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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
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    666

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    QUOTE: I've never used a nut splitter so I was wondering if anyone who has used one, what they're thoughts were?

    For your application it sounds a bit like using a sledge hammer to drive a tack, However.......

    Hopefully a photo of my nut splitter is attached. It will accept nuts up to 32mm across the corners. The nut is split by a 10mm wide cold chisel driven by a very fine thread 17mm bolt.

    It takes a lot of torque on the bolt to split a 1/2" Whitworth nut. The body of the splitter has a hex shank which
    can be held with a second spanner to stop it twisting while the bolt controlling the cold chisel is being turned. I think things could get out of control here in your application, but if you want to try it you are welcome to borrow the splitter. PM me your address and I will post it over.

    Hope you can sort it out one way or another fairly quickly.

    Regards,

    Frank
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    473

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    My first thought is a ring splitter, used to remove wedding etc rings from fingers.
    Normal gold cuts quite easily with a tiny hand turned slitting saw type thing, which I doubt would cut s/s but they also have a nut splitter type one for titanium /platinum /ceramic etc.
    The geometry may be wrong, but possibly adaptable.
    I sense you aren't looking for a bargain basement option...

    To drill without heat or vibration, could a hand drill work? No idea how that would go for s/s though.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

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    Quote Originally Posted by franco View Post
    QUOTE: I've never used a nut splitter so I was wondering if anyone who has used one, what they're thoughts were?

    For your application it sounds a bit like using a sledge hammer to drive a tack, However.......

    Hopefully a photo of my nut splitter is attached. It will accept nuts up to 32mm across the corners. The nut is split by a 10mm wide cold chisel driven by a very fine thread 17mm bolt.

    It takes a lot of torque on the bolt to split a 1/2" Whitworth nut. The body of the splitter has a hex shank which
    can be held with a second spanner to stop it twisting while the bolt controlling the cold chisel is being turned. I think things could get out of control here in your application, but if you want to try it you are welcome to borrow the splitter. PM me your address and I will post it over.

    Hope you can sort it out one way or another fairly quickly.

    Regards,

    Frank
    Thanks Frank.
    'deperate times call for desperate measures....' Actually, I thought a nut splitter would be the least violent method of removing the bushing as it would happen in a controlled manner.

    I was wondering about the torque. That might exclude a manual splitter as a hydraulic one would not have that problem.

    Thanks for the offer, but if I was to use one, I'd just buy one. They are not expensive, I don't think.


    We are aways for that anyway. I would need to convince the prostethist that it was the way forward first.

    Steve

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

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    Quote Originally Posted by russ57 View Post
    My first thought is a ring splitter, used to remove wedding etc rings from fingers.
    Normal gold cuts quite easily with a tiny hand turned slitting saw type thing, which I doubt would cut s/s but they also have a nut splitter type one for titanium /platinum /ceramic etc.
    The geometry may be wrong, but possibly adaptable.
    I sense you aren't looking for a bargain basement option...

    To drill without heat or vibration, could a hand drill work? No idea how that would go for s/s though.

    Do you mean 'Ring Cutter'? A hand turned cutting disc with a backing section that slides under the Ring?
    No, that won't work. No access to the inner section of the Bushing.

    Sorry...Still can't post a pic.....even a 49kb pic....

    This is an old pic of the rear of the Bushing. The screw fills the whole void.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    One thing worries me a bit about the splitter... It's been a long time since I've seen one used, but to my mind before the collar splits, it's going to deform. Some expansion will go sideways in the desired direction, but it also seems like it will expand up and down - against the underside of the capscrew, and against the mating surface. How critical is the flatness of the surface the collar sits on? I can't quite tell if that part is removable from the earlier link... And the other concern following the same train of thought - if it fails to split the collar, the deformation from the attempt is effectively going to make the capscrew tighter than it already is....

    Unfortunately I don't have any better ideas either - best I can come up with is dremeling a decent slot into the capscrew for a big flat blade screwdriver. Not exactly guaranteed success, and doesn't avoid the "time-consuming and uncomfortable" parts. Although I did wonder since you mentioned heat being a problem, whether there was a possibility to wrap an icepack around the area in some way to counter the heat? Probably a stupid suggestion though...

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,656

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    I may this all wrong and if I have just ignore me, would it not be possible with suitable shielding to cut the collar with a Diamond disc it in a flex shaft or similar

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Steve what size allen key is supposed to fit the bolt?

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    One thing worries me a bit about the splitter... It's been a long time since I've seen one used, but to my mind before the collar splits, it's going to deform. Some expansion will go sideways in the desired direction, but it also seems like it will expand up and down - against the underside of the capscrew, and against the mating surface. How critical is the flatness of the surface the collar sits on? I can't quite tell if that part is removable from the earlier link... And the other concern following the same train of thought - if it fails to split the collar, the deformation from the attempt is effectively going to make the capscrew tighter than it already is....
    Yes, I was thinking it might expand inwards and outwards, stretching the thread in the Abutment. It seems to be my biggest concern.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    Unfortunately I don't have any better ideas either - best I can come up with is dremeling a decent slot into the capscrew for a big flat blade screwdriver. Not exactly guaranteed success, and doesn't avoid the "time-consuming and uncomfortable" parts. Although I did wonder since you mentioned heat being a problem, whether there was a possibility to wrap an icepack around the area in some way to counter the heat? Probably a stupid suggestion though...
    IF I can stand the vibrations from demeling, that might work. Might be a long process as well. That would preserve the Bushing anyway.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
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    1,277

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    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    I may this all wrong and if I have just ignore me, would it not be possible with suitable shielding to cut the collar with a Diamond disc it in a flex shaft or similar
    Down the side, you mean? Yes, but would be a long process. Maybe a conbination of dremel cutting and a nut splitter? Pre-cutting may minimise distortion and decrease the possibilty of stretching the thread?
    Worth considering.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
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    58
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Steve what size allen key is supposed to fit the bolt?

    6mm

    We tried 1/4" as well. They tried lightly grinding the 1/4" allen key into a slight taper as well.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    473

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    Like this.
    https://www.titaniumstyle.com/titani...ng-cut-off.htm

    My memory deceived, I thought there was a splitter type tool but the diamond blade/no heat sounds promising.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    100

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    Do You have a mate with an EDM?

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
    Posts
    1,225

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcostello View Post
    Do You have a mate with an EDM?
    How do you plan for this to work? the bolt is attached to his leg, so a edm will cover him in nasty oil, and electrocute him.

    I think the best option might be to try to dremel it out. would it be possible to fixture the exposed bush to a bench or similar to dampen the vibrations going into your leg?

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

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    Steve there is a chamfer there between the disc and the bit it is attatched to, that might be enough to engage a matching vee formed into a split cylinder that would be threaded at the other end for a bolt that would push a splined bit, similar to a torx tool, into the damaged head of the bolt.
    The bolt would then be removed and socket inserted to turn the bit to undo the bolt.
    If you would like to try this I could make it if you like but i would need some measurements.
    These pics might give you an idea of what i am thinking??
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Willowbank QLD
    Posts
    517

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    I am guessing all ideas are a starting point, so here is one. If i understand correctly the hex is rounded out and the bolt is over torqued.

    In the aeronautical industry there are some really strong metal bonding "glues". Can you "bond" the hex tool in place. Once cured the screw may undo.

    Steve

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