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Thread: Chuck has a ring
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17th Dec 2019, 12:40 PM #61Senior Member
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I'm still having trouble with the quill taper.
I had the 50mm facing cutter in there, and wanted to remove it to put the collet chuck in.
With the quill locked tight it took a 4 pound hammer to knock the drawbar down this time
The drawbar is just a 12mm threaded rod with a nut at the top. How much torque should I apply to it when tightening a tool into the morse ?
I didn't think I applied too much last time. I'm guessing maybe 30lb at the most, but prob more like 20.
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17th Dec 2019, 12:57 PM #62Most Valued Member
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Wouldn't be too concerned about the size hammer you use , but the amount of force required to break the taper.
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17th Dec 2019, 01:49 PM #63Most Valued Member
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The problem you have is that the drawbar can apply way more force in tension than compression. I bet you it's basically a piece of allthread. You need to make a much thicker drawbar that is necked down to threaded ends. Then your hammer blows will actually do something.
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17th Dec 2019, 04:37 PM #64Senior Member
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17th Dec 2019, 04:39 PM #65Senior Member
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17th Dec 2019, 08:45 PM #66Most Valued Member
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Yeah pretty much any material will be fine. I'd consider just tap a hole in the end and put commercial threaded stock in
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17th Dec 2019, 09:09 PM #67
Hi Phaser, Guys,
You don't want to be cranking on the drawbar with a great big spanner ! I use this for tightening my drawbar.
No big spanner, just a hand tight nip is plenty.
31-07-2019x001.jpg 31-07-2019x003.JPG
That "T" handle is only 4" inches long ! I use the same tool when removing the Morse taper tools, but I have a self release cap on the top of my drawbar. A tap with your 4lb hammer should be all it takes to release the taper.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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17th Dec 2019, 09:49 PM #68Senior Member
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Yeah I agree it should be like that.
I rarely have trouble with tapers on my lathe, and they don't use a drawbar, well not in the tailstock anyway.
If I do get taper slip I just hit it with WD40 and it grips like crazy.
So getting back to the mill. I run a 10mm 4flute end mill though some aluminium, only 2mm deep and noticed the chuck stop briefly every now and then so I had to tighten the drawbar a fair bit.
I had a feel up the morse and I reckon it's a bit rough. Do you think an MT3 reamer would clean it up ? or would the quill steel be too hard ?
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17th Dec 2019, 09:56 PM #69
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17th Dec 2019, 09:59 PM #70
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17th Dec 2019, 10:02 PM #71
If I have chuck slippage, I'll have to try that trick.
So getting back to the mill. I run a 10mm 4flute end mill though some aluminium, only 2mm deep and noticed the chuck stop briefly every now and then so I had to tighten the drawbar a fair bit.
I had a feel up the morse and I reckon it's a bit rough. Do you think an MT3 reamer would clean it up ? or would the quill steel be too hard ?Best Regards:
Baron J.
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19th Dec 2019, 01:07 PM #72Senior Member
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Well I've already used the new mill to make a couple of small parts.
I gotta tell ya, I should have got one years ago. Gee wizz they're a great thing.
It's no problem for me to transition over to a mill because I've been using a metal lathe for 40 years.
I did learn one thing yesterday that I didn't expect, the swarf, it comes off in super fine needles that like to stick into you.
and they hurt. I'm keeping my shop vac close and at the ready with this machine.
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19th Dec 2019, 01:12 PM #73
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3rd Jun 2020, 01:34 PM #74Senior Member
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4th Jun 2020, 09:45 PM #75Senior Member
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Hi mate,
My tilting chuck has some play in the worm drive. I'm a bit worried about using it in case it breaks a cutter or worse.
Have you had yours disassembled or fiddled with any adjustments ?
I made a little video to explain : https://youtu.be/kKgNCda_nQ8
Also I wonder about the position of the locking lever.
It feels like it should travel around a little further to make a positive lock.
20200604_205212[1].jpg
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