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24th Sep 2020, 08:02 PM #31Most Valued Member
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Ok, moving on from the pump - I’ll need to strip the old (used) cylinder and re-seal it as well as check it’s not nasty inside.
I’m assuming the end cap just screws on, and it’s just a case of unscrewing it?
I’ll need to make up a pin spanner to fit, so how much fight should I expect to get it moving - ie should I make the pin spanner solid enough to survive a hammering?
Steve
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24th Sep 2020, 10:06 PM #32Most Valued Member
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Knocked up a quick spanner out of some flat and a couple of cap screws. Couple of light hits with the hammer got it moving.
Unfortunately it looks like I copped the only water damaged cylinder in the pile
Bugger...
Steve
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24th Sep 2020, 10:42 PM #33Most Valued Member
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Clean it up and give it a hone and it might be ok, if it holds air pressure it should be ok, failing that you might get the right size tube here
https://www.voestalpine.com/highperformancemetals/australia/en/home/products-brands/products/tube/
How much of the cyl is undamaged, if you cut the rusted end off will the stroke be long enough with using the undamaged end?Last edited by shedhappens; 24th Sep 2020 at 10:53 PM. Reason: more
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24th Sep 2020, 11:06 PM #34Most Valued Member
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Workshop press build - hydraulic questions
Any suggestions on an alternative method to hone it - or is it just a case of buying a cylinder hone to suit?
Cutting it down is a possibility. Probably leave approx 200-250mm stroke.
Unfortunately the ram was extended a fair way when it was stored so about half the cylinder is rusted.
Steve
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24th Sep 2020, 11:26 PM #35Most Valued Member
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Steve you will have to clean it and have a look to know what way to go, you might get away with cross hatching it
with 400 wet n' dry?
I have had to repair cylinders that were pretty rusted and needed replacing but the tight wad owners didn't want to cough up so they got a clean up and new seals and out they went, and they worked but how well I dont know, how many strokes a day would a cylinder do on a back hoe?
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25th Sep 2020, 12:13 AM #36Most Valued Member
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Thanks Shed.
I just had a poke around on eBay and found a cheap 2-7”, 3 leg hone for $24 delivered so I’ve ordered one of those. It’s a pretty useful size range to have around anyway, apart from this particular job.
I’ll give it a good clean and go from there.
Steve
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25th Sep 2020, 12:23 AM #37
Hi Steve, Guys,
Depending upon the diameter of the cylinder, a wire wheel on a long length of rod in an electric drill would probably remove most of that crap and reduce the wear on your hone. I have one of those bore hones and the stones don't last very long at all, particularly if the surface is a bit rough.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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25th Sep 2020, 12:42 AM #38Most Valued Member
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Thanks - great idea.
Steve
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25th Sep 2020, 11:51 AM #39Most Valued Member
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I would buy a cheap cylinder hone and have a go.
You would be amazed at how much damage an hydraulic cylinder can have and still hold pressure.
I know this because my hydraulic press (which I built) used a very badly worn ram (you could see the wear without measurement) but I replaced the seals and when I tested it, I still managed pressures of 3000 psi. Maybe different in an excavator or other machine that is being used all day and every day but for a press, so far 15 years on and its still good.
Also my hydraulic log splitter that I build used a ram that had rust and small amount of pitting. I honed it with a typical engine cylinder hone until I achieved a visible crossed hatching pattern. The pitting was still visible unfortunately. However, to my surprise, it too holds pressure to 2200 psi (pressure relief valve pressure) and would probably hold pressure easily to 3000 psi as well.
Just my experience.
Simon
Sent from my SM-G970F using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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25th Sep 2020, 12:28 PM #40Most Valued Member
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Steve have you thought about how you are going secure the cylínder?
If the cyl bore comes up passable then it would be an advantage to make a larger dia ród for it.
Mine is 4.5", presses like a chunky rod. Have a look at the end cap and assess if it can be bored out.
I am mentioning this as it would get quite dangerous if you had the rod out a distance with a few ton on it and it decided to go sídeways
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25th Sep 2020, 12:45 PM #41Most Valued Member
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Shed,
Thats a good point and always been in the back of my mind too.
Another option, not as elegant as a chucky ram but i intend (as an upgrade) add supporting stays that project out each side from the bottom of the ram to engage as a sliding track attached the the vertical supports. That removes a degree of freedom for the ram. It will also reduce greatly the ability for the ram to bend front or back.
Simon
Sent from my SM-G970F using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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25th Sep 2020, 01:57 PM #42Most Valued Member
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Good point about the possibility of ram deflection.
I’m sure I could make a larger ram. I’ve got some 2-1/2” rod here and know where I can get some used larger diameter if need be.
My thoughts for mounting this particular cylinder were to make a frame to take the eye of the cylinder, and just restrain the gland end using a close fitting collar.
Steve
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25th Sep 2020, 03:30 PM #43Most Valued Member
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25th Sep 2020, 03:34 PM #44Most Valued Member
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25th Sep 2020, 08:20 PM #45Most Valued Member
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Good idea to use the wire wheel to clean up the worst of it.
Bit of allthread and I had a new cup brush in the cupboard
Almost looks like it’s corroded off a layer - similar to what happens when you have an area of scale chipped off some hot rolled bar.
Hard to get a photo but I tried
Steve
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