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  1. #31
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    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    I have a 127 plate I could of hired but it suits an 8 & 10.

  2. #32
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    Sep 2009
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    I have a 127 plate I could of hired but it suits an 8 & 10.
    Oh that’s very kind of you but I’m keen to have a crack at making the plate myself I think. Then I’ll have a blank plate I can make new hole patterns on if I ever need it.

    Gives me a chance to try coordinating the drilling of 127 holes with the degrees, minutes, seconds. Will be fun.... or very frustrating What would you choose? Milling machine mods

  3. #33
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    Jul 2016
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    Melbourne
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    35
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    The problem you will have with making your own isn't in the making, but in verifying it's accuracy

  4. #34
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    Sep 2009
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    Default What would you choose? Milling machine mods

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    The problem you will have with making your own isn't in the making, but in verifying it's accuracy
    I’m assuming I will know if it’s worked when I eventually cut a gear as it should line up at the end (same for the plate too)?

    Long process to find out if it’s wrong What would you choose? Milling machine mods

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Thread cutting and pitch consistency will be the indicator.

    Although if your only cutting short threads and your not planning on cutting any leadscrews on your lathe then it will probably be fine.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #36
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    Can I test my maths for creating a 127 hole dividing plate on a 90:1 rotary table?

    90/127 = 0.708661417323 = 0* 42’ 31.18”

    So the order would be:

    0* 42’ 31.18”
    1* 25’ 2.36”
    2* 7’ 33.54”
    2* 50’ 4.72”

    etc, etc

  7. #37
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    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    You would need to divide 360 by 127 then convert that too degrees minutes seconds,
    ( 2.8346 = 2 50' 4.56" ) and a plate of around 200 mm OD.

  8. #38
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    Sep 2009
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    You would need to divide 360 by 127 then convert that too degrees minutes seconds,
    ( 2.8346 = 2 50' 4.56" ) and a plate of around 200 mm OD.
    Ah, of course. I assume what I did was convert in to degree, min, secs of handle turns?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    666

    Default What would you choose? Milling machine mods

    The rotary table arrived. Amazing service as it was here in about 4 days I think! Unfortunately that’s where the good news stopped.

    When it arrived I couldn’t get the handle to move separate to the gear engagement mechanism. Rather than force it I thought I’d strip it all down anyway to clean the sticky grease off.

    Turns out it had been poorly treated in transit. The table gear and spindle where damaged from what appears to be a drop.





    The spindle was locked because of the fragments of the gear and the spindle was bent.

    Luckily the vendor has been very accommodating and given I have it completely stripped anyway, they’re sending replacement parts for me to assemble myself. Just need to figure out a way to align the gear with the table.

  10. #40
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    Seller had a replacement gear and spindle shipped express. Landed today. Spent this evening trying to get my head around how to put it all together again.

    Took my time to dial in all the adjusters to get the least amount of play. Was able to remove almost all of the play in the spindle as well as dial in the backlash down to nearly nothing. Will get a dial indicator on it at some point to get it down to a couple of the tenths.

    For a “not expensive” option, I have to say I’m impressed. The action is buttery smooth and you can really dial it in. It’s all cleaned and lubed and ready to be used in anger.

    Also had a play with the dividing plates. Again it’s buttery smooth and seems super easy to use. Can’t wait to have to use that either.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
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    134

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    Which seller is that from? Always good to keep good sellers on the list.

  12. #42
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

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    Zeal tools. Shipping was exceptional, communication was great and resolution was swift. Table is great too.

  13. #43
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    Minor update. Will be pulling the trigger on a DRO this week What would you choose? Milling machine mods

    Going 3 axis and will try and figure out a way to connect the quill to the third axis and ideally a gas strut to stop the tool dropping which is very annoying.

    Appreciate any input/ideas on how to achieve this on an RF-30 mill.

  14. #44
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default What would you choose? Milling machine mods

    Today was the first time I’ve properly used a DRO and those that recommended it are right; it’s an amazing/essential but of kit for the mill.

    My install has been relatively standard. Drilled, tapped and mounted the x axis on the rear of the table:



    Yes I’ve lost 19mm of Y travel, but I’ve never used anywhere close to all the travel anyway.

    The Y was a little more complicated. I only wanted the scales to move, not the reader heads, so I didn’t have cables moving all over the place.

    To achieve this I made a bracket for the table with cutouts for the dovetails. This extended down and provided the surface to bolt the scale Alu mounting bar to:



    I really love this little mill, it’s really turning out to be one of the best things I out in the shed (alongside the lathe and TIG).



    The Z is going to take a bit more time to sort out. I don’t want it hanging off the side of the quill and I want to keep the depth stop too. So my thought is to build something to mount it off the back of the quill stop mount and put it up inside the mill (so it’s hidden):



    Here’s my contraption to make it all work:



    The blue tube will be cut to make L brackets (pretty heavy wall tube and I hope it will be strong enough). That’s a linear bearing to create the sliding surface for the top of the scale.

    The bit I made this afternoon was the metal bracket on the bearing block. It bolts to the block and creates a central bolt point for the top of the scale.

    Using my new centre finder I was easily able locate the centre of my part and navigate the 16mm and 15mm coordinates with ease. I was even able to go back and hit the coordinates again to countersink the bolt heads with absolute precision. Love it!

    A very simple part, but was a breeze to make:


  15. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
    Posts
    633

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    Agree the DRO revolutionises use of the mill, like a QTCP does for the lathe. Being able to do the same operation in multiple locations, knowing you can easily come back for subsequent operations, as opposed to multiple tool changes at each location is one of my favourite things about the DRO.

    Noticed your comment about a gas strut to prevent the tool dropping- there should be a tension adjustment on the quill clock spring which is located under the cap on the left of the mill. Not sure how yours is adjusted, but this is there for that purpose.

    Nice work on the installation BTW- especially the tricky Y axis.

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