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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
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    422

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    I'm still having trouble with the quill taper.
    I had the 50mm facing cutter in there, and wanted to remove it to put the collet chuck in.
    With the quill locked tight it took a 4 pound hammer to knock the drawbar down this time
    The drawbar is just a 12mm threaded rod with a nut at the top. How much torque should I apply to it when tightening a tool into the morse ?
    I didn't think I applied too much last time. I'm guessing maybe 30lb at the most, but prob more like 20.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
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    4,887

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    Wouldn't be too concerned about the size hammer you use , but the amount of force required to break the taper.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

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    The problem you have is that the drawbar can apply way more force in tension than compression. I bet you it's basically a piece of allthread. You need to make a much thicker drawbar that is necked down to threaded ends. Then your hammer blows will actually do something.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Wouldn't be too concerned about the size hammer you use , but the amount of force required to break the taper.
    Yep well for little 'ol me standing on a ladder and not wanting to smash the quill pulley I found the 4 pounder better but I did hit it pretty hard.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
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    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    The problem you have is that the drawbar can apply way more force in tension than compression. I bet you it's basically a piece of allthread. You need to make a much thicker drawbar that is necked down to threaded ends. Then your hammer blows will actually do something.
    I reckon you're right there.
    The threaded rod is probably quivering when hit.
    Would you suggest bright bar as a replacement ?

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
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    1,522

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    Yeah pretty much any material will be fine. I'd consider just tap a hole in the end and put commercial threaded stock in

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    You don't want to be cranking on the drawbar with a great big spanner ! I use this for tightening my drawbar.
    No big spanner, just a hand tight nip is plenty.

    31-07-2019x001.jpg 31-07-2019x003.JPG
    That "T" handle is only 4" inches long ! I use the same tool when removing the Morse taper tools, but I have a self release cap on the top of my drawbar. A tap with your 4lb hammer should be all it takes to release the taper.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    You don't want to be cranking on the drawbar with a great big spanner ! I use this for tightening my drawbar.
    No big spanner, just a hand tight nip is plenty.

    31-07-2019x001.jpg 31-07-2019x003.JPG
    That "T" handle is only 4" inches long ! I use the same tool when removing the Morse taper tools, but I have a self release cap on the top of my drawbar. A tap with your 4lb hammer should be all it takes to release the taper.
    Yeah I agree it should be like that.
    I rarely have trouble with tapers on my lathe, and they don't use a drawbar, well not in the tailstock anyway.
    If I do get taper slip I just hit it with WD40 and it grips like crazy.

    So getting back to the mill. I run a 10mm 4flute end mill though some aluminium, only 2mm deep and noticed the chuck stop briefly every now and then so I had to tighten the drawbar a fair bit.
    I had a feel up the morse and I reckon it's a bit rough. Do you think an MT3 reamer would clean it up ? or would the quill steel be too hard ?

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    I reckon you're right there.
    The threaded rod is probably quivering when hit.
    Would you suggest bright bar as a replacement ?
    Any bar stock will do
    Using Tapatalk

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    Yeah I agree it should be like that.
    I rarely have trouble with tapers on my lathe, and they don't use a drawbar, well not in the tailstock anyway.
    If I do get taper slip I just hit it with WD40 and it grips like crazy.

    So getting back to the mill. I run a 10mm 4flute end mill though some aluminium, only 2mm deep and noticed the chuck stop briefly every now and then so I had to tighten the drawbar a fair bit.
    I had a feel up the morse and I reckon it's a bit rough. Do you think an MT3 reamer would clean it up ? or would the quill steel be too hard ?
    You could try a MT reamer, buy it doesn't take much for my MT3 tailstock to slip and need a dog with a large drill bit, tighten it up good.
    Using Tapatalk

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    Yeah I agree it should be like that.
    I rarely have trouble with tapers on my lathe, and they don't use a drawbar, well not in the tailstock anyway.
    If I do get taper slip I just hit it with WD40 and it grips like crazy.
    If I have chuck slippage, I'll have to try that trick.

    So getting back to the mill. I run a 10mm 4flute end mill though some aluminium, only 2mm deep and noticed the chuck stop briefly every now and then so I had to tighten the drawbar a fair bit.
    I had a feel up the morse and I reckon it's a bit rough. Do you think an MT3 reamer would clean it up ? or would the quill steel be too hard ?
    The only way to find out would be to get one and try it. FWIW my mill spindle is quite soft and would ream out easily.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Well I've already used the new mill to make a couple of small parts.
    I gotta tell ya, I should have got one years ago. Gee wizz they're a great thing.
    It's no problem for me to transition over to a mill because I've been using a metal lathe for 40 years.

    I did learn one thing yesterday that I didn't expect, the swarf, it comes off in super fine needles that like to stick into you.
    and they hurt. I'm keeping my shop vac close and at the ready with this machine.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    Well I've already used the new mill to make a couple of small parts.
    I gotta tell ya, I should have got one years ago. Gee wizz they're a great thing.
    It's no problem for me to transition over to a mill because I've been using a metal lathe for 40 years.

    I did learn one thing yesterday that I didn't expect, the swarf, it comes off in super fine needles that like to stick into you.
    and they hurt. I'm keeping my shop vac close and at the ready with this machine.
    That's why I always have burns on me. When I use my 63mm carbide insert face mill, it throws hot blue chips everywhere and you soon know about it if one hits you and sticks.
    Using Tapatalk

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Phaser, Guys,

    You don't want to be cranking on the drawbar with a great big spanner ! I use this for tightening my drawbar.
    No big spanner, just a hand tight nip is plenty.

    31-07-2019x001.jpg 31-07-2019x003.JPG
    That "T" handle is only 4" inches long ! I use the same tool when removing the Morse taper tools, but I have a self release cap on the top of my drawbar. A tap with your 4lb hammer should be all it takes to release the taper.
    Just realized your T handle is battery powered.....that's handy.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
    Posts
    422

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Here are my instructions.
    Just watched that guy's videos and had me double checking because I thought my jaws where reversable.

    Sure enough Fuerda lathe chucks fixed that jaw arrangement with reversable jaws as you can see in the picture.
    The sheet metal backplate on mine had no through hole, but that was an easy fix.

    Sorry about the multiple posts, Tapatalk now won't let you put up more than 1 photo unless you pay, so I've just found out.
    Hi mate,
    My tilting chuck has some play in the worm drive. I'm a bit worried about using it in case it breaks a cutter or worse.
    Have you had yours disassembled or fiddled with any adjustments ?

    I made a little video to explain : https://youtu.be/kKgNCda_nQ8

    Also I wonder about the position of the locking lever.
    It feels like it should travel around a little further to make a positive lock.

    20200604_205212[1].jpg

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