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  1. #1
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    Default Heat Treatment Kiln

    They seem simple enough to build, but one thing I would like to know is:

    The standard brick is 230x115x76.

    bottom is no problem if you want to make it wider than say 230, but for the top how do you support the bricks so that they dont fall in if you wanted to go wider to say 2 or more bricks?

    I am guessing a lintel is out of the question due to temperatures....lol

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    If you're think of making one why not look around for pottery kiln, even the small ones get to 1200C. I picked up a small working Ward kiln on Gumtree for $75, nothing fancy 10 amp single phase plug, simmerstat temp control, could be easily converted to a proper PID type thermostat control.

  3. #3
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    Apr 2018
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    Drouin Vic
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    Default

    For a wider roof, the bricks would be cut to a taper and laid as an arch. A timber frame is used to support the arch during the build process.

  4. #4
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    Adelaide
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    Back in the early 80's I worked at a high school and replaced the elements in kilns that were used in the art centre, the fire bricks on the sides had a channel/groove where the element was laid, the element started at the bottom and worked it's way to the top, the top was flat and hinged at the back, the kiln was loaded from the top, a small hole on the side allowed a small cone shaped test piece called a slump tester to be viewed - as the name suggests the top of the cone would slump to one side once a certain temp had been reached - not very accurate but adequate for pottery.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O View Post
    For a wider roof, the bricks would be cut to a taper and laid as an arch. A timber frame is used to support the arch during the build process.
    But the web pics of the tetlows etc dont show an arch.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    Back in the early 80's I worked at a high school and replaced the elements in kilns that were used in the art centre, the fire bricks on the sides had a channel/groove where the element was laid, the element started at the bottom and worked it's way to the top, the top was flat and hinged at the back, the kiln was loaded from the top, a small hole on the side allowed a small cone shaped test piece called a slump tester to be viewed - as the name suggests the top of the cone would slump to one side once a certain temp had been reached - not very accurate but adequate for pottery.
    Yeah, but i want a frontloader

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    If you're think of making one why not look around for pottery kiln, even the small ones get to 1200C. I picked up a small working Ward kiln on Gumtree for $75, nothing fancy 10 amp single phase plug, simmerstat temp control, could be easily converted to a proper PID type thermostat control.
    Been keeping an eye out for one but they seem pricey here in Adelaide.....

  8. #8
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    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
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    633

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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    But the web pics of the tetlows etc dont show an arch.
    This one does Ge & Ge Kilns - first class kilns to precisely match your requirements

    My suggestion was based on several years laying bricks in a previous life rather than any specific kiln experience. From my few encounters with fire bricks, I recall them being easy to cut. An arch results in force pushing outwards, the angle iron frame would contain this. I suspect the flat roofs must have a supporting rod passing through a hole bored in the bricks, or some such arrangement. I would think an arch would be longer lasting.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
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    71
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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    Yeah, but i want a frontloader
    So do I but I've *got* a front-loader. Better than nothing though I haven't really had a need to use it for a while. The only front-loader I've seen locally belongs to a friend of mine and he's not parting with it.

    PDW

  10. #10
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    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    About time to take SWMBO on a holiday, Lake Macquarie area should be nice this time of year,
    https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/spee...iln/1212169009
    $635, all the work is done for you.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
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    Default

    If you wish to build a larger unit than is than the bricks, then cast the entire unit using castable refractory cement, and set in a steel frame, I made a front loading kiln for my niece using this method 20 years ago.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
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    257

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    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    If you wish to build a larger unit than is than the bricks, then cast the entire unit using castable refractory cement, and set in a steel frame, I made a front loading kiln for my niece using this method 20 years ago.
    I built mine with insulating firebricks (they are kind of aerated and very light and easy to cut and shape). I can get to 800C slowly with about 2400W of element but with only one layer of bricks it does get very hot on the outside showing that its not insulated enough. I'm not sure I could get much hotter with that element and one layer of bricks. I think the ones in kilns are a denser material.

    Anyway, I have the top of mine two bricks wide for the reasons you are asking about (that was about as wide as I could bridge), I wasn't sure how to successfully bridge a wider gap. Anyway, mine is big enough for my purposes.


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornetb View Post
    I built mine with insulating firebricks (they are kind of aerated and very light and easy to cut and shape). I can get to 800C slowly with about 2400W of element but with only one layer of bricks it does get very hot on the outside showing that its not insulated enough. I'm not sure I could get much hotter with that element and one layer of bricks. I think the ones in kilns are a denser material.

    Anyway, I have the top of mine two bricks wide for the reasons you are asking about (that was about as wide as I could bridge), I wasn't sure how to successfully bridge a wider gap. Anyway, mine is big enough for my purposes.
    that post of your the other day was the one that aroused my interest again...I am going to blame you for this

  14. #14
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    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    About time to take SWMBO on a holiday, Lake Macquarie area should be nice this time of year,
    https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/spee...iln/1212169009
    $635, all the work is done for you.
    Kryn
    not taking her there..she'll get sea sick

    wish it was in adelaide

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Athelstone, SA 5076
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O View Post
    This one does Ge & Ge Kilns - first class kilns to precisely match your requirements

    My suggestion was based on several years laying bricks in a previous life rather than any specific kiln experience. From my few encounters with fire bricks, I recall them being easy to cut. An arch results in force pushing outwards, the angle iron frame would contain this. I suspect the flat roofs must have a supporting rod passing through a hole bored in the bricks, or some such arrangement. I would think an arch would be longer lasting.
    thanks Pete..i know how the arch principal works, and the more I think about it that might be the way to do it...If I recall castable refractory was not cheap while K23 bricks dont seem too bad price wise...will need to do sums again

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