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Thread: Electrolysis and Lathe Parts.
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9th Feb 2020, 02:39 PM #1
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9th Feb 2020, 04:36 PM #2China
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A mate in Townsville used this on his shaper parts and was very impressed, did not appear to remove any metal just the rust https://rustedsolutions.com.au/
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9th Feb 2020, 05:15 PM #3Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I was a keen electrolysist until I discovered vinegar/citric/ oxalic acids. All are safer and less messy than electrolysis and faster than molasses. All will remove minimal metal with Vinegar removing slightly more than the other two. The cleaner the surfaces the quicker they work.
The important tip after using these acids is not to rinse the acids off afterwards. Blow the parts dry with dry compressed air and the will not re-rust as fast afterwards. If oxalic is used it leaves a very thin pale yellow residue that does not rust for many months or even years.
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9th Feb 2020, 06:29 PM #4
Is this the stuff you used?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Citric-A...5zVcaYgAT_QnaQ
Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012
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9th Feb 2020, 07:44 PM #5Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Can’t remember but it was from eBay and it was cheap.
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9th Feb 2020, 08:17 PM #6
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9th Feb 2020, 10:03 PM #7Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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It depends how thick the rust is and how quickly you want it removed. Average lemon juice is 5% citric acid (CA) and it’s difficult to get it stronger than this. Whereas with powdered CA can be made much stronger. I usually make it around 10% by weight and have tried 15% and that definitely works faster.
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10th Feb 2020, 12:30 AM #8Senior Member
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10th Feb 2020, 10:23 AM #9Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I haven't tested solubility of metal but being a chelating agent it shouldn't dissolve much metal.
What I was after was the cheapest way possible to make a multi litre bath to throw rusted parts into and be able to walk away, and if I forgot about the parts in the bath, then they would not dissolve.
The cost of a 10% strength 10L bath using PA worked out to $30 whereas the Citric acid worked out to about half that. OK for a single tanks worth but depending on use it only lasts so long before it needs replacing. I found PA to a one use only proposition and I note they do say not to put any used rust converter back into the bottle. Vinegar is also a cheap option
The other factor I was interested in was, once de-rusted pieces are removed from the bath how long do they take to re-rust if I forgot about them? I have tested PA on another occasion and found it was not that good at presenting rust from reforming so it needs to be painted or whatever relatively soon afterwards.
The best acid for least re-rusting is oxalic. It doesn't suit all applications because it forms a thin yellowish layer across the metal but if it is eventually going to be painted it can be left for many months before doing this. The cost of oxalic was somewhere between Citric and PA. Oxalic is also the most toxic of these but as long as you wear gloves while handling the workpieces and preparing the liquid, and a mask when dissolving the powder it's not really a problem.
I've also tested tannic acid because it also has good re-rusting resistance (better than PA) but it is expensive made worse by not being reusable. It leaves a pleasing very thin black layer on workpieces that comes away if continually handles but it is easily painted over leaving a smooth finish. It does need multiple applications to be effective on even thin rust.
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10th Feb 2020, 10:27 AM #10Golden Member
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Evaporust all the way........
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10th Feb 2020, 10:54 AM #11Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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10th Feb 2020, 03:23 PM #12Most Valued Member
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Electrolysis will work fine, however it will leave a black oxide finish which then has to be removed with a wire wheel or acid. I have successfully used Sulfamic acid to wash away the black residue - effortless. You can buy this cheaply as a cleaner. Any other common low strength acid would probably work just as well.
You will need to kill the Sulfamic with an alkaline (use the electrolysis washing soda water) and this will also remove the very light grey oxide film acid deposits.
Wash with water, then oil. I don't see embrittlement being an issue.
Do NOT use electrolysis on any non ferrous metal (oil ports etc). Electrolysis will also lift any enamel based paint, so it's good to clean up old castings.
Cheers RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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11th Feb 2020, 05:56 PM #13
I have got a bottle of Evaporust
On another forum I saw someone who made a trough just big enough to do one side of the bed at a time.
How long does it last?
Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012
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11th Feb 2020, 05:59 PM #14
Just wondering if you can use electrolysis in an old enamel bath tub if no metal is exposed on the tub.
Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012
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11th Feb 2020, 10:23 PM #15
Hi Wm460,
The way to find out is to put some water in and measure the resistance between the water and metal of the bath. Use some salt in the water to ensure its conductivity.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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