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4th Oct 2020, 07:05 PM #16
Hi Guys,
The laminator will help tremendously, constant heating and constant pressure over the surface. I've used that method quite successfully for doing pcb's.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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5th Oct 2020, 09:50 AM #17Golden Member
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- Aug 2015
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- Melbourne, Australia
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- 843
Nice job danshell - I like the maker plates!
Office works has a laminator for like $30 or something - but reading the reviews they last about 3 times. But, I do read they make life easier. I did consider it, but it was "one more thing" - I just stuck with trying to figure it out. If I was doing this more I sure be tempted to get one though.
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5th Oct 2020, 10:30 AM #18Senior Member
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- Oct 2019
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- Tasmania
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- 53
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Thanks gents, we do have a laminator.
And I did watch a youtube video where a bloke was using one but it was after I made mine! While it was a little hit and miss I was happy enough with the results for what i was using them for.
Ill use the laminator if I do some more in the future.
My gear is old and to be honest I like the 'aged' look I got with the labels being a little bit less than perfect. They actually look quite authentic on the machines.
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5th Oct 2020, 10:44 AM #19Senior Member
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- Oct 2019
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- Tasmania
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- 53
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Just one other observation I made for those that might try this.
When I made this 'reverse' image, because it had so much transfer paper on it, I was able to put tape on the areas that buggered up. I did try a paint pen on another label to see if it would work like the transfer paper but the acid made short work of it!! We have a stencil cutter that my wife uses for hobby stuff, that i also have used in the past for cutting vinyl decals. Now while it doesnt like to cut really small fine work, it would be perfect for larger etching jobs. I think the right type of vinyl may be a good transfer medium??
Screen Shot 2020-10-05 at 10.41.08 am.png
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20th Nov 2020, 03:54 PM #20Member
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- Dec 2015
- Location
- south coast, nsw
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- 52
[QUOTE=StrayAlien;1975078]
Here we do the business and let science dazzle us. And we be very careful. This is nasty nasty stuff folks. The etching gives off vapours - only some of which you can see as steam. Treat the process with respect. I wore gloves, had a bucket of water handy, and stayed well away while it was all going on. Took a deep breath, went to inspect stuff, went away, took a breath. No breathing around the etching.
There is a lot of variability in this part of the process. Like, how strong is the acid? What concentration is the hydrogen peroxide? What is the temperature? (etching is much slower on a cold day than a warm day). I read online that the etching mixture was 1 part acid to 2 part peroxide. I just stuck with that even though maybe there was a more ideal mixture. Dunno. [QUOTE]
You can etch aluminium using Copper Sulfate, much nicer to use.
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21st Nov 2020, 11:32 PM #21Golden Member
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- Aug 2015
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- Melbourne, Australia
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- 843
Tiprat, any learnings to share? I know it can be used but have no experience. I used what i could get my hands on.
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22nd Nov 2020, 04:02 AM #22Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
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- south coast, nsw
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- 52
Here's the recipe for the solution I use; for 2l of water, 250g Copper Sulfate, 50g NaCl (salt), 5g NaHSO4 (pool chemical). A decent chemist could tell you what the other chemicals actually do, but that's knowledge beyond where I want to go.
The recipe was originally made for etching Zinc plates for artists, without using those nasty chemicals that sweet little artists can well do without exposure to. The chemical reaction (displacement) works on Aluminium just as well as on Zinc and thus provides an alternative to using expensive Zinc plates.
When I started out I was using those blue transfer things but found them too fiddly and results were inconsistent. For my main repetitive job I made up a silk screen and used Ormonoid roof paint as the resist. I also worked with brass and stainless steel but used Ferric Chloride as the etchant. I also etch Aluminium tubes, using Shellac as a broad area resist (turning slowly on a lathe) and a PCB pen to draw details freehand.
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