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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    97

    Default Surface Grinder Travel Less than Mag Chuck

    I've recently picked up a Kent KGS-200 Surface grinder
    I need to resurface the mag chuck, but I had a look and the chuck is slightly longer than the overall table travel.
    This will mean I get high points at each end. Not ideal

    Unless anyone's got a better idea, I'm thinking of repositioning the chuck on the table so I can fully traverse to one end, grind that end slightly lower than required. Then shift the chuck and do the same at the other end.
    After this I would recentre the chuck and surface the now full traversable surface between the ends.

    Any better ideas?
    20200107_135534.jpg
    IMG_20191223_150343.jpg
    IMG_20191223_150353.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Elimbah Qld
    Posts
    24

    Default

    If the chuck is longer than the travel I'd under cut the back only first then move the chuck so the full travel is achieved an able to put a fence up at the front that isn't under cut

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    What Steve said sounds like a plan. Another plan would be to sell this chuck and purchase another one that is suitable for your grinder.

    Also, dont forget that the idea of dressing the surface of the chuck also allows (to a certain extent) for any fluxtuations in the surface that the mag chuck sits on, which also should be dressed. If you are moving your mag chuck to areas on the table that cannot and have never been dressed, then you will introduce other flatness issues that will be introduced on the surface of your mag chuck.

    Having a mag chuck that is larger than the work envelope of your SG would be a right PITA.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Is there a travel stop at the ends that can be temporarily removed ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    97

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Is there a travel stop at the ends that can be temporarily removed ?
    No unfortunately, it's fully reaching the end of the table travel and bottoming out on the castings
    The scary part is the table actually rides up about 3mm at one end if I fully let the castings collide

    So I will need to have a stop at that end before I have a wheel explode or similar

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    97

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stevejw66 View Post
    If the chuck is longer than the travel I'd under cut the back only first then move the chuck so the full travel is achieved an able to put a fence up at the front that isn't under cut
    Yeah I'm liking the idea of a single move to get it right
    Not quite sure what you mean by a fence though?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Tommy,

    A fence is simply a raised edge to stop the work piece from being pushed off the end of the magnetic chuck.
    Often there is one on the far edge as well.

    10-12-2019-014.jpg 10-12-2019-013.jpg
    If you look at these pictures you can see two fences. The long one held by two screws and a small one screwed on at the end. The sole purpose is to position the work piece and stop it being pushed off the end.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    97

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Tommy,

    A fence is simply a raised edge to stop the work piece from being pushed off the end of the magnetic chuck.
    Often there is one on the far edge as well.

    10-12-2019-014.jpg 10-12-2019-013.jpg
    If you look at these pictures you can see two fences. The long one held by two screws and a small one screwed on at the end. The sole purpose is to position the work piece and stop it being pushed off the end.
    Ok I was a bit confused, I've only ever seen a fence at the back side. One on the side could be a nice feature to have

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    97

    Default

    Well tonight a decided to tackle this
    I shifted the chuck so I could fully reach the right end and I ground the first 30 mm of that end low by 0.3 mm
    I then readjusted the chuck so I could traverse between the low spot and the other end and cleaned up the surface

    It turned out ok, although with a little bit of chatter (maybe wheel balance?)
    I don't think the chatter will be a problem for accuracy (I can't measure it), but I might dust it off for cosmetic purposes

    I don't think I ever want to wet grind again! What a mess

    20200119_210707.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Tommy,

    Yes you can see the chatter marking ! That wheel probably needs balancing and dressing.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Hi there,

    Dressing your grinding wheel should get most of that out. Balancing may help. I run 250mm wheels on my Elliot SG and I have never balanced them (purely because I don't have the setup to do it) but I do dress them as required.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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