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Thread: Templates
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18th Oct 2019, 12:05 PM #1
Templates
I need two templates made, the Jeep side body panels have folded edges. This drawing explains the shape, I need maybe 15mm thick templates .
The #18 gauge sheet is clamped between the templates and the edges folded.
Maybe strong wood would suffice but Id like to reuse the templates a few times and wood would not last that long.
Maybe the steel templates could be water cut ? Any ideas ? The shape would have to be CAD drawn I think ?
BTW I know about the Phillipino made repro Jeep tubs, the quality is .. well, hit and miss , some people have fitted them Ok but many others have had major headaches with these bodies.
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18th Oct 2019, 03:35 PM #2Most Valued Member
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I'd probably use something like 3mm steel, cut to the pattern required and glue that onto something like sheet flooring to give some rigidity to it.
The reason I'm suggesting 3mm is to give it some strength so that the edges don't curl over from the continious peening.
I pressume that once the sheet is cut to shape, it's laid on the pattern and then the overhang peened over to give it the strength required?
You could only get the one cut and attach it to the sheet on which ever side is needed by screws.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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18th Oct 2019, 05:00 PM #3Member
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One question, just how deep is your pocket ?
Something tells me that the hit and miss available parts, will be a bloody lot cheaper and easier to get hold of.
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18th Oct 2019, 06:22 PM #4Most Valued Member
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If you’re just hammer forming an edge in one direction then cut the piece you form against out of steel and use form ply or other decent quality ply as the clamp. Cutting the steel won’t be cheap but it shouldn’t be poisonous either. I’d look at cutting some holes in it to lighten it a bit also, a form for a Jeep tub will be heavy.
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18th Oct 2019, 06:23 PM #5
Hmmm
Not really: as an example , the rear panel is just a simple flat panel with folded edges, the repro ones are $500 Aus. The tub kit is around $3000 US and 90% of it is flat panels, the whole body kit is $7000 I believe.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=2KXancgN-fk
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19th Oct 2019, 10:15 AM #6
Wood
Thinking about the former, I might try using a plywood inner section and then attach metal edging around the perimeter of the ply. Maybe some 6mm x 15mm bar (or two bars sandwiched together ) bent to the shape of the layout would be strong enough to handle the stress of the hammering and peening.
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20th Oct 2019, 01:25 AM #7
Hi Guys,
Maybe not a suitable medium for this job, but I've used "Granite" kitchen worktop material to form copper boiler ends. It quite hard and takes a lot of hammer without deforming. Though the edges will chip if you happen to catch it. The other advantage is that it will shape easily with a rasp, sandpaper or a file.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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20th Oct 2019, 04:14 PM #8Most Valued Member
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My concern would be that the metal edging would pull out/away as the panel was being peened down.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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20th Oct 2019, 08:14 PM #9
bracing
Yeah , I could brace the former by welding in flat bar say every six inches across the width and weld in fill in pieces too. BTW after studying the plans, I need a 3/4" wide former , imperial size stuff isn't easy to find these days, don't think 18mm is a off the shelf size either.
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20th Oct 2019, 09:03 PM #10Most Valued Member
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Here's a thought that's out of the ball park.
Would it be possible to make the shape out of flat bar, then weld in behind that a substantial piece of flat bar so that it creates a "T"? Then using some RHS with slots to go over the vertical of the T, so that the timber could be cut out to help support the template and giving you a surface to clamp your sheet side panel to.
Pretty sure that 19mm MDF or Chipboard is available, and as far as the metal edging goes, 20mm is as close as it comes, that can be cleaned up by using a drum belt sander, with a 40 grit belt shouldn't take too long to take off a MM as in millimetre, NOT morrisman.
Hope you get the gist of what I'm trying to say.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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20th Oct 2019, 10:00 PM #11
It’s interesting the drawing is in decimal inches.
We made formers for the alerons on P47s being restored at the Quantas jet base and the drawing where fractional. Interesting getting my head back around 1/32s etc.
At Leyland Oz in the early 70s we worked to decimal inches even the big plates had 10” square blocks to mount stuff on.
I think you’ll find 3/4” is 19 mm which is available but taking two 1mm or whatever gauge steel will give you less.
I’d suggest MD3 that MDF with 5 times the glue which was used for public dunny doors but I haven’t seen it for a few decades. I used to turn up bucks for production metal spinning out of this muck on the wood lathe.
With the return on the top edge steel plate looks the best bet but you might get away with Aluminium for a small number and you can cut that out yourself on a wood Bandsaw.
Looks like a fun project good to have drawing to work from rather than bashed and rusted old panels.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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21st Oct 2019, 01:07 AM #12Senior Member
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High Density Fibreboard (HDF) is stronger and harder than MDF. It should work as an alternative to MD3. Micarta (the red linen stuff) would be even stronger but take the precautions about the dust when machining it.
Pete
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21st Oct 2019, 09:36 AM #13
Instead of MDF try Formply. If you gently heat/warm the metal as you bend it you will benefit keep bucket and wet rag handy to shrink areas as you go.
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21st Oct 2019, 01:37 PM #14
Theres formply and formply.
I have a few off cuts here and some is twice the weight of the other.
Oz hardwood verses Asian whatever.
Guess which one is way stronger.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)