to putting proper knurled nuts on the change gear cover yesterday, in fact - they lost them and it came with ordinary hardware nuts on there instead, not even out of the same &^%&$$% bag of nuts. I was *not* a happy camper, I can tell you.

    Don't be too afraid of 2nd hand, especially if you can find someone who'll have a look with you. Ask around, I'm on the northern side of Sydney and would be happy to do that for anyone local to me.

    Understand that if you buy new Chinese, you're going to put in some work. For starters, drain the headstock and apron oil and clean both out then refill. They'll both be full of metal chips and grinding dust. The chucks will need to be disassembled and cleaned, possibly the tailstock too. I'm not trying to put you off, just that's how it works. They're cheap for a reason (I know $2500 or $3500 doesn't feel cheap, but compare that to a new Colchester manual lathe at ~ $25,000 - yes, they still make manual lathes - and you'll see why they cost what they do).

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the heads up on potential floor stock, that's surprising H&F would give you floor stock without letting you know.

    If/when it comes time to purchase I'll be making sure I specify a new one and checking the serial number of the one on the floor.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SP_Flip View Post

    They're cheap for a reason (I know $2500 or $3500 doesn't feel cheap, but compare that to a new Colchester manual lathe at ~ $25,000 - yes, they still make manual lathes - and you'll see why they cost what they do).
    My work just bought a Harrison M300 lathe. $37000.00 (about the size of a AL960B)! I'm trying to figure a way of getting it into my trailer.

    Ben.

  14. #14
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    Yeah, $37,000 is a bit beyond my budget, $4,000 for a optiturn tu3008 is hard enough to justify for a hobbies.

    Bit concerned it only goes down to 125rpm, seems fast for threading.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1down5up View Post
    Bit concerned it only goes down to 125rpm, seems fast for threading.
    Flip the tool upside down, run the spindle in reverse, and set the leadscrew so you cut the thread left to right. Problem solved.

    Not a big deal as far as I'm concerned anyway, the AL335 goes down to 75rpm and I think I've used that speed exactly twice due to poor finish from carbide inserts at that speed for the diameters I'm normally working with. Probably would have worked a bit better if I wasn't too lazy to grind a HSS threading tool (suppose I'll find out when I try out the Komet FG III holder that came with the Graziano). Usually thread to shoulders at 220-270 rpm (depending on how much bigger the shoulder is than the thread diameter), but everyone does it a different way... If you need the thread right up hard against the shoulder you'd be better with the approach above anyway...

    Could always make new motor pulleys with an extra row on them to get a bit slower speed out of it, convert to a 3 phase motor with a VFD, or make up a foot brake if it really bothers you. Still cheaper than buying an AL336 which goes down to 60rpm.

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