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Thread: Cinese Lathes

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Try a tool with an 80 degree insert instead of 60 degree, I find that the T-shape inserts don't do as well as C or W shape for facing cuts. Or you could spin the tool post around, to give a shallower cutting angle, but then you'll have to spin it back to turn along the work.

    I suspect it's just mild steel, 4140 shouldn't be looking like that, so, if you want a nice shiny finish, you gotta spin it fast.

    Thanks for the advice.



    1) The iscar insert was a TriGon (WNMG 06T304). It's end was actually worse than my triangle, but I was turning on medium speed (350rpm). The better end was high speed. Which, on my poor old Hercus, is 629rpm no load


    2) Last time I was having problems getting good surface finish, I tried round inserts (RPMW08).
    This was only cast iron, but it came out a lot better then whatever other tool I was using to rough out.
    I suspect there was some polishing occurring?


    3) You'll have to explain what you mean by shallower.
    Both my TNMG and WNMG holders have one very shallow angle, < 5° if the holder is in the usual place (perpendicular to centre line):
    93Deg-MTJNR-L-1616-H16-Tool-Holder-For-TNMG1604-Insert-Free-shipping-to-all-country.jpg
    If I face out from centre, my cutting angle is very shallow, but in the past that has burnt the carbide.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Guys to throw a curve ball in there how about a milling machine instead of the lathe? Its job will be to machine cylinder bores so if i do 3 bikes at the cost of repairing them 450 that milling machine will have paid for its self

    I am thinking about this one https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/M649 i can buy it on afterpay
    To small.
    At 210mm on the Z axis I doubt you will get the barrel and boring head to fit. Drill movement is about 50mm so its at least 2 maybe 3 goes at boring the depth you need. I bet every time you move the head to bore deeper it never lines back up to the accuracy you need to do this type of work.

    Tony

  3. #33
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    The Hercus you linked to has been bastardised, the motor should be at the back and the live side pulleys should extend up and above the chuck side pulleys. Caveat Emptor. 11 Hour road trip, I’d be passing on it.

    As for buying an optimum hobby mill with a view to paying for it by doing resleeve work, you probably need to read reviews and listen to what others here will tell you. I personally wouldn’t consider that machine as anything other than a hobby machine.

    If you are patient the right machine will appear at the right price.

    Edit: this appeared on my eBay, seems in reasonable Nic, and has some tooling, and is in the metro area.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HERCUS-9...sAAOSwogZedD1Y

  4. #34
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    Cheers guys so should i be looking at a lathe or milling machine? That mill machine i linked to has 50mm travel i need 90mm travel as that is the bores length

    The width is no problem its 60mm from side to center of bore

    I have no problem buying either a lathe or mill so long as it suits the job, i will do some reading around and more searching
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  5. #35
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    By "shallower" I mean you want that same 5-ish degree angle when you face as well, in other words, you want the cutting edge to be approximately perpendicular to the direction it's travelling. A WNMG holder of the same style should give you 5 degrees both ways, but that TNMG holder has a 27 degree approach angle when it's facing so that will change how it performs.

    Unfortunately, I don't think you're going to get a bright shiny finish in mild steel no matter what you use; 600rpm is simply not enough surface speed until you get close to 100mm diameter.

  6. #36
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    Quiet a big lathe would def suit my needs as to its size but is it a known brand lathe? Here is a pic
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  7. #37
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    280kg was too heavy, but now you're looking at that?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    280kg was too heavy, but now you're looking at that?
    280kg is to heavy to move into the garden shed, this lathe will be part of the back yard basically lift it off the trailer and leave it there under a tarp or build a enclosure around it

  9. #39
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    But didn’t you want mobile because you were renting?
    Leaving a lathe in the back yard under a tarp is pretty much a death sentence for it.

  10. #40
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    It'll be rusted scrap metal before long. Unless you build the shed around it. In which case you might as well crane something that doesn't look like it's covered in rust already.

  11. #41
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    Yeah the idea is to make room in the shed for now if it is a smaller lathe, if i end up with something gigantic like in that picture it may have to live on the trailer for a month or two untill i move house that is if my motor hike trailer (750kg) can carry it

  12. #42
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    My lathe weighs in at about 1200kgs and this is larger.

    Do you have 3 phase power? 3hp single phase is not going to cut it.

  13. #43
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    No 3 phase but i was told one time i could gear a single phase motor to put out clise to a 3 phase motors out put is that true?

    I found a sheraton 9" hercus knock off trying to see if its still available hard to go over and make the purchase in lock down

    Any idea if my hobbymat md65 is worth $500?

  14. #44
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    If I were moving house in a month or so, I wouldn’t be rushing out for another heavy lump of steel to move. I’d be keeping an eye on the ads until after I moved. It’d have to be a killer deal to convince me to move it twice in 2months.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    No 3 phase but i was told one time i could gear a single phase motor to put out clise to a 3 phase motors out put is that true?

    I found a sheraton 9" hercus knock off trying to see if its still available hard to go over and make the purchase in lock down

    Any idea if my hobbymat md65 is worth $500?
    Short answer, No.

    You can do your own Google fu to find out how gearing works and what the problems are.

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