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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    35
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    1,522

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    They were really designed for use on a pantograph. More for engraving than milling so they can't take too much load.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    They were really designed for use on a pantograph. More for engraving than milling so they can't take too much load.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
    Yes prob only for light milling but the way this is I think just engraving would move it.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
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    1,416

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    I meant to double check mine today but have been busy and forgot.

    I'll do my best to do as you did in your video tomorrow. I've done smaller milling jobs in mine over the years and haven't had any problems with it moving that I can remember.

    Being a light rotary table and having the tilt is the only reason I bought one.
    I have a 10inch rotary table, but it's so heavy for smaller jobs and gets in the way.

    Don't know if I mentioned it earlier, but I bored out the backing plate so shafts could pass through the back.
    Using Tapatalk

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    I meant to double check mine today but have been busy and forgot.

    I'll do my best to do as you did in your video tomorrow. I've done smaller milling jobs in mine over the years and haven't had any problems with it moving that I can remember.

    Being a light rotary table and having the tilt is the only reason I bought one.
    I have a 10inch rotary table, but it's so heavy for smaller jobs and gets in the way.

    Don't know if I mentioned it earlier, but I bored out the backing plate so shafts could pass through the back.
    After you've looked at yours and got back to me, I might disassemble mine and give it a good clean and lube and also see if there's a way to add a modification to lock the chuck tight.

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    The way those chucks are designed you will not be able to tighten them any more than the pins will let you. You can put s bar between the the pins and twist it to get a little more force on the jaws. Eventually the scroll or the teeth in the jaws will let go trying to tighten it too hard.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    The way those chucks are designed you will not be able to tighten them any more than the pins will let you. You can put s bar between the the pins and twist it to get a little more force on the jaws. Eventually the scroll or the teeth in the jaws will let go trying to tighten it too hard.
    Yeah true, but I'm referring to locking the rotation of the chuck not the tightening of the chuck jaws.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Phaser,

    Ah sorry, I thought you meant tightening them. Though I would have thought that they would have some means of preventing rotation, a screw or cam.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Phaser,

    Ah sorry, I thought you meant tightening them. Though I would have thought that they would have some means of preventing rotation, a screw or cam.
    The little lever is cam action to lift/lower the worm thereby allowing the chuck either free rotation or locking it, but the locking action is not very positive. Or to put in another way, the lever doesn't go over-centre (if you know what I mean)

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