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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,540

    Default Anyone have a Crown tapping head?

    I bought a tapping head from ebay last week and it has arrived but is non-functional - it has a bit missing (the cam to drive the tap when tapping), feels like it was lubricated with something with a viscosity about that of cold honey and I think the clutch nut is a ring-in as the 1MT shaft that protrudes does not have enough length to engage in a 1MT socket.

    It is a nice English made unit though, so I would like to repair it. Does anyone have one of these and can post some pictures? I have a fair idea what the cam should look like so no disassembly needed, but the clutch nut is a concern, as is the whole clutch (the clutch material looks remarkably new, so could be a replacement...)

    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,439

    Default

    Hi Michael,

    Anything here help ?

    https://www.bilz.com/products/tapping-chucks/
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    Default

    This is it here - a sweet little unit that would have done nicely for smaller taps.
    P1040793.JPG
    It's an 1MT shank but that black knurled knob is thick enough that a 1MT to 2MT socket will not slide home, so that needs replacing. It would be nice to know what a real one looks like. Plan B is to make up a straight shaft so I can just chuck it in a DP without having to muck around with reducing sleeves...
    P1040794.JPG
    The other issue is the drive to get the tap to go in is missing. It will reverse alright but there is no dog clutch to drive the tap in. The second photo is my best guess of what it would look like, but if someone has a parts diagram, it would be nice to have that confirmed (that bit sits on the shaft and the bar across engages when there is pressure on the chuck). Weirdly, the grubscrew that holds that in place is there.
    Not sure whether that replacement part needs to be hardened (either case or Q&T), or just a bit of 4140 ish material would do. Thoughts?
    P1040796.JPG P1040797.JPG
    Would be nice to get it going - while cheap for a tapping head, it is very expensive for a fishing sinker.

    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Michael,

    I have an Archer tapping head, the drive clutch on mine is actually in the nut just above the tap and is a simple friction disc and plate screw. Quite difficult to adjust properly. Mine originally had a MT shaft. I turned mine down to a 1/2" inch parallel one.

    Its in a box somewhere so I can't take any pictures at the moment. I've lots of boxes, lots of them.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
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    Default

    For those who have contacted me off line with suggestions for learning how to use it, I have a larger one (although without a clutch), so know how to use them - my main issue is getting it to a condition it can be used.

    John, That black nut is the clutch - a disc sandwiched between two discs of friction material. Simple, although not sure how effective it is (or as you suggest, how easy to adjust).

    I'm hoping someone has a picture or two of this model, or even better an exploded parts diagram so I can get an idea about scale. I do like the idea of a parallel shaft though. For small taps the torque should be comparatively low (and I could put a hex on the shaft)

    Michael

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    (and I could put a hex on the shaft) Michael
    Do you believe in that stuff?? Isn't that a part of Witchcraft, I wouldn't put a hex on it, it mightn't work ever.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
    Posts
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    Default Closing the loop

    So the clutch was something like but not close to the sketch above, but works
    P1040801.JPG
    The shaft I replaced with a 1/2" round one and then put 3 flats on it (so not to offend Kryn with a hex)
    P1040799 (2).JPG
    With the smaller size and the more convenient mounting I expect to use this one a lot more than my 1/2" capacity Piper.
    Michael

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