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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

    Default

    My hose connector was printed in ABS using an Ender. Quiet enough to have it running next to the computer without being annoying. I am far from an expert but for the price I am very happy.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    What to buy as a first printer is a real PIA, I watched many youtube reviews and was still non the wiser, certain comments made by reviewers stuck in my mind and I did up end with a list of things I thought important and these related to the stability of the printer as this seems to have a bearing on the quality of the final print. One reviewer commented that a single central guide rail for the bed was more modern than a pair in linear rails - this didn't ring true with me. I settled on an Anycubic Mega S because the over head gantry supporting the print head was welded steel and all movable axes had twin guide rails - I figured the basic construction of the printer would be the hardest thing to mod or change if I found a need to. It's only been a few weeks and not enough time to see if my choice was a wise one, I use the free version of Fusion360 which has an inbuilt slicer so I can go from the 3d drawing to the final G-Code all within Fusion.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Werribee, Melbourne
    Posts
    177

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    Another amateur here - I am using one of the Cocoon Create Touch printers that Aldi had a couple of years back (it is a rebranded Wanhou Duplicator I3Plus).
    This has a limited print area (200mm x 200mm x 180mm) but has been straight forward to set-up and use.
    To date I have only printed PLA - for design software I have been using Freecad but only because the old Mac OS I'm limited to didn't run the free version of Fusion360.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    I don't even have auto bed leveling yet.
    This is something I've never quite understood the point of (assuming you mean multiple point/mesh leveling). I just can't get my head around what exactly it's trying to achieve, and when I looked I haven't been able to find much detail about how exactly it's executed.

    I know it probes the bed in multiple places, that I get. But then most literature suggests it dynamically adjusts the Z as it goes to keep the nozzle distance the same, and doesn't mention if/when it stops doing this.

    So does that then mean, if I have (for exaggeration) a 2mm depression in the middle of my bed, and I print a cube on it, that the top of my cube has a 2mm depression in it that matches the bed?

    What about if the bed is perfectly flat, but out of tram, lets say the left side is 2mm lower than the right. If I print a cube, does it compensate for the fact that the Z direction of the print should actually be angled slightly to the left, and shift layers incrementally to achieve this, or do I just end up with a parallelogram?

    As far I've been able to work out, it seems most likely that yes, the top of the print matches the bed, and I'd get a parallelogram. Seems pretty undesirable to me, but the documentation is muddy at best as to the details.

    I've spent a bit of time trying to figure out what it actually does because I do actually have the ability to set it up, I added a BL Touch to mine as part of the upgrades. Which was an awesome upgrade from the Z axis limit switch, as the old microswitch was never 100% repeatable - and doesn't compensate for different bed temps or build surfaces. Lots of killed prints half way through the first layer, especially if it was a different day to the last print I did - think the old thin plywood frame moved a lot with humidity and temperature.

    The BL Touch is set to probe the centre of my bed when the axises all home, and that happens AFTER bed heating, so it's always spot on to where the bed is for whatever you're printing. For example, normally I run polycarb at 140 degrees on the glass bed, but TPE doesn't use any heat, and sticks amazingly well to brown packing tape. So I just stuck a single strip of packing tape across the middle of the build plate (small part), and hit go, let the BL Touch work it out!

    I've leveled the bed a grand total of twice since I installed the BL Touch - once when I first put it back together, and once when I changed the bearings under the Y carriage. Just leveled with a bit of paper as a feeler gauge, but a test indicator would be far easier and quicker, need get round to printing a little holder that works with my extruder carriage.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    So does that then mean, if I have (for exaggeration) a 2mm depression in the middle of my bed, and I print a cube on it, that the top of my cube has a 2mm depression in it that matches the bed?
    No(As I understand it, bearing in mind I have only seen a couple of videos on it and don't have it). There is a height setting(or maybe a layer number?) in marlin*. The auto bed leveling is removed by that height. So in this example you would have a cube with a flat top.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    What about if the bed is perfectly flat, but out of tram, lets say the left side is 2mm lower than the right. If I print a cube, does it compensate for the fact that the Z direction of the print should actually be angled slightly to the left, and shift layers incrementally to achieve this, or do I just end up with a parallelogram?
    No it won't be a parallelogram. but then it wont be a cube either. the top corners will all be square but the bottom one will be out and the side will be different lengths.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    I've spent a bit of time trying to figure out what it actually does because I do actually have the ability to set it up, I added a BL Touch to mine as part of the upgrades. Which was an awesome upgrade from the Z axis limit switch, as the old microswitch was never 100% repeatable - and doesn't compensate for different bed temps or build surfaces. Lots of killed prints half way through the first layer, especially if it was a different day to the last print I did - think the old thin plywood frame moved a lot with humidity and temperature.

    The BL Touch is set to probe the centre of my bed when the axises all home, and that happens AFTER bed heating, so it's always spot on to where the bed is for whatever you're printing. For example, normally I run polycarb at 140 degrees on the glass bed, but TPE doesn't use any heat, and sticks amazingly well to brown packing tape. So I just stuck a single strip of packing tape across the middle of the build plate (small part), and hit go, let the BL Touch work it out!

    I've leveled the bed a grand total of twice since I installed the BL Touch - once when I first put it back together, and once when I changed the bearings under the Y carriage. Just leveled with a bit of paper as a feeler gauge, but a test indicator would be far easier and quicker, need get round to printing a little holder that works with my extruder carriage.
    Going to have to steal that DTI indicator idea. I had a little trouble getting my glass bed level and that would have made life much easier.

    I haven't rally had much of an issue with level yet but then I have only printed one thing that was the full width of the bed and it was only 50mm or so wide, can't remember what it was at the minute.

    Have to duck out I will try and find the video I got this info from later.

    *(it is marlin that hands bed leveling right?)

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    No(As I understand it, bearing in mind I have only seen a couple of videos on it and don't have it). There is a height setting(or maybe a layer number?) in marlin*. The auto bed leveling is removed by that height. So in this example you would have a cube with a flat top.
    AHA! I just did a quick poke on Google, and the first article mentioned a setting I've never seen discussed before, ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT. This was actually how I originally assumed it would work, but have never seen any discussion of enabling or adjusting that parameter before.

    In which case it makes a lot more sense, but I'm still of the mindset that it seems like a bit of a kludge really... If your beds out of level, why not just level the bloody thing rather than deliberately skewing the bottom of the print. If the level drifts over time, fix the issue with your frame. If the bed is lumpy enough to cause first layer issues, find a flatter one.... Dunno, probably just me.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    589

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    CAD - TurboCAD 2018 Platinum Pro
    Slicing - Ultimaker Cura 4.6
    Printer - Ender 3

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    In which case it makes a lot more sense, but I'm still of the mindset that it seems like a bit of a kludge really... If your beds out of level, why not just level the bloody thing rather than deliberately skewing the bottom of the print. If the level drifts over time, fix the issue with your frame. If the bed is lumpy enough to cause first layer issues, find a flatter one.... Dunno, probably just me.
    I believe some beds aren't so great at staying flat over time. I assume the bigger the bed the more likely issues are to show up. While I agree it doesn't seem to be much of an issue, maybe some find making the required adjustments just to time consuming?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    12

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    I designed some stands for SK40-toolholders, so they stop rolling around
    IMG190542.jpgIMG153101.jpg
    Even though I made them some time ago, I just uploaded them on thingyverse:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558817

    I also had a try on these toolholders: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3688951
    ...but I didn't like the boltholes to be at the bottom. Could be modified, but I didn't do that yet...


    Printing the ER32 collet-rack that Steve suggested right now and probably having a try on index-plates next.
    Great ideas!

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Salisbury SA
    Age
    66
    Posts
    17

    Default NT30 Arbor Draw Holders

    Hi All,
    Well my prime reason for purchasing a 3D printer was to make some holders for my nt30 arbors in the rollcab draw, this was to stop them rolling around every time I opened or closed the draw.

    I watched a LOT of YouTube videos about how to use Fusion 360, so I proceeded to draft up some models of the arbors 1st, then a holder with the arbors embedded, did some more pressing & pulling then some fillets, a little bit of text (on the new versions) .

    I then exported the STL files to PrusaSlicer to make them into G-Code and copied the G-Codes onto an SD card for the printer.

    I used a bit of colour for each different style of arbor (ER20, ER32, Boring Head ... etc)

    Enter some pics;
    Stage 1 was just arbors rolling around all over the place

    Stage 2 has some kitchen type trays from IKEA that were cut down to fit.
    Mill Arbors-02.jpg

    Stage 3, nearly there ............
    Mill Arbors-03.jpg

    Prusa Mk3S printing the last holder
    Mill Arbors-01.jpg


    Stage 4, complete (until the OCD gets the better of me and I start printing all over with the new models I have done)
    Mill Arbors-04.jpg

    Now to look in the other draws and ponder over a beer what to design & print next.

    Cheers

    Peter (SA)

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    You’ve done an awesome job there Peter!

    I’m at stage 1 with them rolling around in the drawer - but mine are 40 taper..

    Steve

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

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    After a couple of years or sitting doing nothing I have resurrected my Prusa i3 Mk2 and got it printing again. Just printing out some measuring cups at the moment.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Anyone here with a printer that can do a 260 x 130 x 30mm (ABS or PLA)?
    I'm helping a friend restore a 1983 Honda CX650Turbo (very rare, no spares available). I borrowed a fairing grill from an enthusiast in Holland, tried to model it in Fusion360, failed miserably, had it commercially (and expensively) scanned and now have the STL file for it. But it is a bit too big for my printer.... I'll make a longer bed for it one day...
    Black ABS is preferred, but I could sand and paint PLA. I'm happy to do all the post processing, including removing supports etc. The back cross-hatching of the grille is flat and would be sitting on the bed. There are two grills, mirror images of each other - both STL files are available, of course.
    Commercial printing services are just too expensive....
    PM me if you can do it and are prepared to print them for me for a reasonable fee.
    CX650T outlet 64237-ME7-000 front.JPG CX650T outlet 1back.JPG
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Newcastle, AU
    Posts
    238

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    I have printed 305mm objects on my bed before - send me the files and I will see if I can make it fit. PM sent.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    I am not sure if that object would be possible to print. Especially in ABS, which loves to warp.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

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