Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 29 of 29

Thread: Lathe Stand Mod

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    I got all my holes drilled today and test fit the plates to make sure they actually fit the base of the lathe!
    They do....
    I measured about 20 times, but its still a relief when they fit....lol

    My section of 6" pipe is too big for the tail stock end riser. There is no clearance for the bolts heads.
    I could cut 4 slots in the pipe to give clearance for the bolt heads, but thats a fair bit of work. I will see if I can scrounge a bit of 5" pipe from work, next week.

    Then its on to machining the pipes so they are the same height.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    The fixings on my lathe are studs not bolts, there are no heads on them ! They just thread straight into the cross bar underneath, in fact there isn’t any nuts either, they just screw into threaded holes. The nuts under the feet are hollow tubes about 30 mm long, that are threaded on the outside and thread into the riser. You could easily turn some up from hex bar. The nut on top of the foot threads onto the stud with a thick (2 mm) washer underneath.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    I found some 5" pipe today so I am all set for the next step.
    Might be a while as I have to fly to Sydney on Thursday and will a week or so.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/4p1JxnDEvjYTAxFk6

    I've swapped out the jaws on my chuck to the 'outside' set but can only hold the 8" pipe on the inside of the pipe.
    Hope its ok. Will only be spinning slow.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Got some more done in the last couple of days.
    Machined both pipe sections to (almost) the same size.lol
    I reversed the 4 jaw jaws and just was able to grip the 200mm pipe on the outside, so that was good.

    Was thinking on how to ensure the plate holes were aligned before I start welding. ( Plates are cut cutting disc )I guess its not super critical, butif I can get them withing 0.5mm I should be ok.
    THought about using a plumb blob, but couldn't guarrantee the line would central.
    This seemsed the best idea I could think of.
    Will tack them inplace before I weld 50mm beads in each corner.SHould be heaps.
    Steve

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/fZGCaZx4upF9xLYo6

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/cTXSZsMPjz69dRh57

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    I got the last weld done today after having to do some maintenance on the MIG.
    All ready to get the machinist at work to machine them flat and to the same height.
    I noticed the plates are slightly bowed inwards. Not sure if they happened when I welded them or they were naturally bowed.
    Shouldn't matter too much......

    Steve

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/fBHjpt8rNpV7ETVT6

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I got the last weld done today after having to do some maintenance on the MIG.
    All ready to get the machinist at work to machine them flat and to the same height.
    I noticed the plates are slightly bowed inwards. Not sure if they happened when I welded them or they were naturally bowed.
    Shouldn't matter too much......

    Steve

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/fBHjpt8rNpV7ETVT6
    Hi Steve,

    Personally I wouldn't bother, your jack screws will take care of any slight bow !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Not using jack screws at this stage as all my holes are clearance holes.
    Will do some checks when it's all tightened down and go from there.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Evenin' Gents,

    I'm so close I can smell it.....
    A machinist mate skimmed my risers today...woo hoo.
    Wasn't sure I had to , but for piece of mind I got it done anyway. Once its done, its done.

    Have to paint them and then remount them and the lathe. Then I can move onto the switch job.....
    Steve

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/xzhSaZZ7U1QHfbhG9

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/vc9bRKNK2dNs14Nq7

    I'm dong more sorting the lathe, than I am using it....lol

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Painted the Risers and fitted them today.
    Had some fetling to do to on the holes to get them to line up but not too bad.
    Gave me an excuse to buy a Die Grinder and some Burrs. ( Should have bought one years ago...)


    https://photos.app.goo.gl/dmATnKAV7EUhxrXi7

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/orSnttWpj6gqL2qZ6


    https://photos.app.goo.gl/J42uwMBHzAZ2UA1s5

    On to the Isolator switch now.

    Steve

  10. #25
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    I noticed the plates are slightly bowed inwards. Not sure if they happened when I welded them or they were naturally bowed.
    Steve
    Steve, that would have happened from the welding, it doesn't take much heat to warp the metal. DAMHIKT
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    586

    Default

    Manowar. Heck yeah.
    \m/

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post
    Manowar. Heck yeah.
    \m/

    lol.

    Afraid so!

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    On the Bellarine
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Sterob,

    Not wanting to hijack the thread, my earlier comments as to the rigidity of lathe stands are pretty much relevant on how they are constructed and I cannot stress that no matter how you use adjusting or leveraging feet/pads, there will always be a compromise as to that rigidity. My example does away with them and uses adjustment under the ends of the supporting beam, not under the legs or base.

    Mine is now on the suspended beam type and have attached a few piccies so you can get a better understanding of how they work. They aren't a new design as there are various posts on this forum and others also on YouTube from blokes that have knocked them up. But this is by far the most rigid I have ever used.

    It is made from 75*75*6mm end posts that carry a 200*100*9mm metal beam which has two 100*100*10mm angles welded to the end of the beam and that supports the lathe so essentially the beam hangs on the stands . The end frames are bolted to the concrete floor and the adjustment comes from the 100*100*10mm angle bars by means of 4 bolts, one in each corner of the angle iron that sit on top of the end frames. I suppose you don't have to bolt them them down as sturdy enough, but I have all the same.

    They are in turn held down by 4 bolts that are drilled through the top of the angle iron through the top of the end walls and screwed tight. It is those that you do your levelling from either raising or lowering that angle on each end before bolting it tight.

    The run out over my lathe length measures 0.03mm.....there is no measurable twist.

    By making it this way you have all the extra space underneath for shelving, drawers or whatever you want to stow there and it is completely rigid so doesn't matter how heavy you load up underneath - it won't move.

    I designed the bottom cross brace (the braces are 50*50*5mm) some 250mm off the ground so I can slide my engine hoist legs in and lift the lathe off when needed. Reason I designed it like that being the standard blue lathe stands make it hard to get the extension legs from the engine hoist under correctly to get an accurate lift when space is tight. By making the bottom shelf so high off the concrete is not wasted as I keep all my stock under there on boards fitted with heavy weight castors so they just roll in and out when I want some stock so nothing is on the ground for moisture contact etc...hopefully the piccie shows that

    I was fortunate enough to have a dear friend weld the basic frame up for me while I was unwell at the time. He did an excellent job to which I am indebted. It allowed me the time to recover and then finish it off at my own pace by building the drawers and other fittings as shown.

    Wish I had done this years ago than spend ages stuffing around trying to get levels on those those blue stands that came with the lathe.........if anyone wants a pair of stands, drop me a PM as I no longer use them......for anything!...............Lee
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Thanks for the post Lee.
    I can certainly see the benefit in building a Lathe Stand like that and I will be looking to do something similar down the track, when I get the shed better orgainised and I have more time.(lol)

    My option is a bit of a stop-gap, at best.

    Thanks for the detailed description and pics.

    Steve
    Last edited by Sterob; 23rd Feb 2021 at 11:17 PM. Reason: spelling

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. New stand for lathe
    By Halifax614 in forum METALWORK PROJECTS
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 26th Nov 2020, 12:51 PM
  2. Lathe stand fixing?
    By neksmerj in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 14th Apr 2013, 08:33 AM
  3. lathe stand
    By welder in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 7th Oct 2012, 11:49 PM
  4. Lathe Stand
    By slhouetteV8 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 20th Feb 2012, 05:29 PM
  5. lathe stand
    By welder in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 4th Aug 2011, 01:15 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •