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  1. #46
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    Bugga.....have you worked out how much stroke you would get with using the better part of the cyl?

  2. #47
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    Haven't measured, but just looking roughly at the length of the gland cap and where the damage is it definitely wouldn't be 300mm of travel.
    More like maybe 200mm but possibly less.
    Wondering how feasible it might be to bore it out a fraction. The threaded section of the gland cap is probably 6mm larger in diameter than the working bore and I'd guess that a 1mm cut in the bore would clean up the damage.
    I've got 400mm of Z travel on the mill, and a 1m long bed on the lathe.....

    Apart from the actual boring though, I've got no idea of what size increments seals come in and would have to do something with the piston to take up the extra diameter.
    All starts to sound like a lot of work, so I've started looking around for a more suitable cylinder.

    Steve

  3. #48
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    Apr 2012
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    Might chew up a bit of time but you could make decent press cylinder.
    You have the tools, you might need to make up a larger fixed steady to hold the tube
    for facing and chamfering.

  4. #49
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    Nov 2017
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    Did a bit of measuring today...
    If I cut it down to remove the badly corroded section then it would be around 300mm long I'd only end up with 130mm ram travel - so that's not a viable option.
    I'd like at least 300mm travel, so need around 500mm of good cylinder. Means either boring it and sorting out the seals/piston to make it work, or buying some material and making a new cylinder sleeve (and using the same piston).

    Bore is 5.5" (140mm). I can get new 5.5" tube for $436/m for finished (honed) material from Hydraulic Steels. They cut to size so I'd likely be looking $300 or so for a 500mm piece by the time it got to me.
    I'd still need to machine the thread etc for the rod gland/cap and then weld the sleeve to the other end cap - as well as replace all the seals. It would pretty much be a new condition cylinder though, for around $400 all up.

    Food for thought....

    Shed - you're right about the fixed steady. The one I've got won't even take 150mm diameter so would have to make one up.

    Out of interest, how would you suggest I bored it if I decided to go that route? It would be 400mm bore length, 500 outside diameter and I've got 1m between chuck face and toolpost with the saddle at the end of the bed.
    Deepest I've bored was about 150, and I'm guessing that 400 from the one end would need a substantial boring bar for rigidity.
    Boring half from each end would need a much shorter bar, but what are the chances of actually getting a decent result?

    Steve

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    jilliby nsw
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    111

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    Steve, Not sure of what your working with but could you remove the fixed end and turn cylinder around and put a thread in the rusted end for the gland nut and re weld the fixed end on. Would that give you any more good usable cylinder? to get a longer stroke. Just a thought

  6. #51
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by hpa1 View Post
    Steve, Not sure of what your working with but could you remove the fixed end and turn cylinder around and put a thread in the rusted end for the gland nut and re weld the fixed end on. Would that give you any more good usable cylinder? to get a longer stroke. Just a thought
    And a very good thought too! I'll have a look...

    Steve

  7. #52
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    Bugger - that still only gives me about 160 travel.

    Steve

  8. #53
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Steve I dont know the history of this cyl, someone gave it to me ages ago so it is no doubt in need of repair.
    It has a 5 5/8" OD and maybe a 1 ft stroke, it is a heavy sucker.
    If this suits i will have closer look at it
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #54
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    Thanks Shed - definitely looks about the right size.
    Hold off on dragging it out for a closer look at the moment as I've got a lead on one locally. Will let you know how I go....

    Steve

  10. #55
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default Workshop press build - hydraulic questions

    All good - I’ve got another cylinder. It’s got nice looking oil in it this time instead of 3mm high rust trees like the last one.
    5” bore, 2.5” rod and about 400 mm stroke.

    I’ll need to make a new rod as the chrome is worn off a large section, but I’ve got a couple of longer lengths of used 2.5” rod with just minor wear so should be able to find a suitable section to use.
    Worn section is visible in the second photo.






    Steve

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Steve,

    I've seen cylinders where the piston rod is totally black for most of its working length. The only chrome bits were at the top and bottom where the piston is fastened on. Yours looks quite respectable in comparison.

    At least you wont have to start cleaning the rust out
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Don't forgot, with a press the oil at the bottom of the piston that is in contact with the rod and rod seal will really only see very small pressures after a return stroke from pressing.

    So it does not necessarily need to be pristine.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #58
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    Good point Simon. If I didn't already have some rod here I'd just run it as is.

    I'd also like to make it a fraction longer and put a thread in the end - so I can have interchangable ends/faces.
    Might be overkill, but opens up a few options to fit a smaller diameter end rather than juggling a length of rod etc, attaching a top die so it lifts with the ram, or even using it for light pulling work.

    Steve

  14. #59
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    Jun 2011
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    Australia east coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Out of interest, how would you suggest I bored it if I decided to go that route? It would be 400mm bore length, 500 outside diameter and I've got 1m between chuck face and toolpost with the saddle at the end of the bed.
    Deepest I've bored was about 150, and I'm guessing that 400 from the one end would need a substantial boring bar for rigidity.
    Boring half from each end would need a much shorter bar, but what are the chances of actually getting a decent result?

    Steve
    I know how I'd do it - stick it in V blocks on the horizontal boring mill & set it in gear. That's pretty much what a HBM is designed for.

    But that doesn't help you.

    I'd go for a 4" diameter or bigger boring bar, could be a Sched 80 pipe, with an adjustable cutter in it, long enough to pass clear through. Take off the compound slide assy and make a custom clamp setup to hold the boring bar and have at it. Chatter is going to be your enemy so think about filling the pipe with lead shot or similar to dampen vibration.

    Frankly unless it was the last one left on the planet I'd spend the money & buy the tube. After you waste hours setting it up & finding chatter makes the bore look like a bad dirt road, you'll end up there anyway. It'll be quicker and a lot less painful to skip the intermediate aggravation steps.

    PDW

  15. #60
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    Nov 2017
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    Thanks PDW - I'd pretty much come to the same conclusion that I'd be better to fork the dollars and buy the tube than mess about trying to bore it. Too much work on the edge of the work size envelope for my lathe, with an uncertain outcome.
    And that was just from the aspect of actually getting it bored, aside from having to mess with either making a new piston or getting creative with taking up the extra clearance from boring.

    Thinking about it some more, if I really had to bore it with what I've got (or could practically construct) I'd look at having a boring bar that could be supported at both ends. Most likely with the sleeve static and rotating the bar.

    Thankfully I've now got a usable cylinder so don't have to worry about it or spend the dollars on a new sleeve...

    Steve

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