Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 39 of 39
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

    Default

    If you do have to adjust the bearings as mentioned by droog and several others, and do need to restrain the washer from turning, use a tab washer of the correct size and thickness. A tab washer has a projecting tab on one side like these:
    https://www.amazon.com/1500pcs-Stain.../dp/B00SXFA1WG.
    Some have multiple tabs, but work the same way.

    After the bearings have been installed and the nut backed off by the recommended amount, and the split pin is in place, bend the tab up so it firmly contacts one of the flats on the nut. This secures the washer to the nut, which cannot become loose because the split pin prevents it from moving.

    this was a commonly used system on twenties English cars. I remember it particularly from working on Austin 7s 60 odd years ago, where tab washers were used in several locations.

    Frank.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Windsor
    Age
    44
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Ace,

    Having seen the pictures you posted, it does make me wonder why you are making it so hard for yourself !

    As has been said by others, including me, just file the appropriate slot in the nut castelations a millimetre deeper and put a new split pin in there. Job done !
    I am tiny bit hesitant to drill a bigger hole. That's it.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Windsor
    Age
    44
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by franco View Post
    If you do have to adjust the bearings as mentioned by droog and several others, and do need to restrain the washer from turning, use a tab washer of the correct size and thickness. A tab washer has a projecting tab on one side like these:
    https://www.amazon.com/1500pcs-Stain.../dp/B00SXFA1WG.
    Some have multiple tabs, but work the same way.

    After the bearings have been installed and the nut backed off by the recommended amount, and the split pin is in place, bend the tab up so it firmly contacts one of the flats on the nut. This secures the washer to the nut, which cannot become loose because the split pin prevents it from moving.

    this was a commonly used system on twenties English cars. I remember it particularly from working on Austin 7s 60 odd years ago, where tab washers were used in several locations.

    Frank.
    Wow never heard about this. But know it makes sense why I saw some of the tap washer. The question is how big are the taps in a 1 inch inner diameter washer. And the problem with the gauge might still exist. I will definitely look into it. Thank you very much

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    303

    Default

    If you are patient , and have the time, lay the washer on a sheet of fine 'emery' paper on a flat surface and rub it back and forwards for as long as it takes to reduce the thickness. I know that can take a long time, but if you dont have any tools, at least its a way.
    Alternatively, lay it on a flat 'bastard' file and do the same.
    I assume you dont have a flat fine cut file, so the initial suggestion applies, unless you can buy a file.

    I also suggest you replace the split pins. The ones you removed look pretty "ratshit"

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Windsor
    Age
    44
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    You need to do some research about standards used in your location.

    Here in Australia there are primarily two standard setups used for aftermarket trailer axles, that is either Holden or Ford wheel bearings, both are tapered bearings and use no spacer, preload is set by tightening the nut to a point and then backing it off, often 90 degrees.
    As each setup only use one particular bearing and are non interchangeable all the dimensions are set.

    The only way we would end up with the situation you have is, incorrect seating of bearing shells or incorrect manufacture os the stub or hubs.

    Did you install the bearing shells ?, and what is the part number of the bearings ? It should be marked on the outer surface of the bearings.

    Of course being in another country YMMV.
    This is a point which confuses me. I watch regularly an Aussi YT channel about boat restoration, oytboareer repair etc and one episode describes the changing of hubs with bearings. And I was surprised that you do it use a washer. I am still do not know what the difference to North America is. Here nearly everybody uses a washer. However when I compare the system's I do not see much difference.
    My bearing number is L 44643 and cup L 44610.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Windsor
    Age
    44
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Briangoldcoast View Post
    If you are patient , and have the time, lay the washer on a sheet of fine 'emery' paper on a flat surface and rub it back and forwards for as long as it takes to reduce the thickness. I know that can take a long time, but if you dont have any tools, at least its a way.
    Alternatively, lay it on a flat 'bastard' file and do the same.
    I assume you dont have a flat fine cut file, so the initial suggestion applies, unless you can buy a file.

    I also suggest you replace the split pins. The ones you removed look pretty "ratshit"
    Thank you! Which grit would you recommend? I am new to metal work so I have slowly take my time to built up my tool box and get more knowledge . Which flat fine cut file would you recommend?
    I have some welding in front of me too and unfortunately no plan how to do it....

    Once again thank you very much

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Windsor
    Age
    44
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Back in post 24 i suggested that there may be a spacer
    between the bearings. As there is no flat or slot on
    the shaft to retain the washer from spinning this indicates
    to me that there may be a spacer, if there is a spacer
    the nut needs to be tightened and NOT backed off, in the
    same way as doing up the nut on a hub on a front wheel drive.
    Before you can repair something you must know how it works,
    Thank you for your advise. The washer which they sell here are either very thin like paper thin or thick 1/8 inch. There is nothing in between. Since there is the possibility not to use a washer I do not see the importance of preventing it from spinning....

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ace99 View Post
    Wow never heard about this. But know it makes sense why I saw some of the tap washer. The question is how big are the taps in a 1 inch inner diameter washer. And the problem with the gauge might still exist. I will definitely look into it. Thank you very much
    There are many variations in tab numbers and sizes. Some are much narrower than the example. If a tab is too long just cut it to a suitable length.

    Frank.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    60
    Posts
    419

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ace99 View Post
    This is a point which confuses me. I watch regularly an Aussi YT channel about boat restoration, oytboareer repair etc and one episode describes the changing of hubs with bearings. And I was surprised that you do it use a washer. I am still do not know what the difference to North America is. Here nearly everybody uses a washer. However when I compare the system's I do not see much difference.
    My bearing number is L 44643 and cup L 44610.

    From that information the bearings appear to be fairly standard for your part of the world and used on axles rated 1000-2000 lbs, the standard replacement washer is the same as you have and the axles you have do not fit any of the lock washers.
    If you installed the bearing cups and are certain that they are correctly seated the only thing I can see is that the axles were machined and drilled for use without a washer. The castellated nut you have is also not as deep as what we have here.
    I would be drilling a new hole for the split pin at 90 degrees from where it is, the split pin is only yo stop the nut from rotating and loads at that point on the axle are minimal.

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Similar Threads

  1. Bronze bushes - split. (2 halves)
    By eskimo in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 20th Sep 2019, 12:38 PM
  2. Parts washer for a hand washer?
    By j3dprints in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 18th Mar 2018, 09:14 AM
  3. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 18th Jul 2009, 12:40 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •