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  1. #151
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    I was going to either machine some beefy steel spacers to go between the upper plate and top of drawbar and between lower drawbar and lower plate i could make these on the late but even just using the correct thickness of plate would be an option too just i would need to hand drill instead of drilling it on the lathe

    I'll try get pics now

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I want to leave the drawbar on the bottom plate as pictured as my first steel angle iron cross member is bolted to the bottom of the aluminium i beam

    (Top plate not finished 2 more bolts/holes needed)

    (Bottom plate not cut to shape yet like top plate)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    You guys will probably flame me for using the rusty steel... it was suppose to be a quick build 90% bolt together 10% welding design i pretty much have 90-95% all parts of the trailer its just getting it all together so much revolves around the steel getting galvanized it all cost money and needing special parts like the Velox Behive Disc etc.. plus i have had the engine to repair which is now completed and also the boat taking ip a bit of my spare cash

    The trailer is the next to get finished, its mostly drilling and bolting together all the welding is almost done i just need to stick weld the axle blocks and brake mounts which are critical but in my case my car braked fine towing the boat home no brakes seller sprung that on me after i handed over the cash 2 years ago...

    Got in over my head tho thought i could build a 6 meter aluminium trailer for $2000 salvaging my old trailer, im at $2500 now and will be spending another $700-$1000 in the next few weeks

    For anyone wondering why i didnt just buy the expensive drill set yet spend so much on this trailer build i had the cash 12 months ago that bought most of the trailer parts just to clear that up hence i bought the lathe and unimig razor 200 mig..

    Money is usually tighter than a mouses butt now tho so need to finish this trailer while i have some money coming in

    Let me say debt sucks lol

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Gazza,

    Why not simply remove the bottom plate, take the top plate and clamp them together. Using the bottom one as a pattern, mark and drill as needed. No need for anything more than a standard length drill.

    Now if you have properly squared up and tightened that press drill table, you can use it to drill your holes in the steel plate. Once you have done that you can bolt both plates together and file them or cut them to match each other. At this point you can unfasten them and then can bolt them in place on your trailer. If you have done it properly they should not only fit but should be interchangeable between top and bottom.

    As far as galvanising is concerned I would just buy a spray can of cold galvanising paint.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

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    Hi guys
    Just a quick point about sizing pilot holes for drill bits.

    I am not sure if the point has been made already but I am short of time ATM and don't have time to go back and read the whole thread;

    I was always taught that the pilot hole diameter must always be just a fraction larger than chisel point of the larger diameter drill.
    This allows the cutting edges of the bigger drill to self center.

    It has always worked like a charm for me with hand and bench drilling machines.

    My apologies if someone has already included this.

    Racing like stink to get the rubbish bin out before the garbo truck comes.

    Grahame

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

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    Apart from the top and bottom plates, what holds the drawbar in the frame? Is it an extendable drawbar?
    That whole front end looks pretty weak and under designed with an awful lot of load going through the flanges of the aluminium. If it is as it appears, it will fail.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    This is how some are built at the Y section https://www.ebay.com.au/i/3324098395...gaAtRtEALw_wcB

    Thanks i will fix the drill press tighten her up and drill the pieces on that

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    1,536

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    $2295 for a commercially made unit, versus the 3k+ you’ll have in this one... I get sometimes it’s appropriate to spend the money to learn, but sometimes you gotta know when to play the cards and sometimes you have to know when to throw them in and leave the table. Yeah you’re learning but there are way cheaper ways to learn how to drill a hole and sharpen drill bits.

  9. #159
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

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    Somehow I don't think that particular trailer is $2295, it says FROM!!!
    As you've already found out, the material costs that much alone.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    Racing, my trailer is about 6.2 meters to buy one that size professionally made from Australian aluminium would cost around $7,000 or around $5,000 imported from China

    Mine is made from aluminium from Capral Aluminium the aluminium outside rails and cross members cost me almost $1,000 alone

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I must admit i started early last year around january to build this trailer i put a side $2,000 to build the trailer with salvaging parts from my old trailer but as the build progressed i wanted all new parts on the trailer and i ran out of funds, i put it on the back burner after around six months in because i had to buy the expensive stuff at this point that were the 4 custom spring hanger u bolts at $180 plus delivery and galvanizing cost, the 2 front velox deep disc hubs $240, the galvanizing of all the steel my spring hangers are made of 10mm angle iron which both sides weigh 45kg i estimate i have around 70kg or just under of steel to galvanize at $4 per kilo of weight

    but now i am progressing i should have all the expensive stuff covered this month or next month i just need all the steel ready to galvanize so it means i need to pull my finger out and get cranking

    here is the trailer at around six months in with C clamps holding the spring hangers on and everything just sitting in place nothing drilled or bolted down
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #162
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I have plenty of build pics but here's a few last ones, Trailer will have 4x 9inch wheels and long bed bunks made from 190x75mm treated pine if i can find that thickness so it adds some rigidness
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    1,536

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Somehow I don't think that particular trailer is $2295, it says FROM!!!
    As you've already found out, the material costs that much alone.
    Kryn
    HA! I didn’t even see the ‘from’ bit. Carry on!

  14. #164
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Racing haha yeah aluminium trailers carry a massive price tag and most are bolt together quiet strange really

    I can see the money in a steel fabricated trailer all the welding than galvanizing on top which cost a absolute fortune

    I personally think a few of the companies making aluminium trailers like to charge a premium bevause they can

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Measured my trailer last night i totally forgot how long i made it, measured 7.06 meters i recall not wanting to cut my expensive i beams, i also kept the bend very light from memory i bent them 8.1 degrees

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