Results 31 to 45 of 48
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25th Jul 2020, 11:18 AM #31Golden Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2019
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 589
My hose connector was printed in ABS using an Ender. Quiet enough to have it running next to the computer without being annoying. I am far from an expert but for the price I am very happy.
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25th Jul 2020, 11:40 AM #32Golden Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 574
What to buy as a first printer is a real PIA, I watched many youtube reviews and was still non the wiser, certain comments made by reviewers stuck in my mind and I did up end with a list of things I thought important and these related to the stability of the printer as this seems to have a bearing on the quality of the final print. One reviewer commented that a single central guide rail for the bed was more modern than a pair in linear rails - this didn't ring true with me. I settled on an Anycubic Mega S because the over head gantry supporting the print head was welded steel and all movable axes had twin guide rails - I figured the basic construction of the printer would be the hardest thing to mod or change if I found a need to. It's only been a few weeks and not enough time to see if my choice was a wise one, I use the free version of Fusion360 which has an inbuilt slicer so I can go from the 3d drawing to the final G-Code all within Fusion.
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25th Jul 2020, 02:06 PM #33Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- Werribee, Melbourne
- Posts
- 177
Another amateur here - I am using one of the Cocoon Create Touch printers that Aldi had a couple of years back (it is a rebranded Wanhou Duplicator I3Plus).
This has a limited print area (200mm x 200mm x 180mm) but has been straight forward to set-up and use.
To date I have only printed PLA - for design software I have been using Freecad but only because the old Mac OS I'm limited to didn't run the free version of Fusion360.
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25th Jul 2020, 02:40 PM #34I break stuff...
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Toorloo Arm, VIC
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 1,270
This is something I've never quite understood the point of (assuming you mean multiple point/mesh leveling). I just can't get my head around what exactly it's trying to achieve, and when I looked I haven't been able to find much detail about how exactly it's executed.
I know it probes the bed in multiple places, that I get. But then most literature suggests it dynamically adjusts the Z as it goes to keep the nozzle distance the same, and doesn't mention if/when it stops doing this.
So does that then mean, if I have (for exaggeration) a 2mm depression in the middle of my bed, and I print a cube on it, that the top of my cube has a 2mm depression in it that matches the bed?
What about if the bed is perfectly flat, but out of tram, lets say the left side is 2mm lower than the right. If I print a cube, does it compensate for the fact that the Z direction of the print should actually be angled slightly to the left, and shift layers incrementally to achieve this, or do I just end up with a parallelogram?
As far I've been able to work out, it seems most likely that yes, the top of the print matches the bed, and I'd get a parallelogram. Seems pretty undesirable to me, but the documentation is muddy at best as to the details.
I've spent a bit of time trying to figure out what it actually does because I do actually have the ability to set it up, I added a BL Touch to mine as part of the upgrades. Which was an awesome upgrade from the Z axis limit switch, as the old microswitch was never 100% repeatable - and doesn't compensate for different bed temps or build surfaces. Lots of killed prints half way through the first layer, especially if it was a different day to the last print I did - think the old thin plywood frame moved a lot with humidity and temperature.
The BL Touch is set to probe the centre of my bed when the axises all home, and that happens AFTER bed heating, so it's always spot on to where the bed is for whatever you're printing. For example, normally I run polycarb at 140 degrees on the glass bed, but TPE doesn't use any heat, and sticks amazingly well to brown packing tape. So I just stuck a single strip of packing tape across the middle of the build plate (small part), and hit go, let the BL Touch work it out!
I've leveled the bed a grand total of twice since I installed the BL Touch - once when I first put it back together, and once when I changed the bearings under the Y carriage. Just leveled with a bit of paper as a feeler gauge, but a test indicator would be far easier and quicker, need get round to printing a little holder that works with my extruder carriage.
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25th Jul 2020, 03:41 PM #35Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 9,088
No(As I understand it, bearing in mind I have only seen a couple of videos on it and don't have it). There is a height setting(or maybe a layer number?) in marlin*. The auto bed leveling is removed by that height. So in this example you would have a cube with a flat top.
No it won't be a parallelogram. but then it wont be a cube either. the top corners will all be square but the bottom one will be out and the side will be different lengths.
Going to have to steal that DTI indicator idea. I had a little trouble getting my glass bed level and that would have made life much easier.
I haven't rally had much of an issue with level yet but then I have only printed one thing that was the full width of the bed and it was only 50mm or so wide, can't remember what it was at the minute.
Have to duck out I will try and find the video I got this info from later.
*(it is marlin that hands bed leveling right?)
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25th Jul 2020, 04:08 PM #36I break stuff...
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Toorloo Arm, VIC
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 1,270
AHA! I just did a quick poke on Google, and the first article mentioned a setting I've never seen discussed before, ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT. This was actually how I originally assumed it would work, but have never seen any discussion of enabling or adjusting that parameter before.
In which case it makes a lot more sense, but I'm still of the mindset that it seems like a bit of a kludge really... If your beds out of level, why not just level the bloody thing rather than deliberately skewing the bottom of the print. If the level drifts over time, fix the issue with your frame. If the bed is lumpy enough to cause first layer issues, find a flatter one.... Dunno, probably just me.
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25th Jul 2020, 04:28 PM #37Golden Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2019
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 589
CAD - TurboCAD 2018 Platinum Pro
Slicing - Ultimaker Cura 4.6
Printer - Ender 3
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25th Jul 2020, 04:57 PM #38Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 9,088
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2nd Aug 2020, 05:50 AM #39Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2020
- Location
- Germany
- Posts
- 12
I designed some stands for SK40-toolholders, so they stop rolling around
IMG190542.jpgIMG153101.jpg
Even though I made them some time ago, I just uploaded them on thingyverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4558817
I also had a try on these toolholders: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3688951
...but I didn't like the boltholes to be at the bottom. Could be modified, but I didn't do that yet...
Printing the ER32 collet-rack that Steve suggested right now and probably having a try on index-plates next.
Great ideas!
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19th Aug 2020, 07:23 PM #40
NT30 Arbor Draw Holders
Hi All,
Well my prime reason for purchasing a 3D printer was to make some holders for my nt30 arbors in the rollcab draw, this was to stop them rolling around every time I opened or closed the draw.
I watched a LOT of YouTube videos about how to use Fusion 360, so I proceeded to draft up some models of the arbors 1st, then a holder with the arbors embedded, did some more pressing & pulling then some fillets, a little bit of text (on the new versions) .
I then exported the STL files to PrusaSlicer to make them into G-Code and copied the G-Codes onto an SD card for the printer.
I used a bit of colour for each different style of arbor (ER20, ER32, Boring Head ... etc)
Enter some pics;
Stage 1 was just arbors rolling around all over the place
Stage 2 has some kitchen type trays from IKEA that were cut down to fit.
Mill Arbors-02.jpg
Stage 3, nearly there ............
Mill Arbors-03.jpg
Prusa Mk3S printing the last holder
Mill Arbors-01.jpg
Stage 4, complete (until the OCD gets the better of me and I start printing all over with the new models I have done)
Mill Arbors-04.jpg
Now to look in the other draws and ponder over a beer what to design & print next.
Cheers
Peter (SA)
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20th Aug 2020, 12:16 AM #41Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2017
- Location
- Geelong, Australia
- Age
- 57
- Posts
- 2,651
You’ve done an awesome job there Peter!
I’m at stage 1 with them rolling around in the drawer - but mine are 40 taper..
Steve
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17th Mar 2021, 12:27 PM #42Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 6,216
After a couple of years or sitting doing nothing I have resurrected my Prusa i3 Mk2 and got it printing again. Just printing out some measuring cups at the moment.
Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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18th Mar 2021, 12:36 AM #43
Anyone here with a printer that can do a 260 x 130 x 30mm (ABS or PLA)?
I'm helping a friend restore a 1983 Honda CX650Turbo (very rare, no spares available). I borrowed a fairing grill from an enthusiast in Holland, tried to model it in Fusion360, failed miserably, had it commercially (and expensively) scanned and now have the STL file for it. But it is a bit too big for my printer.... I'll make a longer bed for it one day...
Black ABS is preferred, but I could sand and paint PLA. I'm happy to do all the post processing, including removing supports etc. The back cross-hatching of the grille is flat and would be sitting on the bed. There are two grills, mirror images of each other - both STL files are available, of course.
Commercial printing services are just too expensive....
PM me if you can do it and are prepared to print them for me for a reasonable fee.
CX650T outlet 64237-ME7-000 front.JPG CX650T outlet 1back.JPGCheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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18th Mar 2021, 07:07 AM #44Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2019
- Location
- Newcastle, AU
- Posts
- 238
I have printed 305mm objects on my bed before - send me the files and I will see if I can make it fit. PM sent.
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18th Mar 2021, 08:11 AM #45Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 6,216
I am not sure if that object would be possible to print. Especially in ABS, which loves to warp.
Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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