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  1. #46
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    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    ... some drill bits i have used flat out on drill speed because i never knew there were limits on speed
    A 14mm drill bit should not be run faster than around 650rpm. If you have been running it faster, it was probably blunt before it finished one hole.

    As Karl says, don't step up your pilots. All a pilot hole is there for is to guide the main drill and reduce drilling force by not requiring the web of the larger drill to cut.

    If your drill takes Morse taper bits you may find you can get a 9/16" bit relatively cheaply from a second hand shop or similar (although you may have to sharpen it). I have a spare here in that size that I'd lend to you if you were local.

    Michael

  2. #47
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    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Cheers guys for all the advice, i thought i had to step up the sizes hence it will be quicker to drill, if i can use the flute size pilot hole of the 14mm bit than that is only 2 bits i need that should be a bit cheaper

    Are the single Sutton bits the same quality as the kits or vise versa?

    I would have to try find the bits i have sharpen i often lose the bits i leave them laying around or leave one in the drill and use it on another job than take it out and misplace it

    I have seen the drill bit tool for sharpening i may need one of those

    I will go out to the shed this morning and see if the bench drill has any info on speed, i thought HSS stood for high speed capibility for spinning speed of the drill bit, some drill bits i have used flat out on drill speed because i never knew there were limits on speed
    Yes the single Sutton bits are the decent quality ones. Sutton also sell a cheaper line of Frost however they are made in China, I have avoided them so far on that basis alone.

    Rather than buy a tool to sharpen bits, learn to do it on the grinder. It’s actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. This is how I do it (not my video but same technique)
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qze0GyBxBRY

    If you’re doing a repetitive job consider setting a fence/stops whatever works for your part so you can pick your part from one side of the drill, place it, clamp it, drill it then place it on the pile of ones on the other side of the drill that have been through that operation. Repeat for the other holes. One thing I found helped a lot when I had my little Ryobi was clamping the part down.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I will go out to the shed this morning and see if the bench drill has any info on speed, i thought HSS stood for high speed capibility for spinning speed of the drill bit, some drill bits i have used flat out on drill speed because i never knew there were limits on speed
    If you're on good terms with your local tool supplier that sells drill bits, you might be lucky that they'll GIVE you a drill speed chart, it sometimes also has a tapping chart.
    Failing that, here's a link to a page/s of drill speed that you can print out.
    https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...19569&q=drill+
    Here's a link for drilling in steel.https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools...oles-in-metal/
    As racingtadpole mentioned, clamping your job down or in a vise so that it can't move, not only helps but saves trips to the ER, DAMHIKT. No matter how heavy a piece is, if it can be lifted, it can become a missile!!!!!!!
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #49
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Looks complicated Baron

    I found the Sutton sets a fair bit cheaper just gotta wait now

  5. #50
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I made this from 10mm plate took me forever to drill those holes main center hole is 18mm and i used the metal hole saw pictured the outside holes i used i think a 12mm normal drill bit, now realising my 18mm hole saw speed should have been 600rpm and 12mm 850rpm explains why it took so long at 1250rpm

    Now looking at the drill speed i was running it at 1250rpm i didnt know about the 10,000 rule and my machine only goes down to 600rpm
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #51
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    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Holesaws are a different animal again, slow will never hurt them, fast will kill them.
    Another useful thing for cutting thick plate with holesaws is to touch off with the holesaw to give you it’s cutting radius and them put a couple of small holes of 3-4mm just inside the outer mark you scribed by touching off the holesaw. This gives the swarf a sporting chance of falling out the hole and not binding your holesaw up to red hot. I run a stream of compressed air onto the holesaw at around 10psi, it helps cool the holesaw and get the chips out of the hole.

  7. #52
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    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    34
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    Yeah, hole saws need to run slower than you'd think. Handy speed chart here https://www.exchangeablade.com/blog/...-perfect-hole/

  8. #53
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Gazza,

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Looks complicated Baron

    I found the Sutton sets a fair bit cheaper just gotta wait now
    Its as complicated as you want to make it ! I've seen the Picador style drill sharpening jigs, looking like new, just dumped in the scrap bin, because people thought that they were complicated. If you have watched the video pointed to by Michael, the jig is just a mechanical hand, with one big advantage ! You can easily control the drill length so the flutes end up the same length. In my opinion that is the really hard thing to do by hand.

    There are also numerous designs on the web for all sorts of gizmo’s for sharpening drills, from cheap bits of wood right up to very expensive ones.

    As far a drill speeds are concerned the slowest speed that my Fobco runs at is 450 rpm and the drill press tends to stay on that speed only going up to the next higher speed for drills smaller than about 5 mm. I don't think that I've ever had to run the machine at top speed.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #54
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Thanks fellas and yeah i usually just leave th he drill bits laying around that are blunt too embarrased to show the one i have sharpend, i'll look into getting the Sutton set and a sharpener i really hope the time drilling is the bits because i have those 32 holes plus more to drill for the spring hanger u bolts, lights, drawbar etc..

  10. #55
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    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Gazza, PLEASE don't be embarassed to show your attempts at drill bit sharpening, how else will anyone learn what and what not to do????
    We might save you a few $$$$$ by helping/telling where you went wrong.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #56
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Gazza, PLEASE don't be embarassed to show your attempts at drill bit sharpening, how else will anyone learn what and what not to do????
    We might save you a few $$$$$ by helping/telling where you went wrong.
    Kryn
    KB is dead right, mistakes are how we learn, either our own of someone else's. On the bright side, you would be amazed at how bad a drill bit can look, yet still perform acceptably well. The most important points are that the leading (cutting) edge must be higher the trailing edge and thae flutes should be near the same length and the near the same angle. These three points are easily achieved with a little practice. You have nothing to lose as the drill bits are knackered before you start anyway. It is easy to make a drill gauge to act as a guide or you can buy them if you choose. S0me people find it helpful to get a brand new drill bit and offer it up to the grinding wheel with the grinder turned off so that they can get a feel and a muscle memory for the correct angles and manipulations to make when sharpening a blunt one.

  12. #57
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    Aug 2009
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    Looking back at that link Racingtadpoles posted that is quiet easy to sharpen and that is what i tried to do but i may have ground between the cutting edge and the back too wide i also didnt know i had to grind the back section too

    I'll try tighten the belt on the bench drill in the morning and try drill some holes in the 10mm steel using the correct speed and possibly a resharpen bit

  13. #58
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Gazza,

    Maybe this pdf from Harold Hall will help.

    DrShBasics1.pdf
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #59
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    Aug 2009
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    I cant understand half of that barron sorry, i butchered my self sharpen bit but good thing is it can be resharpened

    I am thinking about just buying a sharpening machine

  15. #60
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    Aug 2006
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    Melbourne
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    You would be better off buying a decent brand 25 piece drill set and some cutting compound.

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