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  1. #16
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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyGMachining View Post
    So having a bit more of a look at this mill. I thought I would share a bit more.
    After removing the vertical head slide we can see some of the gears look to be in great shape:
    Attachment 388996
    The spiral bevel gear within the vertical head looks good too:
    Attachment 388998
    All of the exterior looks a bit rusty, but it's not too terrible.
    I've never really done this type of restoration, but the parts should clean up nice in a vinegar bath.
    Attachment 388999

    All of the power feed mechanisms are missing (see below). I'm torn between rebuilding it, vs making my own version.
    I love the idea of the feeds driven off the same motor, but is more work to figure out how I connect it.
    I'm tempted to install a new motor and feed lever, but mechanically connect it to the leadscrews as per the original method
    Attachment 389000

    Given how clean the interior is, I don't know that I will fully break it down. I will clean the coolant tank in the base.
    I'm dreading the horrors that might be lurking in there...

    More to come
    If possible I'd add a separate motor for the feeds.

    Mine has one motor doing both. The previous owner swapped a perfectly good 2 speed 3 phase motor out *AND THREW IT AWAY*. He replaced it with a single speed 240V 3 phase motor and a VFD.

    Now this kind of works except now you really have NFI just what speed your table feeds are doing as the rotary knob is lying to you. I hate it. It cost him $500 on the sale frankly which was interesting for him as he thought it should be worth more, being able to run off of a single phase supply and all. I differed and so apparently did everyone else.

    So I'd power the feeds separately from the spindle if you can.

    I still want to fit mine with the proper 2 speed motor but haven't found one yet.

    PDW

  2. #17
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    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by danshell View Post
    Thanks for sharing. Obviously I have an interest in it given that I am seeing what I missed out on unfold before me

    If you could source the required parts putting the power feed back to original would be nice but so would a more modern set up, and it is fun making these things work. When I get an old machine I like to strip it down just enough to make sure all the vitals are in tact, cleaned and well lubricated. Then once I have it all working as it should I make a decision on a full strip down restoration or not.

    I think you find a science experiment or two in that coolant tank
    There might even be some goodies in the tank. The last one I cleaned out had some random tools that dropped in there. Only centre drills unfortunately, but maybe I will get lucky and find something worthwhile

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Wow, that looks pristine inside. #Winning

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Big plan for this weekend is disassembling the axes.
    I'm having trouble working out the y axis on top of the column though

    P1144432 2.jpg
    I've tried undoing the leadscrew nut at the back, and completely removing the gib strip (not shown in the pics)
    The dovetail seems to be contained with a partial box way (which also protects the long drive gear), and the axis is still tight
    P1144433.jpg
    I can't really see anything holding it in place, I can't slide it forwards or back (the long drive gear hits the box way)
    I might just try lifting straight up this weekend
    P1144434 2.jpg

  5. #20
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    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
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    97

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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    If possible I'd add a separate motor for the feeds.

    Mine has one motor doing both. The previous owner swapped a perfectly good 2 speed 3 phase motor out *AND THREW IT AWAY*. He replaced it with a single speed 240V 3 phase motor and a VFD.

    Now this kind of works except now you really have NFI just what speed your table feeds are doing as the rotary knob is lying to you. I hate it. It cost him $500 on the sale frankly which was interesting for him as he thought it should be worth more, being able to run off of a single phase supply and all. I differed and so apparently did everyone else.

    So I'd power the feeds separately from the spindle if you can.

    I still want to fit mine with the proper 2 speed motor but haven't found one yet.

    PDW
    Yeah I think you have a point. Mine is using a single phase motor as well
    I'm thinking of a single powerfeed motor with a clutch to control which axis gets power. I think it's unlikely I'll need more than 1 at a time other than convenient rapid positioning

  6. #21
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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyGMachining View Post
    Yeah I think you have a point. Mine is using a single phase motor as well
    I'm thinking of a single powerfeed motor with a clutch to control which axis gets power. I think it's unlikely I'll need more than 1 at a time other than convenient rapid positioning
    Not real familiar with that model - doesn't it have the joystick for X & Z movements under power? Mine does - no power feed on Y but the other axes are fine.

    Ah - I now recall you writing something about missing feed bits so if that's the case, I understand your problem. This Old Tony had a recent series on CNC converting his Maho - I suspect a similar approach just using Arduinos to drive the steppers would be a quicker thing to do.

    I have a few of those about the place myself and at least 5 Raspberry Pi's of various configs. Nice little computers for all sorts of tasks.

    PDW

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Perth
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    332

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    Hi TMG,
    I'm going through the process of grease removal from an FP1 so my comments pertain to that, but I think the GHA is somewhat similar.
    On the Practical Machinist website there is a lot of good information under the Deckel heading, but to remove the Y drive system you will need to remove the horizontal spindle as the drive gear is limiting it. The gib strip should be removable by backing off the adjustment screw, if it wont move look for the Y axis locking handle, it could also be broken off. From my experience and different to some diagrams, the head will not lift off, it needs to be slid off.
    The Y feed screw should be detachable from the bracket at the rear of the Y ram, the bracket IIRC has locating pins in it. Good luck, Alan.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sydney
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    505

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    Hello TommyGM,
    Reading this thread stirred a memory that I may have some info on the Alexander mill, and exploration of my files shows two pdf's, one 24 pages and the other 30.
    If you are interested please PM me with your email address and I will send them (each file is about 6MB).
    Cheers,
    Bill

  9. #24
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    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
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    97

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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Not real familiar with that model - doesn't it have the joystick for X & Z movements under power? Mine does - no power feed on Y but the other axes are fine.

    Ah - I now recall you writing something about missing feed bits so if that's the case, I understand your problem. This Old Tony had a recent series on CNC converting his Maho - I suspect a similar approach just using Arduinos to drive the steppers would be a quicker thing to do.

    I have a few of those about the place myself and at least 5 Raspberry Pi's of various configs. Nice little computers for all sorts of tasks.

    PDW
    Yeah it normally has a joy stick. I think I will make something for manual jogging at least
    Maybe I'll make it really simple and keep it all analog and mechanical. We'll see

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
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    97

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    I managed to get the y axis off and the long travelling gear looks great! The gearbox oil looked pretty clean, but I changed it anyway

    The underside of the y axis also looks good. The lightning bolt oil grooves were sharp (almost serrated) edged which I didn't like. I took a needle file to these and then stoned those edges down to remove burrs
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: png 3.png (647.9 KB, 28 views)
    • File Type: png 2.png (509.0 KB, 24 views)
    • File Type: png 4.png (140.7 KB, 27 views)
    • File Type: png 1.png (162.6 KB, 26 views)

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
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    97

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    Getting back to this mill project. I cleaned up the table with scotch bright
    Only needed to go over it lightly and it came up awesome

    vlcsnap-2020-11-22-20h50m11s823 2.jpg

  12. #27
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    Oct 2019
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    Tasmania
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    53
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    Nice work mate.

    I cry everyday because I missed out on this one when it came up for sale

  13. #28
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    Nov 2018
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    Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by danshell View Post
    Nice work mate.

    I cry everyday because I missed out on this one when it came up for sale
    There was a big beefy mill on gumtree the other day down south, I was very tempted except I don't have the means to unload it at present, and my shed is in a state of chaos at the moment

  14. #29
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    Nov 2018
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    Tasmania
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    The mill came with a slotting head, I gave it a bit of attention over the weekend
    It was completely seized up, but now runs silky smooth
    Other than surface rust and some lubricant (grease?) that had gone nasty in the slide, everything was in decent shape
    P1144429.jpgvlcsnap-2020-11-29-18h38m28s011.png

    However, the rear locating dovetail was severely cracked (I think the previous owner tried to lift the entire mill using the hole in the back??). There wasn't much point in milling it off as it was barely on, so a few light hammer taps knocked it off
    P1144431 2.jpgvlcsnap-2020-11-29-18h57m22s729.png

    Just using the front dovetail appears to align it quite well on the machine, and being the rear dovetail, technically it shouldn't need to resist any tension or sideways forces when slotting vertically.
    I need to address it, but there is not much material to work with short of welding. For now I'm leaving it until I come up with something
    Progress...

  15. #30
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    Nov 2018
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    Tasmania
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    Well got back to this project and removed the x axis which was very stiff.
    Removal was fairly straightforward, remove both handwheels, remove the right cover plate, undo the screws and slide out the gib, then temporarily refit the right handwheel and wind the leadscrew out. An engine crane was used to support the heave block of iron at the end
    Annotation 2020-12-15 222939.jpg

    The ways are dirty from old oil (maybe grease?) and a little rust, but not to bad.
    Annotation 2020-12-15 223046.jpg

    aaand this is where we get the first sign of wear on this project. HEAVY scoring on the ways and gib strip.
    This is in multiple locations. I used an Arkansas stone to remove the severe burrs, and the followed with a precision ground flat stone. We'll just call them oil retention grooves
    Annotation 2020-12-15 223111.jpg

    Otherwise everything cleaned up reasonably well (I did a bit more after this photo was taken)
    Annotation 2020-12-15 223929.jpg

    It should slide much better now, but I'm taking the z axis off first, so I won't get a chance to test how smooth it is for a bit.

    The scoring makes sense if you look at how the axis is arranged, the ways are unprotected at the sides, and it is very easy for contaminants to enter. I'm not sure if there is normally a cover, I'm certainly going to make something after seeing this.

    More soon

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