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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    If you were to turn the very bottom end of the pin spanner in my drawing separately say 10 or 12mm long. In other words a disk with the locating pin and the two 2.5mm holes, you could use that as the drilling jig for the two holes to line up properly and reliably. You could then drill the first pin hole, put a hardened 2.5mm pin in that hole and then drill the second hole. Confirm with a second 2.5mm pin that it all lines up securely.
    Actually, why not mill a hex on the outer end above the 16mm dia bit that fits into the adaptor ring, or start with a bit of hex stock? Then you could use a socket spanner directly on the little tool to unscrew the bolt.
    My initial thought was to use the short drilling jig and weld it onto the T-handle. But picturing this in my head I realised it may not be necessary.
    Like this:
    Jig.jpg

    Make it out of good steel or stainless and use nice long hardened dowel pins, then glue the whole thing on to the bolt head with that C200 stuff mentioned and offered earlier in the thread.
    Are your own machining facilities and skills OK to do that? I'm sure if not, Bob Thomas or Bob Loss would be delighted to help you. In fact, neither of them are squeamish and might be useful precision engineers with sufficiently empathetic to help you drill the two holes for you under your close supervision and feedback on vibration, pressure, cutting speed etc. What do you two boys say, BobL and AnorakBob?
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    If you were to turn the very bottom end of the pin spanner in my drawing separately say 10 or 12mm long. In other words a disk with the locating pin and the two 2.5mm holes, you could use that as the drilling jig for the two holes to line up properly and reliably. You could then drill the first pin hole, put a hardened 2.5mm pin in that hole and then drill the second hole. Confirm with a second 2.5mm pin that it all lines up securely.
    Actually, why not mill a hex on the outer end above the 16mm dia bit that fits into the adaptor ring, or start with a bit of hex stock? Then you could use a socket spanner directly on the little tool to unscrew the bolt.
    My initial thought was to use the short drilling jig and weld it onto the T-handle. But picturing this in my head I realised it may not be necessary.
    Like this:
    Jig.jpg

    Make it out of good steel or stainless and use nice long hardened dowel pins, then glue the whole thing on to the bolt head with that C200 stuff mentioned and offered earlier in the thread.
    Are your own machining facilities and skills OK to do that? I'm sure if not, Bob Thomas or Bob Loss would be delighted to help you. In fact, neither of them are squeamish and might be useful precision engineers with sufficiently empathetic to help you drill the two holes for you under your close supervision and feedback on vibration, pressure, cutting speed etc. What do you two boys say, BobL and AnorakBob?

    Thanks Joe, Use the jig as a drilling guide for the pins. nice!
    I have a lathe and the skills to do that.

    Will have to wait and see what they come up with now. i will be sure to shout them down if I think they are lost.....lol

    Thanks Guys.
    Nothing like 'spitballing' to get some new ideas.

    Steve

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    72
    Posts
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    I agree! Why not make the tool, get the pins and hand them to them without any comments.... I'd love to see their faces....

    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Just ran your issue by another member who lives near me. He asked if you couldn't just tap a thread into the now rounded hex hole?
    Would that be an option? You might have run a drill or reamer into the hole to get the diameter right.... Once you have a bottoming tap in there you just. Tighten it until the LH threaded bolt comes loose. Obviously that has to be a very strong tap, not Chinese Bangood quality....
    The only hickup I can think of is the root diameter. M7 is about right for your current hole, but not that easy to get. 5/16th might be ok - and stronger - but will require opening the tapping hole a few thou....

    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Just ran your issue by another member who lives near me. He asked if you couldn't just tap a thread into the now rounded hex hole?
    Would that be an option? You might have run a drill or reamer into the hole to get the diameter right.... Once you have a bottoming tap in there you just. Tighten it until the LH threaded bolt comes loose. Obviously that has to be a very strong tap, not Chinese Bangood quality....
    The only hickup I can think of is the root diameter. M7 is about right for your current hole, but not that easy to get. 5/16th might be ok - and stronger - but will require opening the tapping hole a few thou....

    Cheers
    Joe

    That *might* work. The hole is not terribly deep, but it could be made deeper. I actually do have a M7 tap and M7 high tensile setscrews in my stash! I used them to remove float needle seats in one of my BMW m/c Carb float bowls.
    That would be quick to try and not afect any other options as well.

    Steve

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Are you absolutely positive that it is a left hand thread, because the picture pointed to earlier seemed to show a normal RH thread ! Otherwise putting a thread in the screw could be a good idea.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Are you absolutely positive that it is a left hand thread, because the picture pointed to earlier seemed to show a normal RH thread ! Otherwise putting a thread in the screw could be a good idea.

    Yes, absolutely positive it is a left hand thread. I work in the electrical/instrument field, so I know the difference and the irritation they cause....lol.
    In the last 5 years, I have removed , or been involved in removing it probably 10 times.

    The picture ofall the parts layed out , I linked to, are not, MY parts.

    I was told there were only 1 or 2 people with LH screws in WA. Luckey, aren't I?...lol

    Steve

  8. #98
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Any updates?
    Another engineering friend suggested tapping M7 into the hole and using a nut on a through-stud in my last tool design and make an adjustable backstop (grubscrews) for each of the pins. The tool and pins could then be held tight against the distal screw, so the pins can't slip accidentally....
    Just a small improvement that hadn't occurred to me....

    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  9. #99
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    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Nothing to report.
    Did not get much positivy from any of the suggestions posted here. I guess they don't think they need any help.

    I'm persuing going to Sydney, as I need a some sort of revision as well.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    Of course not, they've been so successful until now

    Hope you can get it sorted out with minimal pain

  11. #101
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    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Of course not, they've been so successful until now

    Hope you can get it sorted out with minimal pain

    Thanks Elan.
    We will have to see.
    Will update when I have something.

  12. #102
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    Pity it's Sydney that you have to go to, if it was Melbourne there'd be a heap of nice like minded blokes to meet. I know, as I met a few when I was there.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  13. #103
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    Sep 2006
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    Australind , WA
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    Epilogue:

    I had my parts swapped out last friday. Got shiny new bits now, all RH thread now, apparently.....
    It took over 6 hours under a GA.
    My hip is sore so they must have done some fancy stuff.
    Still in Hospital but hope to be going home on Friday.

  14. #104
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Hope you get home soon!
    Please do find out and let us know which parts were replaced and how they did it!
    Sounds like they replaced the long proximal screw and everything from there out....
    Amazing technology and engineering, isn't it?
    I'm VERY impressed!

    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  15. #105
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Glad to hear of the successful outcome. Hope you mend soon.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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