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Thread: Modern hole saws
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29th Feb 2020, 09:14 PM #1
Modern hole saws
I haven't bought a hole saw in at least 10, probably 15 years, and despite them being reasonable quality, (P&N mostly) some cut way over size, others a bit over size, none cut actual size.
I need to make some slightly under 35mm holes (finished size) in thick steel, but they will to end up being finished with a boring bar & then a reamer.
The less boring bar use the better, so my question is, how good are any of the three brands that are available in my town, at boring close to their stated size (32mm)?
Diablo ($32 ) Kango ($28 ) Lenox ($18)
I am a bit reluctant to try the Kango due to only 5tpi, so likely to chatter, or not??
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29th Feb 2020, 09:42 PM #2Senior Member
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Hi Phil
Try Marvel MHE holesaws available through REXEL Electrical dealers. They are not cheap and may not be available in the exact size you want. They a more like a milling cutter.
I have a variety of sizes that I need but the make a large variety.
My 23mm one has done over 2000 holes in sheet steel without sharpening.
Roger
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29th Feb 2020, 09:47 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Hi Phil, I've found with holesaws, no matter what brand they cut slightly oversize, whether this is because the material isn't mounted rigidly enough, a bit of movement in the quill, or something else? I have noticed that most of them tend to go in an elliptical pattern as if the bore isn't quite centred or what I don't know, as I've never bothered checking to find out.
Whether this'll work or not, but to use the next size down holesaw, having the metal mounted rigidly, change to the correct size saw, as it would then only be taking out a minimal amount.
You haven't mentioned the size that it needs to be or the depth required, as this could/will change the method to cut the hole.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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29th Feb 2020, 10:30 PM #4
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29th Feb 2020, 10:38 PM #5
The size is as stated in the O.P. (32mm) and depth will be 52mm, but I can go at it from both sides.
The saw will be in the tail stock, and the piece in a 8" 4-jaw chuck, so as rigid as the lathe.
As long as the saw hole doesn't hit 34mm I'm safe. Otherwise I have to go down to 30mm, which I am confident won't run out to 34mm in the lathe.
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29th Feb 2020, 11:01 PM #6Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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One of the nuisances with all hole saws is clearing swarf - to reduce this prob try drilling several 10mm holes just touching the inside Of the circumference. The more holes drilled the better.
sorry can't comment on those particular holes saws you asked about. Pity you weren't a bit closer as you could borrow my set of rugged carbide tipped hole saws which are really good in these situation. The other way I drill big holes is borrow a big MT3 drill bits from where I used to work.
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1st Mar 2020, 01:11 AM #7
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1st Mar 2020, 02:03 AM #8Most Valued Member
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Out of interest - why the big reluctance for using the boring bar?
Just a case of a small lathe not liking boring?
Steve
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1st Mar 2020, 07:59 AM #9Senior Member
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1st Mar 2020, 08:22 AM #10Most Valued Member
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Honestly a twist drill would be a faster way of making the same hole. And can be got second hand cheap and sharpened. They will also get you close to reaming size off the bat.
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1st Mar 2020, 10:06 AM #11Most Valued Member
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A holesaw is not the weapon of choice for this (an annular cutter is a better choice, but still not one I would make). Attempting to bore a hole 50+mm deep with one is not going to end well. Several problems, you have no means of clearing the cutting debris (an annular cutter can at least achieve this with a sporting chance of success), most holesaws won’t cut that deep so you are forced to reverse the part (an annular cutter suffers the same issue unless you buy a ridiculous expensive long series one), doing so will cause a misaligned hole and likely exceed diameter. It can be done, but it will be frustrating and you will need to go down a size or two on the holesaw.
I would bore the hole with the largest twist drill I have on hand below reaming size and use the boring bar to bring it to reaming size.
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1st Mar 2020, 10:11 AM #12
It must be blatantly obvious to anybody who has ever watched a chucked hole saw rotate, that is is not a precision cutting tool.
After all is said and done the hole saw is of a stamped/ pressed construction ,made to loosely fit the driving mandrel it is made for.
When an approach to the work being performed is dictated by cost, choosing the cheap option will generally mean quality and/or accuracy suffers.
It took a good while as a home DIY/hobbyist to come to this conclusion, but it is true. Go cheap and often there is a downside.
Grahame
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1st Mar 2020, 11:45 AM #13
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1st Mar 2020, 11:51 AM #14
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1st Mar 2020, 12:59 PM #15Most Valued Member
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The amount of time it would take you to drill and bore a hole in your material would easily be much quicker than attempting to use a hole saw.
For starters you would not need to have to setup your work piece twice.
If you have apprehension as to your machines ability to drill and bore your hole you would have bucklys doing it with a hole saw or similar.
If this is a paying job then sub it out.
If this is not time dependent just enjoy making swarf.
If any of the above are issues then reaming your hole is going to be another issue you will be confronted with.
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