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  1. #1
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    Default Modern hole saws

    I haven't bought a hole saw in at least 10, probably 15 years, and despite them being reasonable quality, (P&N mostly) some cut way over size, others a bit over size, none cut actual size.

    I need to make some slightly under 35mm holes (finished size) in thick steel, but they will to end up being finished with a boring bar & then a reamer.
    The less boring bar use the better, so my question is, how good are any of the three brands that are available in my town, at boring close to their stated size (32mm)?

    Diablo ($32 ) Kango ($28 ) Lenox ($18)

    I am a bit reluctant to try the Kango due to only 5tpi, so likely to chatter, or not??

  2. #2
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    Hi Phil
    Try Marvel MHE holesaws available through REXEL Electrical dealers. They are not cheap and may not be available in the exact size you want. They a more like a milling cutter.
    I have a variety of sizes that I need but the make a large variety.
    My 23mm one has done over 2000 holes in sheet steel without sharpening.

    Roger

  3. #3
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Hi Phil, I've found with holesaws, no matter what brand they cut slightly oversize, whether this is because the material isn't mounted rigidly enough, a bit of movement in the quill, or something else? I have noticed that most of them tend to go in an elliptical pattern as if the bore isn't quite centred or what I don't know, as I've never bothered checking to find out.
    Whether this'll work or not, but to use the next size down holesaw, having the metal mounted rigidly, change to the correct size saw, as it would then only be taking out a minimal amount.
    You haven't mentioned the size that it needs to be or the depth required, as this could/will change the method to cut the hole.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rogerbaker View Post
    Hi Phil
    Try Marvel MHE holesaws available through REXEL Electrical dealers. They are not cheap and may not be available in the exact size you want. They a more like a milling cutter.
    I have a variety of sizes that I need but the make a large variety.
    My 23mm one has done over 2000 holes in sheet steel without sharpening.

    Roger
    Thanks Roger, but those listed are the only ones available in town, so not a lot of choice.
    I only need to do 6 holes, so not looking to break the bank either

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Hi Phil,
    You haven't mentioned the size that it needs to be or the depth required, as this could/will change the method to cut the hole.
    Kryn
    The size is as stated in the O.P. (32mm) and depth will be 52mm, but I can go at it from both sides.

    The saw will be in the tail stock, and the piece in a 8" 4-jaw chuck, so as rigid as the lathe.
    As long as the saw hole doesn't hit 34mm I'm safe. Otherwise I have to go down to 30mm, which I am confident won't run out to 34mm in the lathe.

  6. #6
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    One of the nuisances with all hole saws is clearing swarf - to reduce this prob try drilling several 10mm holes just touching the inside Of the circumference. The more holes drilled the better.

    sorry can't comment on those particular holes saws you asked about. Pity you weren't a bit closer as you could borrow my set of rugged carbide tipped hole saws which are really good in these situation. The other way I drill big holes is borrow a big MT3 drill bits from where I used to work.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    One of the nuisances with all hole saws is clearing swarf - to reduce this prob try drilling several 10mm holes just touching the inside Of the circumference. The more holes drilled the better.
    That might be a plan. I think I had best play it safe and go for a 30mm saw, and a series of holes for swarf.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Out of interest - why the big reluctance for using the boring bar?
    Just a case of a small lathe not liking boring?

    Steve

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptrott View Post
    in thick steel
    Hmmm, wrong tool for the job IMO, sheet metal yes.

    I'd probably look at an annular cutter, but the price there will make you blush....and breaking one weep!

  10. #10
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    Honestly a twist drill would be a faster way of making the same hole. And can be got second hand cheap and sharpened. They will also get you close to reaming size off the bat.

  11. #11
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    A holesaw is not the weapon of choice for this (an annular cutter is a better choice, but still not one I would make). Attempting to bore a hole 50+mm deep with one is not going to end well. Several problems, you have no means of clearing the cutting debris (an annular cutter can at least achieve this with a sporting chance of success), most holesaws won’t cut that deep so you are forced to reverse the part (an annular cutter suffers the same issue unless you buy a ridiculous expensive long series one), doing so will cause a misaligned hole and likely exceed diameter. It can be done, but it will be frustrating and you will need to go down a size or two on the holesaw.

    I would bore the hole with the largest twist drill I have on hand below reaming size and use the boring bar to bring it to reaming size.

  12. #12
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    It must be blatantly obvious to anybody who has ever watched a chucked hole saw rotate, that is is not a precision cutting tool.

    After all is said and done the hole saw is of a stamped/ pressed construction ,made to loosely fit the driving mandrel it is made for.

    When an approach to the work being performed is dictated by cost, choosing the cheap option will generally mean quality and/or accuracy suffers.

    It took a good while as a home DIY/hobbyist to come to this conclusion, but it is true. Go cheap and often there is a downside.

    Grahame

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Out of interest - why the big reluctance for using the boring bar?
    Just a case of a small lathe not liking boring?

    Steve
    Just the volume of metal to be removed, and the fact that there will be a lot of stick-out to get through a 53mm deep hole. The more I can get out with the saw the better. If it were just a couple it would be different, but there are 6 to do.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    Honestly a twist drill would be a faster way of making the same hole. And can be got second hand cheap and sharpened. They will also get you close to reaming size off the bat.
    Would be nice, but there are none on ebay used, (that I could find) just new ones from China, and nothing is moving over there,....even Banggood suppliers are saying 2 months shipping time, but that could blow out too.
    No secondhand shops in this town unfortunately.

  15. #15
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    The amount of time it would take you to drill and bore a hole in your material would easily be much quicker than attempting to use a hole saw.

    For starters you would not need to have to setup your work piece twice.

    If you have apprehension as to your machines ability to drill and bore your hole you would have bucklys doing it with a hole saw or similar.

    If this is a paying job then sub it out.

    If this is not time dependent just enjoy making swarf.

    If any of the above are issues then reaming your hole is going to be another issue you will be confronted with.

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