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  1. #1
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    Default Electrolysis and Lathe Parts.

    I was thinking about using electrolosis to clean up the parts of my Herus, I read this and wonder if it would have any adverse affect to lathe parts?


    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    I wouldn't do the front end with electrolosis either. There is a high chance of hydrogen embrittlement. Would not be nice having springs, frontends or axles breaking because of the embrittlement. This has been discussed on some old car restoration sites and the molasses system is the better and safer way to go.

    Ken

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  2. #2
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    Default

    A mate in Townsville used this on his shaper parts and was very impressed, did not appear to remove any metal just the rust https://rustedsolutions.com.au/

  3. #3
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    I was a keen electrolysist until I discovered vinegar/citric/ oxalic acids. All are safer and less messy than electrolysis and faster than molasses. All will remove minimal metal with Vinegar removing slightly more than the other two. The cleaner the surfaces the quicker they work.

    The important tip after using these acids is not to rinse the acids off afterwards. Blow the parts dry with dry compressed air and the will not re-rust as fast afterwards. If oxalic is used it leaves a very thin pale yellow residue that does not rust for many months or even years.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I was a keen electrolysist until I discovered vinegar/citric/ oxalic acids. All are safer and less messy than electrolysis and faster than molasses. All will remove minimal metal with Vinegar removing slightly more than the other two. The cleaner the surfaces the quicker they work.

    The important tip after using these acids is not to rinse the acids off afterwards. Blow the parts dry with dry compressed air and the will not re-rust as fast afterwards. If oxalic is used it leaves a very thin pale yellow residue that does not rust for many months or even years.

    Is this the stuff you used?

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Citric-A...5zVcaYgAT_QnaQ

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  5. #5
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Can’t remember but it was from eBay and it was cheap.

  6. #6
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    Hi China, Guys,

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    A mate in Townsville used this on his shaper parts and was very impressed, did not appear to remove any metal just the rust https://rustedsolutions.com.au/
    Reminds me of "Navel Jelly" ! A Hydrochloric Acid based paste I believe.

    Edited to add that Citric acid in the form of concentrated Lemon juice is the stuff I use ! Much safer than the Navel Jelly.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #7
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    It depends how thick the rust is and how quickly you want it removed. Average lemon juice is 5% citric acid (CA) and it’s difficult to get it stronger than this. Whereas with powdered CA can be made much stronger. I usually make it around 10% by weight and have tried 15% and that definitely works faster.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I was a keen electrolysist until I discovered vinegar/citric/ oxalic acids. All are safer and less messy than electrolysis and faster than molasses. All will remove minimal metal with Vinegar removing slightly more than the other two. The cleaner the surfaces the quicker they work.

    The important tip after using these acids is not to rinse the acids off afterwards. Blow the parts dry with dry compressed air and the will not re-rust as fast afterwards. If oxalic is used it leaves a very thin pale yellow residue that does not rust for many months or even years.
    What about phosphoric acid? Aka 'rust converter'.

  9. #9
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by pippin88 View Post
    What about phosphoric acid? Aka 'rust converter'.
    I haven't tested solubility of metal but being a chelating agent it shouldn't dissolve much metal.

    What I was after was the cheapest way possible to make a multi litre bath to throw rusted parts into and be able to walk away, and if I forgot about the parts in the bath, then they would not dissolve.
    The cost of a 10% strength 10L bath using PA worked out to $30 whereas the Citric acid worked out to about half that. OK for a single tanks worth but depending on use it only lasts so long before it needs replacing. I found PA to a one use only proposition and I note they do say not to put any used rust converter back into the bottle. Vinegar is also a cheap option

    The other factor I was interested in was, once de-rusted pieces are removed from the bath how long do they take to re-rust if I forgot about them? I have tested PA on another occasion and found it was not that good at presenting rust from reforming so it needs to be painted or whatever relatively soon afterwards.

    The best acid for least re-rusting is oxalic. It doesn't suit all applications because it forms a thin yellowish layer across the metal but if it is eventually going to be painted it can be left for many months before doing this. The cost of oxalic was somewhere between Citric and PA. Oxalic is also the most toxic of these but as long as you wear gloves while handling the workpieces and preparing the liquid, and a mask when dissolving the powder it's not really a problem.

    I've also tested tannic acid because it also has good re-rusting resistance (better than PA) but it is expensive made worse by not being reusable. It leaves a pleasing very thin black layer on workpieces that comes away if continually handles but it is easily painted over leaving a smooth finish. It does need multiple applications to be effective on even thin rust.

  10. #10
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    Evaporust all the way........

  11. #11
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    Evaporust all the way........
    Evaporust uses an organic chelating agent but I'm too tight to pay that sort of money just to remove some rust
    I'd rather spend it on more/other chemicals to fart around with

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Evaporust uses an organic chelating agent but I'm too tight to pay that sort of money just to remove some rust
    I'd rather spend it on more/other chemicals to fart around with
    Electrolysis will work fine, however it will leave a black oxide finish which then has to be removed with a wire wheel or acid. I have successfully used Sulfamic acid to wash away the black residue - effortless. You can buy this cheaply as a cleaner. Any other common low strength acid would probably work just as well.

    You will need to kill the Sulfamic with an alkaline (use the electrolysis washing soda water) and this will also remove the very light grey oxide film acid deposits.

    Wash with water, then oil. I don't see embrittlement being an issue.

    Do NOT use electrolysis on any non ferrous metal (oil ports etc). Electrolysis will also lift any enamel based paint, so it's good to clean up old castings.

    Cheers Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  13. #13
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    I have got a bottle of Evaporust
    On another forum I saw someone who made a trough just big enough to do one side of the bed at a time.

    How long does it last?

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  14. #14
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    Just wondering if you can use electrolysis in an old enamel bath tub if no metal is exposed on the tub.

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  15. #15
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    Hi Wm460,

    The way to find out is to put some water in and measure the resistance between the water and metal of the bath. Use some salt in the water to ensure its conductivity.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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