Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 61 to 75 of 104
  1. #61
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    Thanks BaronJ. Will definitely shim it to get the existing one working, then once I have that done I’ll figure out a way to make a new one.

    I cannot lock the table with the gib, so clearly it needs attention and if I scrape in the table too, it’s only going to get worse.

    I was checking options and wondering if I could also Turcite the gib? Would that be expoxied to the sliding surface and scraped in?

    Why is cast iron not available as a raw material to make a gib from scratch? Not saying I could do it, I would have no idea how to set all those angles up without a mag chuck and surface grinder Try and repair or learn to live with it?

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Fixed it for you
    Table Left
    Right: 0.03mm
    Left: 0.07mm

    Table Middle
    Right: 0.05mm
    Left: 0.12mm

    Table right
    Right: 0.16mm
    Left: 0.16mm


    Well thats another 17% gone

    But your numbers are getting low enough that its getting hard to take a guess at whats going on.
    Tempted to say "forget the numbers you have taken. Don't look at them again. Do the same tests again tomorrow, then check against these numbers and see if you get close the same.
    Its possible the gib is fat in the middle. So you could add a measurement in the middle off the table while you were at it.

    Not sure making a new gib is worth the effort if you aren't going to scrape rest of the ways first.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Stustoys; I’m almost certain I’m going to scrape the ways. I’m just waiting on some parts to come in so I can properly test what’s going on. I have a surface plate coming so I can check the taper on the gib, plus have some precision dowel pins on their way too so I can measure the dovetails.

    Also playing around this evening unnoticed another problem with the gib. With a single screw to lock the gib it’s moving. When you screw the table in the gib moves in, when you wind the table out it’s moving out.

    I checked it with the indicator (can’t get the indicator straight so this number will be lower than actual):



    That’s 0.9mm Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    If I haven’t done all my testing in the same direction that would definitely change the readings too.

    I can’t find a way to lock the gib from the other end but I think I can add another screw to the same end to act in the same way maybe?

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    I was checking options and wondering if I could also Turcite the gib? Would that be expoxied to the sliding surface and scraped in?
    Not that I know much about Turcite but.
    I guess you could. it would depend how thick the thin end of your gib was.
    It would(or why would you bother using Turcite?)
    Not so sure how cheap it would be though.


    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Why is cast iron not available as a raw material to make a gib from scratch? Not saying I could do it, I would have no idea how to set all those angles up without a mag chuck and surface grinder Try and repair or learn to live with it?
    Its just a question of money or bing in the right place at the right time(ty Greg). You can get it.
    I've made one with a slitting saw on a mill and scraped it in. Did not enjoy it much lol

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    Stustoys; I’m almost certain I’m going to scrape the ways. I’m just waiting on some parts to come in so I can properly test what’s going on. I have a surface plate coming so I can check the taper on the gib, plus have some precision dowel pins on their way too so I can measure the dovetails.

    Also playing around this evening unnoticed another problem with the gib. With a single screw to lock the gib it’s moving. When you screw the table in the gib moves in, when you wind the table out it’s moving out.

    I checked it with the indicator (can’t get the indicator straight so this number will be lower than actual):



    That’s 0.9mm Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    If I haven’t done all my testing in the same direction that would definitely change the readings too.

    I can’t find a way to lock the gib from the other end but I think I can add another screw to the same end to act in the same way maybe?

    I tested the Y axis with my DRO and the indicator. Not as bad but still moving:



    Edit: looks like this is a common problem.

    https://rick.sparber.org/GR.pdf

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,443

    Default

    Hi Neevo, Guys,

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Thanks BaronJ. Will definitely shim it to get the existing one working, then once I have that done I’ll figure out a way to make a new one.

    I cannot lock the table with the gib, so clearly it needs attention and if I scrape in the table too, it’s only going to get worse.

    I was checking options and wondering if I could also Turcite the gib? Would that be expoxied to the sliding surface and scraped in?

    Why is cast iron not available as a raw material to make a gib from scratch? Not saying I could do it, I would have no idea how to set all those angles up without a mag chuck and surface grinder Try and repair or learn to live with it?
    The Idea of having a screw at both ends of the gib is to stop the gib movement changing the table clearances.
    As far as Turcite is concerned, I have no idea. However I would not put it on the gib strip.

    There is plenty of cast iron about but its not usually in the size or shape that is useful for this job. I know a guy that used Acetal plastic to make a gib for a slide. I don't know if it was tapered or not. A surface grinder and a mag chuck would make creating a new tapered gib easy, come to think about it a mag chuck would probably help on the mill as well, as long as precautions were taken to ensure the work couldn't move.

    One way you could help to control the gib movement would be to make a new screw with a thicker head.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    One way you could help to control the gib movement would be to make a new screw with a thicker head.
    That link above has a nifty way of adjusting the gib and then locking it in. I’m going to try and do something like that I think.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    9,088

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Stustoys; I’m almost certain I’m going to scrape the ways.
    Are you sure you know what you are getting into?

    Have you checked to see if that gib screw is bottoming?

    All I meant was, I think there should be little difference between your numbers in post 37 and post 58. Some of them are over 100% different. So there is more measuring to be done.

    Not sure what you are checking on the Y. Slop in the nut?

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Are you sure you know what you are getting into?

    Have you checked to see if that gib screw is bottoming?

    All I meant was, I think there should be little difference between your numbers in post 37 and post 58. Some of them are over 100% different. So there is more measuring to be done.

    Not sure what you are checking on the Y. Slop in the nut?
    Definitely don’t know what I’m getting in to Try and repair or learn to live with it? but I’m hopeful I can get the machine tighter, however that is done.

    I agree with the measurements. I’m still not sure what the problem is, so will definitely get that sorted before I put any scrapers on the machine.

    Agree with you; I need consistent measurements before progressing to the next stage.

    The gib bottoming is definitely the next thing to address. Will grab some shim stock so I can pull it out a bit before measuring again.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,443

    Default

    Hi Neevo, Guys,

    If it were me I would be getting some 5 thou shim stock and super glueing a piece to the back of the gib and re-measuring. Take the gib locks out completely, you don't want anything that could catch on the shim.

    It will be interesting to see how much that changes things.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Neevo, Guys,

    If it were me I would be getting some 5 thou shim stock and super glueing a piece to the back of the gib and re-measuring. Take the gib locks out completely, you don't want anything that could catch on the shim.

    It will be interesting to see how much that changes things.
    I’ll grab a pack of assorted shim stock. Would you go for brass or steel?

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,443

    Default

    Hi Neevo,

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    I’ll grab a pack of assorted shim stock. Would you go for brass or steel?
    Either ! Go for the least costly. But I think brass plays better with a steel surface, where steel in contact with steel might gall where the oil gets rubbed away. But for the back of the gib the only movement is going to be when you adjust it.

    Just a point of interest, have you noticed that there are no oil points on those table dovetails anywhere !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default

    There’s one on the front but it only appears to oil the back of the gib Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    I was going to put some oil grooves in the gib when I start the refurbishment so it hopefully holds a bit more than just a film.

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,443

    Default

    Hi Neevo,

    There aren’t any on my mill ! Or any obvious place to put any !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Neevo,

    There aren’t any on my mill ! Or any obvious place to put any !
    Do you have a similar mill?

    Edit: I got it wrong. Only Oiler is for the table slide.


Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. What did you learn today?
    By Stustoys in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 940
    Last Post: 28th Mar 2024, 01:17 PM
  2. The things you can learn when you try
    By Michael G in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 28th Feb 2016, 09:52 PM
  3. which tafe course to learn?
    By ftssjk in forum WELDING
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 2nd Jan 2012, 10:41 PM
  4. Where can i learn 6g tig welding??
    By Jullin in forum WELDING
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 5th Apr 2008, 11:53 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •