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Thread: Punch 12mm hole in 8-10mm steel
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17th Dec 2019, 07:33 AM #46Philomath in training
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A 14mm drill bit should not be run faster than around 650rpm. If you have been running it faster, it was probably blunt before it finished one hole.
As Karl says, don't step up your pilots. All a pilot hole is there for is to guide the main drill and reduce drilling force by not requiring the web of the larger drill to cut.
If your drill takes Morse taper bits you may find you can get a 9/16" bit relatively cheaply from a second hand shop or similar (although you may have to sharpen it). I have a spare here in that size that I'd lend to you if you were local.
Michael
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17th Dec 2019, 10:21 AM #47Most Valued Member
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Yes the single Sutton bits are the decent quality ones. Sutton also sell a cheaper line of Frost however they are made in China, I have avoided them so far on that basis alone.
Rather than buy a tool to sharpen bits, learn to do it on the grinder. It’s actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. This is how I do it (not my video but same technique)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qze0GyBxBRY
If you’re doing a repetitive job consider setting a fence/stops whatever works for your part so you can pick your part from one side of the drill, place it, clamp it, drill it then place it on the pile of ones on the other side of the drill that have been through that operation. Repeat for the other holes. One thing I found helped a lot when I had my little Ryobi was clamping the part down.
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17th Dec 2019, 10:26 AM #48Most Valued Member
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If you're on good terms with your local tool supplier that sells drill bits, you might be lucky that they'll GIVE you a drill speed chart, it sometimes also has a tapping chart.
Failing that, here's a link to a page/s of drill speed that you can print out.
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...19569&q=drill+
Here's a link for drilling in steel.https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools...oles-in-metal/
As racingtadpole mentioned, clamping your job down or in a vise so that it can't move, not only helps but saves trips to the ER, DAMHIKT. No matter how heavy a piece is, if it can be lifted, it can become a missile!!!!!!!
HTH
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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17th Dec 2019, 02:30 PM #49Most Valued Member
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Looks complicated Baron
I found the Sutton sets a fair bit cheaper just gotta wait now
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17th Dec 2019, 02:45 PM #50Most Valued Member
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I made this from 10mm plate took me forever to drill those holes main center hole is 18mm and i used the metal hole saw pictured the outside holes i used i think a 12mm normal drill bit, now realising my 18mm hole saw speed should have been 600rpm and 12mm 850rpm explains why it took so long at 1250rpm
Now looking at the drill speed i was running it at 1250rpm i didnt know about the 10,000 rule and my machine only goes down to 600rpm
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17th Dec 2019, 05:26 PM #51Most Valued Member
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Holesaws are a different animal again, slow will never hurt them, fast will kill them.
Another useful thing for cutting thick plate with holesaws is to touch off with the holesaw to give you it’s cutting radius and them put a couple of small holes of 3-4mm just inside the outer mark you scribed by touching off the holesaw. This gives the swarf a sporting chance of falling out the hole and not binding your holesaw up to red hot. I run a stream of compressed air onto the holesaw at around 10psi, it helps cool the holesaw and get the chips out of the hole.
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17th Dec 2019, 06:15 PM #52Gear expert in training
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Yeah, hole saws need to run slower than you'd think. Handy speed chart here https://www.exchangeablade.com/blog/...-perfect-hole/
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17th Dec 2019, 08:53 PM #53
Hi Gazza,
Its as complicated as you want to make it ! I've seen the Picador style drill sharpening jigs, looking like new, just dumped in the scrap bin, because people thought that they were complicated. If you have watched the video pointed to by Michael, the jig is just a mechanical hand, with one big advantage ! You can easily control the drill length so the flutes end up the same length. In my opinion that is the really hard thing to do by hand.
There are also numerous designs on the web for all sorts of gizmo’s for sharpening drills, from cheap bits of wood right up to very expensive ones.
As far a drill speeds are concerned the slowest speed that my Fobco runs at is 450 rpm and the drill press tends to stay on that speed only going up to the next higher speed for drills smaller than about 5 mm. I don't think that I've ever had to run the machine at top speed.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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18th Dec 2019, 02:38 AM #54Most Valued Member
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Thanks fellas and yeah i usually just leave th he drill bits laying around that are blunt too embarrased to show the one i have sharpend, i'll look into getting the Sutton set and a sharpener i really hope the time drilling is the bits because i have those 32 holes plus more to drill for the spring hanger u bolts, lights, drawbar etc..
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18th Dec 2019, 08:58 PM #55Most Valued Member
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Gazza, PLEASE don't be embarassed to show your attempts at drill bit sharpening, how else will anyone learn what and what not to do????
We might save you a few $$$$$ by helping/telling where you went wrong.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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18th Dec 2019, 10:59 PM #56Most Valued Member
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KB is dead right, mistakes are how we learn, either our own of someone else's. On the bright side, you would be amazed at how bad a drill bit can look, yet still perform acceptably well. The most important points are that the leading (cutting) edge must be higher the trailing edge and thae flutes should be near the same length and the near the same angle. These three points are easily achieved with a little practice. You have nothing to lose as the drill bits are knackered before you start anyway. It is easy to make a drill gauge to act as a guide or you can buy them if you choose. S0me people find it helpful to get a brand new drill bit and offer it up to the grinding wheel with the grinder turned off so that they can get a feel and a muscle memory for the correct angles and manipulations to make when sharpening a blunt one.
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21st Dec 2019, 01:27 AM #57Most Valued Member
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Looking back at that link Racingtadpoles posted that is quiet easy to sharpen and that is what i tried to do but i may have ground between the cutting edge and the back too wide i also didnt know i had to grind the back section too
I'll try tighten the belt on the bench drill in the morning and try drill some holes in the 10mm steel using the correct speed and possibly a resharpen bit
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21st Dec 2019, 06:29 AM #58
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21st Dec 2019, 11:50 AM #59Most Valued Member
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I cant understand half of that barron sorry, i butchered my self sharpen bit but good thing is it can be resharpened
I am thinking about just buying a sharpening machine
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21st Dec 2019, 12:28 PM #60Diamond Member
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You would be better off buying a decent brand 25 piece drill set and some cutting compound.
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