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  1. #46
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    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Unlikely to be magnesium - would be too expensive. For that one I would machine off the top flange (leaving a round spigot, machine up a disc from Al with a hole to fit the spigot and then weld it in place. Reprofile to suit.

    Michael
    That's a great idea Mike.
    I've got a couple of spare pulleys too. Maybe one of them can be utilized. Otherwise I should already have a piece of aluminium that will do the job.

  2. #47
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    Nov 2012
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    Yet another thing :
    The scale that's been fitted on the front of the table. It means the motor drive end switch has been left off and mechanical stops can't be used either.
    Don't you think it should have been mounted at the rear of the table ?

    P1040093.jpg

  3. #48
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    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi phaser,


    Yes I can confirm the height as 32" inches for the cabinet plus 1" deep for the catch tray and another 5.5" inches to the mill table surface. so 37.5" in total.
    Thanks for that.
    My stand is 30.5" and the mill base to table top is 8.5", so 39" total is good enough I say.
    I just want that info in case I decide to swap the wheels to little legs for more stability. I'll prob do it anyway in the future cos I'd install jacks into the legs to give me proper leveling adjustment.

    P1040096.jpg

  4. #49
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    Yet another thing :
    The scale that's been fitted on the front of the table. It means the motor drive end switch has been left off and mechanical stops can't be used either.
    Don't you think it should have been mounted at the rear of the table ?

    P1040093.jpg
    Like I have done and many others, fitting the scale to the front of the table leaves your Y travel as factory. Mounting it at the back reduces it.

    Have a look around on the internet, plenty have done it to these Mills and have power feeds. My suggestion would be to mount a T track to the front of the scale, which would give it a bit of protection.
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #50
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    5,942

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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    That larger lever, does that move the motor, or does it require the use of a spanner on the nut? The small one, I know is a locking bolt for I presume the motor.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #51
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    Nov 2012
    Location
    Mid North Coast NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    That larger lever, does that move the motor, or does it require the use of a spanner on the nut? The small one, I know is a locking bolt for I presume the motor.
    Kryn
    Do you mean the large lever pointed to in the photo below ?
    It's for unlocking the head from the column, same as the nuts above and below it.
    The motor belt adjusting nut is on a sliding rod which would be only threaded on the end, and the small lever tightens onto the rod.

    large lever.jpg

  7. #52
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    May 2011
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    Yes, that's the lever I was refering to, thanks. It shoots that idea down. Just thought that it could be modified in some way to make a racking device to adjust motor tension. The only way that I can see to make it quicker is to put a push type toggle clamp, to push away the motor giving tension on the belt.Push Toggle.jpg
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  8. #53
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    Nov 2012
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    Mid North Coast NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Yes, that's the lever I was refering to, thanks. It shoots that idea down. Just thought that it could be modified in some way to make a racking device to adjust motor tension. The only way that I can see to make it quicker is to put a push type toggle clamp, to push away the motor giving tension on the belt.Push Toggle.jpg
    Kryn
    I thought about designing a cam operating lever to push from behind the nut. Will do that later.

  9. #54
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    Nov 2012
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    Mid North Coast NSW
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    I just finished cleaning up the column and oiling it.
    That meant I had to wind it all the way down then all the way up. Holy hell it takes some effort. I've definitely gotta look at installing some sort of motor drive to that.

    But for now, the last job I have to do before I can try cutting something is to tighten the Y lead screw nut. It's very hard to wind in or out, which I'm sure is because the nut is tilting and binding up on the thread.
    The bolt that secures the lead nut is located at the back and in the middle of the X way. That means I have to slide the table one direction a bit past half way to get at it.

    Would you : remove the feed motor ass. and slide it right using the handle....or....remove the handle and slide it left using the feed motor ?
    Not sure I'm too keen about removing the feed ass. At the same time, I'm not sure what I'll find behind that handle.

    P1040098.jpg

  10. #55
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Phaser,

    I saw a similar mill that had been stripped down and the cross slide nut was just a "T" shaped piece hammered into a hole. No adjustment that I recall. I thought it was very crude. There was no support for the screw at the far end either.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #56
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    Nov 2012
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    Mid North Coast NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Phaser,

    I saw a similar mill that had been stripped down and the cross slide nut was just a "T" shaped piece hammered into a hole. No adjustment that I recall. I thought it was very crude. There was no support for the screw at the far end either.
    Yes I think it's prob this one.

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/MC615

    PS I just had a close look....It's pretty much just a square block.

  12. #57
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    Dec 2013
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    Yeah when I got my 3rd replacement brand new HM52 mill I went through it and because of all the problems I had previously.

    I went down and picked this mill over a few others they had for me to inspect, but you don't get the option of pulling it apart, lol

    After getting it redelived I pulled it completely down.
    My Y axis has one screw thread holding the nut in, but amongst other things I found the height of the nut was wrong and needed to add a shim to lower it to center line of the leadscrew to true it up, and make winding the Y axis smooth both ends. Doing this straight away has saved having to make or buy a new nut as it would have worn out quickly.

    I consider these Chinese mills are to be seen as a project, as long as they measure up accurately with the table not tapered or warped etc as my first 2 where, Y axis square to the column etc, go through them and you will have a good accurate milling machine for many years to come.
    Using Tapatalk

  13. #58
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    Nov 2012
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    Mid North Coast NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Yeah when I got my 3rd replacement brand new HM52 mill I went through it and because of all the problems I had previously.

    I went down and picked this mill over a few others they had for me to inspect, but you don't get the option of pulling it apart, lol

    After getting it redelived I pulled it completely down.
    My Y axis has one screw thread holding the nut in, but amongst other things I found the height of the nut was wrong and needed to add a shim to lower it to center line of the leadscrew to true it up, and make winding the Y axis smooth both ends. Doing this straight away has saved having to make or buy a new nut as it would have worn out quickly.

    I consider these Chinese mills are to be seen as a project, as long as they measure up accurately with the table not tapered or warped etc as my first 2 where, Y axis square to the column etc, go through them and you will have a good accurate milling machine for many years to come.
    Mine's made in Taiwan. I hope that speaks for something. I keep hearing that stuff made in Taiwan is better than China.
    I run the table left past half way and tightened the Y nut. The screw had to go down about 1/2 an inch. Not so tight to move the Y now. It gave me the opportunity to do some cleaning and oiling too.

    Tomorrow I'm going to do some accuracy checks to see what's on and what's not.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    Mine's made in Taiwan. I hope that speaks for something. I keep hearing that stuff made in Taiwan is better than China.
    I run the table left past half way and tightened the Y nut. The screw had to go down about 1/2 an inch. Not so tight to move the Y now. It gave me the opportunity to do some cleaning and oiling too.

    Tomorrow I'm going to do some accuracy checks to see what's on and what's not.
    Yeah mine was no where near 1/2 inch, maybe 0.3-6 mm maximum. I just like my machines perfect.
    Using Tapatalk

  15. #60
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    Nov 2012
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    Mid North Coast NSW
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    Just gave it a test using the 50mm 4xTC insert facing cutter that came with the machine.
    I stuck an old aluminum computer heatsink in the vise (base up) and run 2 parallel X cuts, then 2 parallel Y cuts looking for a ridge in the surface between the passes.
    The result was a smooth surface with no ridge at all....perfect.
    I'm so happy to see the column is at least vertical to the slides.

    Next is to check if the column is vertical to the table.

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