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2nd Jan 2020, 03:35 AM #1Diamond Member
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Putting a new threaded end on a handbrake cable
I need to shorten this cable and duplicate the threaded end, 3/8" UNF. Making the new end is easy, I'm not too sure whether swaging it onto the cable with only a 10 tonne press is going to work. For swaging I was thinking of squishing the fitting between a pair of mini v blocks.
I guess I can cheat and use loctite as well.
Any thoughts?
IMG_3195.jpg
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2nd Jan 2020, 04:15 AM #2
Hi Bob,
As you suggest making a new threaded end is easy ! I would just drill it and squish it in the press, if it needs more then a substantial vise will give you around 20 tons between the jaws.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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2nd Jan 2020, 08:27 PM #3Most Valued Member
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As a precaution you could also silver solder the joint if you feel that the vise or press isn't enough.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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3rd Jan 2020, 02:04 PM #4Most Valued Member
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- Nov 2017
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- Geelong, Australia
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Putting a new threaded end on a handbrake cable
Some info from an ebay balustrade wire swaging tool.
Make up a couple of small swage blocks so you are only swaging about 8mm wide each time and use those in the press and do the swage in multiple hits.
Less swage area is more pressure for a given press tonnage so you'll get a much tighter swage with narrow dies.
Steve
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3rd Jan 2020, 03:52 PM #5Senior Member
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- May 2010
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- Perth
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- 135
several options spring to mind, best of them is the hydraulic cable crimp sets which you can borrow from a sparky mate, or buy from fleabay starting at just over $50 for a 70T unit.. handy for crimping connections on cables from 10mm2 up to several hundred sq mm. - seen them used for crimping stainless steel balustrade cables too.
There are several options involving modified bolt cutters for making similar crimp tools.
hope that helps,
Des
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3rd Jan 2020, 07:33 PM #6Senior Member
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- Dec 2010
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- Syd
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I'm not sure what's available up there or you're planning to do more than one. The specialist cable makers down here, usually charge a few tens of dollars to make any cable to spec.....probably less than you'll pay for a set of dies for the swaging tool and without the worry of a "hopes and prayers" construction for what looks like a trailer or handbrake cable?
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3rd Jan 2020, 07:43 PM #7Diamond Member
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- Aug 2006
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- Melbourne
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I'd just buy a hydraulic crimper, you would probably find other uses for it down the track such as crimping battery cables etc.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-Ton-Wi...frcectupt=true
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3rd Jan 2020, 10:31 PM #8Most Valued Member
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10 tons will plenty over that surface area, most of the other suggestions are actually based around way less tonnage, the hydraulic crimpers are mostly in the 6-8 range on the cylinder outlet and modified bolt cutters have around the same leverage as a manual crimper that exerts around 600-900kg relative to the handle length and pivot position to the die.
If you are concerned, build and proof test a sample. Shouldn’t be too difficult to rig something up on your press to use it to deadhead the cable to full tonnage of the press. At 10tons the cable will likely stretch or snap well before the joint lets go.
Edit.. I’m not an expert so my advice is potentially worth what you pay for it
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4th Jan 2020, 02:06 AM #9Senior Member
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- Aug 2013
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- Melbourne
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- 229
Cable soldering
You could try soldering the end on.
As an example, have a look on YouTube- Bad Obsession Motorsport. Project Blinky episode 27 at about the 6 minute mark .
Peter
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4th Jan 2020, 02:23 AM #10Senior Member
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- Aug 2007
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- Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
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- 292
You could look at swageless cable fittings used on boat rigging.
Sta-Lok wire and cable terminals for standing rigging on sailboats and yachts | RiggingOnly.com
Hi-MOD Swageless Compression Studs - Hi-MOD Swageless Terminals - Wire Rope Terminals & Clips - Sailboat Hardware & Rigging - Downwind Marine
Or the ones for deck railings.
https://catalog.lexcocable.com/viewi...779.1578064251
Just know that the price might take the wind out of your sails. I also wouldn't use them on any licensed road vehicle and I wouldn't try to fit them to that old cable of questionable strength and history. The liability is too great if something went wrong. Why are you trying to shorten it?
Pete
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4th Jan 2020, 07:50 AM #11Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2019
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- Sydney
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I built, or had a hand in building, three beach buggies years ago. This involved shortening a VW Beetle floorpan by 14 1/2" (well chopping a section out and welding the remaining bits back together. As all the cabling travelled full length, the fuel line, accelerator cable and clutch cable all needed to be shortened. The item that presented the most difficulty was the clutch cable - and was about the same size and construction of what you seem to be attempting. Many options presented themselves, some I have commented upon below:
i. Take a loop in the cable and install a couple of cable clamps to hold it there,
ii. Have a new cable made at some aircraft or marine workshop - my choice as I worked for an airline,
iii. Cut and lay two bits of cable side by side and braze the two together,
iv. Cut off the end fitting, shorten the cable judiciously, drill out the end fitting to suit and hammer the life out of the end fitting (or put it in a 10 ton press) to swage your modded end fitting into the cable - this to me is the LEAST likely to be controllable and if you get it wrong, it is not reversible, or
v. Cut off the end fitting, shorten the cable judiciously, drill out the end fitting to suit and silver solder the cable into the modded fitting. This is the method that I would recommend - soft solder will not have the strength (I suspect).
If you chose to go the way of item v. you might think about thoroughly cleaning the cable end and making sure any cleaning agents are well "killed" before attempting the silver soldering, you might consider deliberately ONLY silver soldering back to the end of the end fitting and not allowing the silver solder to migrate up the cable strands as that then will take the flexibiliy from the cable and make it more likely to break at the interface. I would only flux the bit I put into the end fitting - keeping the rest "dirty" will stop the silver solder to some degree. The end fitting will need to be red hot - keep that sort of heat away from the cable wires and strands. (A cable is built up using wires to make the strands which are then formed into the cable).
I hope this helps.
Ted.
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4th Jan 2020, 08:43 AM #12Member
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- Nov 2015
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- Brisbane Australia
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- 85
Ronstan make Threaded swage terminal ends for metric and imperial wire.
They use a hydraulic press to swage them on.
If you were in Brisbane I could tell you who to take it to.
Maybe in Ipswich you might find someone who does s/s wire balustrading to swage it on.
https://www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/range.asp?RnID=161A
https://www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/range.asp?RnID=162A
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6th Jan 2020, 04:08 PM #13Senior Member
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- Apr 2008
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- Perth
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- 269
Squishing the end
Picked up a cool tool idea by a russian vlogger, cant understand what he was say, but knew what he was explaining thru his excellent hands on skill. Dont bother with those fancy expensive tools to crip, his idea, you will have in your shed already.
Nuts, he just cut them in half with a angle grinder, in your case, I would use a hack saw, as m/cycle cables are on the smaller size.
With the nut cut in half, grab the two bits, place the part you want to crimp on one half of the nut, place the other half opposite, put in your vice and press together.
Have used his idea to make new welding leads, squashing the terminals onto welding cable.
DD
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