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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default Moving the Mill Problems

    Hi,

    Now the fun begins!

    I have to move the mill. Last time I did a really dodgy move with my BIL, basically we picked up the mill with the engine crane I have and moved it to a tailgate lift on a MR or HR truck, we then jerry-rigged the mill so it wouldn't fall off the tail lifter (it was really hairy and dangerous). Thankfully this time I can't fit a truck with a big enough tailgate lift down the side of the house towards the garage so that option isn't on.

    I was thinking of picking up the mill and putting on a low height trailer. Now the problem I have is I can't seem to lift it high enough. I took the head off and lifted it to approximately 52 cm (I did this yesterday by myself). I'm going to measure the height of a few available trailers today. But the problem I had is that once again it's a dodgy and potentially dangerous lift. The lift is literally the hook from the crane hooked onto a metal bar wedged into the cavity in the base of the mill where the head once was. The has the tendency to slip (which makes me jump). So I don't really want to lift it any higher and I haven't tried to move the mill around while it's suspended. I think the last time I moved it around I used roll bars.

    I seen the link to the Kennards hire gantry but the problem is the height of the garage roller door is 195 cm and there's a lip going up onto the slab.

    I don't really want to remove the the knee and table but I guess I might have to do that. I really need to get the mill and lathe into the new shed. I have always thought about making my own portable gantry - I wish I hadn't of procrastinated so much.

    Ben.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    I just had another look at that hire gantry crane. It looks like I could get it under my garage. Might be worth having a look at it.

    Ben.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Cut a couple of softwood wedges and put them either side of the chain, should stop the bar rolling, or at least minimise it.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Ben are your photos of the previous move or the current, if previous how far can a truck get too within the new location, does that mill weigh around 650/800 kg?

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I've recently moved my bandsaw and mill with some similar issues - here's a couple of techniques that might help.

    - If using a gantry with a moving carriage, to get over a lip/step in the concrete get the load close to the step, lower it to the ground, then span the step with the gantry and pack up the lower end of the gantry so its level again (make sure its level or the load will take on a life of its own once its raised and likely end badly). Raise the load and move it to the higher level by rolling the carriage, then lower it.

    - for up to 50mm step, pieces of particle board or MDF (with additional timber underneath if necessary) work well. A 6-8mm drop going forward is happily negotiated by 30mm pipe rollers or pallet jack, so for my 1700kg mill I got down the 30mm step in the concrete using reducing thicknesses of particle board/mdf.
    If using a couple of pieces of the same thickness to get distance, there's a chance that the load will push the unloaded piece away rather than rolling onto it which isn't good. Either tie them together somehow (outside the actual wheeling area) using eg screws and timber/metal strip, or make sure you cross the join at an angle. Its only an issue until you get some decent load onto the new piece.

    Steve

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    Well I went out to Kennards Lift and Shift depot. The gantry are big and heavy, but would work.

    The recent photo's are of what I did on Friday. Took the head off and did a trial lift.

    I can lift the mill with the head off about 50 cm. The mill weighs about 600 kgs all up.

    The biggest problem is that with the head off, it really is a dangerous lift. I'll make up some chocks this week to stop the hook moving when it's on the bar which is simply in the head cavity.

    At Kennards they had some new engine crane with counter balances but they weight about a tonne themselves (all modular so they could be broken down but that would be a lot of manual labour).

    Ben.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,996

    Default

    Ben thanks for the photos using the engine lift I'd considered getting one but thought reach height insufficient you've proved it will do what is required. Now to convince powers of the purse I need one.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Why not some Eye nuts onto your studs/bolts and a sling under the table?

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Why not some Eye nuts onto your studs/bolts and a sling under the table?
    I've been thinking about doing something like this but not really sure how to do it in the time I have left. The mill is at my parents and I'm 40 kms away and hopefully going back to work this week.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    A rigging/lifting supplier will have them on the shelf. Pack out under them with some scraps of soft metal with holes in them to take up the excess length. Triangulate the slinging off the three eye bolts, can be done with one sling and a couple of shackles.

    Alternatively get a piece of flat bar larger than the area the studs are in, drill holes in it to bolt it down using the studs, and tap a hole in the centre and put a male lifting eye into that, crane hook into that (may require a shackle) no other rigging required.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default In!

    Hi,

    Finally moved the mill and lathe!

    The lathe was easy enough (I've done it plenty of times - that's probably one of the best features of the Hercus lathe, it's light enough to move around).
    The mill at the end of the day was moved easy too. Simply did what I did last time. Took off the head and put a bar in the cavity, picked it up with my engine crane and put it on a car carrying trailer. Moved it around on the trailer with rollers and repeated at the other end.

    Lathe and Mill in their hopefully final places (my mate who helped move them said he's not coming back so make it good).

    Now to move everything else into place and get better lighting in there and make chips. We'll probably go back to work this week.

    Ben
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #57
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    If you find that they need to be moved it won't be such a drama, just use the engine lifter.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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