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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    Default What weight hammer?

    Recently I was looking for another (ball-pein) hammer and started thinking about hammer weights. At the moment I have a couple of 16oz hammers for general use plus a 32oz for really belting things. I was trying to work out whether a 12 oz or possibly a 24oz would be useful. Finding hammers that are balanced well to try the heft is hard too - the average Bunnings does not quite get there.
    I'd be interested to know what weight hammers others use and whether they they find a variety of sizes useful.

    I looked up hammer weights on the internet but all I could find was that the weights are of the heads. Lots of stuff about heavier heads delivering more energy but being more tiring to swing. I don't use my BP's all day - mainly to mark centres and knock pins in (or out). I find that a 16oz and a lazy swing centre pops nicely. I suspect a heavier hammer would be wasted but perhaps a 12oz would do just as well.

    Thoughts?

    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,628

    Default

    I swing a much bigger hammer than 32oz all day long but I was surprised to find I got a better centre punch mark with a Sammy to mid sized ball pien than I was getting with my large ball pien.
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Hi Michael

    The hammers are like screw drivers in some respects.

    Just one screwdriver cannot perform the potential range of work in driving every type of screw.

    So it is with hammers.

    A 4oz hammer is not effective with a 1 inch cold chisel, as is a 28 lb hammer is not much chop in striking a fine centerpop.

    Horses for courses ,mate!

    Grahame

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I have two hammers which I tend to grab in preference to some of the others that I have. One is the 16 oz brass headed aluminium and plastic faced one that I made and use most for adjusting things ! Usually on the mill. And the other a 1/2 Ib ball pien one for all other things, including centre punches.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
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    5,942

    Default

    You'll find several different sized ball peins in my shed, from a tiny little one for making gaskets etc up to about a 16oz. Anything requiring larger treatment calls for a mash or sledge hammer or a hydraulic ram and chains.
    I find that the smaller ball peins are great for use on prick punches, they don't hurt your hand so much when you miss.
    A common occurence lately, with the shakes.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    I have many hammers..ball and pein mainly..varying weights

    some with standard handles and others with short handles...good for getting into tight spaces.

    I have no idea what constitutes a "balanced" hammer or what one feels like..never have and will no doubt never know. Someone like a blacksmith will no doubt say they can, but I dont think it matters to us who use one infrequently.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    Default

    This is my frequently used metal working hammers, then I have a range of woodworking hammers of different weights, wooden hammers and dead blows for the mill/lathe etc.
    You can never have too many hammers.
    I'm the same as Richard, never felt a balanced hammer, there all heavy one end lol.
    Using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Eskimo made a really good point about hammer handles.

    Hammers can be matched to the user if the effort has been taken to adjust the handle length.

    A matched handle to the users hand and grip size makes a world of difference.

    Then consider grip size.
    Some like myself have small hands that don't comfortably grip the larger circumference of hammer handles made for those who have dinner plate size hands.

    Head weight and length of handle are important too. The throwing tomahawks we use in competition ( rendezvous muzzle loading ) have handles matched to the length of the users forearm.It is achieved by holding the head in the hand and measuring back to the crooked elbow.

    It follows that hammers should be much the same.

    When in the trade I recall some hammers were just a joy to use because of the correct handle length and this in turn made their balance just right.

    Just some observations.

    Grahame

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Eskimo made a really good point about hammer handles.

    Hammers can be matched to the user if the effort has been taken to adjust the handle length.

    A matched handle to the users hand and grip size makes a world of difference.

    Then consider grip size.
    Some like myself have small hands that don't comfortably grip the larger circumference of hammer handles made for those who have dinner plate size hands.

    Head weight and length of handle are important too. The throwing tomahawks we use in competition ( rendezvous muzzle loading ) have handles matched to the length of the users forearm.It is achieved by holding the head in the hand and measuring back to the crooked elbow.

    It follows that hammers should be much the same.

    When in the trade I recall some hammers were just a joy to use because of the correct handle length and this in turn made their balance just right.

    Just some observations.

    Grahame
    Thanks Graham's for the incite into handle legnths etc.
    I have large hands, but factory length handles seem to work well for me, there usually longer the heavier the hammer.
    Using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Thanks Graham's for the incite into handle legnths etc.
    I have large hands, but factory length handles seem to work well for me, there usually longer the heavier the hammer.
    I think we all have a "go to" hammer that is comfortable for most jobs.

    Sure the big mothers are better for heavy work, but that's the exception I find.

    So the weight really depends on your regular/most common use requirements and your physical build.

    Too light and they bounce off the job, too heavy and it's overkill that will wear you out.

    "Just right" is an individual thing.
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    56
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    Default

    I don't really have a go to hammer, whatever the job needs I use X hammer to suit what I'm doing.
    Using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    ...I have no idea what constitutes a "balanced" hammer or what one feels like...
    Some hammers I've picked up feel 'head heavy' - or to put it another way, the handle is light enough that it feels like you have to lift the hammer just to keep it level. Other hammers feel like they just sit nicely in your hand and take no effort to hold them. I tried one in a hardware store on the weekend and it felt terrible. It was not until I moved my hand up the handle around 4" that it felt reasonable. By then half the leverage is gone.

    I'm told one reason for a pommel on a sword was to try and balance it up a bit - move the weight back so that it was less strain on the wrist to counter the rotation downwards that something with all the weight in the blade would produce.

    I'm happy with the hammers I have. The question was more of interest to see whether there was a common weight of hammer used or vast collections or...

    Michael

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Some hammers I've picked up feel 'head heavy' - or to put it another way, the handle is light enough that it feels like you have to lift the hammer just to keep it level. Other hammers feel like they just sit nicely in your hand and take no effort to hold them. I tried one in a hardware store on the weekend and it felt terrible. It was not until I moved my hand up the handle around 4" that it felt reasonable. By then half the leverage is gone.

    I'm told one reason for a pommel on a sword was to try and balance it up a bit - move the weight back so that it was less strain on the wrist to counter the rotation downwards that something with all the weight in the blade would produce.

    I'm happy with the hammers I have. The question was more of interest to see whether there was a common weight of hammer used or vast collections or...

    Michael
    Honestly, I've never really noticed a balanced hammer.
    Supercheap years ago had a runout of hickory handled ballpeen hammers from memory, I went in and bought every size for around $60 for all sizes.
    The heads are a bit soft compared to my older hammers, but still do the job.
    Using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville, Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    225

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    Eskimo made a really good point about hammer handles.

    Hammers can be matched to the user if the effort has been taken to adjust the handle length.

    A matched handle to the users hand and grip size makes a world of difference.

    Then consider grip size.
    Some like myself have small hands that don't comfortably grip the larger circumference of hammer handles made for those who have dinner plate size hands.

    Head weight and length of handle are important too. The throwing tomahawks we use in competition ( rendezvous muzzle loading ) have handles matched to the length of the users forearm.It is achieved by holding the head in the hand and measuring back to the crooked elbow.

    It follows that hammers should be much the same.

    When in the trade I recall some hammers were just a joy to use because of the correct handle length and this in turn made their balance just right.

    Just some observations.

    Grahame
    As Grahame and others have said, there is no right or wrong when it comes to hammer weight, handle length and diameter. My dad was a blacksmith, his business was in our backyard and one of the skills he taught me was rehandling hammers. I import my own Hickory handles from Tennessee and match them to the individual persons grip. I often throw one into the woodlathe and reduce or reshape it's profile to suit.
    I actually prefer a longer and larger grip, even though I have small hands. Wonderful topic guys.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
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    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    I like sledgeys the best they move things further

    Use them quite a lot at work and often Im "furthering" my log splitter into curly grained logs at home by swinging the sledge with one hand while holding the splitter in the other hand, must invest in a hydraulic splitter as Im getting too old for it nowdays and my log splitter is getting burred over like a well used coal chisel
    ....................................................................

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