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6th Dec 2019, 07:53 PM #1New Member
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Advice on having a custom stainless steel top-plate made
Hi all,
I'm not sure if this is the thread to ask in, but I'm seeking some advice on having some stainless steel top-plates remade. Any advice, or even a nod in the right direction regarding the job would be greatly appreciated.
Attached are photos of the piece I'm looking at remaking, it's a top-plate from an amplifier.
Material looks to be 2mm brushed stainless steel (plated, or coloured somehow in a champagne finish)
I have the following questions:
- Does anyone know of a company, or person(s), that accept small-run requests like this? I'm only requiring two of these be made.
- I would require the cutouts done, edge bending, and potentially the colour plating (I'm really not sure what this process may be yet).
- I will be providing a digital recreation of the part, so I'm only requiring the manufacturing side.
Thanks again for any advice given.
Regards
78369578_986186605071204_4200334808393449472_n.jpg78397606_2892832360728151_6679551065932693504_n.jpg78671915_420699092168527_6086707452936454144_n.jpg
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6th Dec 2019, 08:48 PM #2Philomath in training
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Just looking at the photo you have posted, I would say that is aluminium rather than stainless.
The colour would be obtained by anodizing.
What is the approximate size of it?
Michael
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6th Dec 2019, 09:12 PM #3
Hi Tamura,
Welcome to our Metal Working Forum.
It looks like brushed aluminium to my eye. It would make sense to keep amps light weight for transport and such unless they are being used in a Blues Brothers show type environment where tough stainless might be required?
Perhaps if you called a sheet metal shop they might have knowledge of such plate specialists.The job definitely requires a punched metal operation and that very likely means it is CNC. The thing is how costly will be a 2 off job as the whole operation still will require set up and programming?
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Again welcome to the Forum.
Grahame
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6th Dec 2019, 09:19 PM #4New Member
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6th Dec 2019, 09:20 PM #5
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6th Dec 2019, 09:23 PM #6New Member
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6th Dec 2019, 09:32 PM #7Philomath in training
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(I think you meant cm on a couple of those measurements)
Right, so holes up to around 60mm diameter. Next question, how clean do the holes have to be? (Are the edges covered with something or are they going to be visible?)
Michael
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6th Dec 2019, 09:45 PM #8New Member
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Yes indeed you are correct, sorry I've had a long day and the mind is a little scrambled! End of the week..
And yep, the largest holes are pretty much 6cm in diameter. The holes will be visible, they are gaps for valves to sit in.
Should the brushed finish be made pre, or post cutting the holes? I'm aware you can buy pre-brushed aluminium, but also that you can make the finish yourself (to a certain degree).
I've attached a photo for reference.
Thanks again Michael.
78314514_582329109251807_2788889614398521344_n.jpg
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6th Dec 2019, 10:14 PM #9
Hi Guys,
That top plate will have been punched and then anodised and then printed. Apart from an earth connection, all the hard work is done underneath on the sub plate.
Actually that layout looks somewhat familiar ! I'd guess at a pair of KT88 or EL34's for the output tubes/valves.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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6th Dec 2019, 10:16 PM #10Senior Member
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You could try here,
https://www.stereo.net.au/forums/#
go down to the DIY section and ask. Someone should be able to point you in the right direction.
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6th Dec 2019, 10:21 PM #11China
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For a one off having it LASER cut or water jet cut I believe would be less expensive than having it punched
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6th Dec 2019, 10:58 PM #12Most Valued Member
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If you get it laser cut they can probably laser engrave the text at the same time.
If you can find sheet with the right finish off the shelf should be cheaper than getting something anodized. You'd need to liaise with whoever is doing the cutting to make sure they are happy with the material if you are supplying it.
Steve
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7th Dec 2019, 07:29 AM #13Philomath in training
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I had some parts quoted recently for water jet cutting and let's just say that while a wonderful way of cutting I would hesitate to go down that path for a small job...
My best suggestion for this would be to sandwich the Al sheet together (cut two at once), possibly with a sacraficial cover sheet on top. Take the holes close to size with a hole saw and then use a boring head to take the holes to final size with a neat finish.
Brushing is probably best done after cutting the holes. More than likely the hole cutting operations would scuff the brushed surface anyway, so why do it twice? I think a scotchbright disc would probably give a soft brushed finish; the final finish is probably best discussed with the anodizers as their processing would probably alter the result.
I'd offer to have a go for you but already have enough tasks to keep me busy for the next few months. It's not difficult though if you have a mill and boring head.
Michael
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7th Dec 2019, 06:42 PM #14
Not sure of your metal working skills but when I was playing with valve equipment I would punch the base plate at home using a simple hole punch, they were available for round and square holes and just needed a bit of time and some spanners to do them up.
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/punch...tions/3886368/
A bit harder to find these days and there are hydraulic versions as well.
Can brush the finish with a sander or drill to give an even finish and a coat of clear to keep it looking good.
Can also be sent for anodising but due to the chemicals involved it is getting harder to find platers to do the job at a reasonable price.
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8th Dec 2019, 12:40 PM #15Most Valued Member
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I've always known those punches as "chassis punches".
Dad was an industrial electrician and always had them in his toolbox for making holes in steel cabinets for cable bushes etc
Steve
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