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  1. #1
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    Default Another "How to attach a collet chuck to my lathe ? "

    Hi all, I have one of the old Tiawanese lathes with a Forbes badge, I rebuilt it some time ago and posted the details in this thread - https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t136...t=forbes+lathe
    It looks like all the pics have disappeared all bar this one. I can take more if anyone is interested.

    IMG_0680.jpg

    Anyway, to cut to the chase, I am wanting to be able to use a collet chuck on it. The spindle thread is something like 1 15/16" x 8tpi ( or it could even be 50mm with a 8tpi thread cut on it ), and it has a #4.5 MT.
    I can get a reducing sleeve from the states to step down from MT4.5 to MT3, then run a collet chuck with MT3 and a drawbar, but I would prefer a collet chuck that screwed directly onto the spindle thread, or an adapter to step the spindle down to M30 x 3.5 to accept a ER32 chuck that I use on my wood lathe.

    I remember there was someone who said they got something made up to go on one of these lathes ( maybe was a faceplate ? ) around the time I was rebuilding mine, but I can't find , or remember the details.

    Does anyone have any suggestions where I can go from here ?
    ​Brad.
    Every Day might not be a good Day,
    but there is something good in every Day.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Does your machine do imperial threading, do you have the changewheels?

  3. #3
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    Default

    If you can get a backplate (as for chuck mounting) that fits your lathe spindle, collet chucks are available that could mount to that.
    For example https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ER25-ER3...hbcsIz5snueJHw
    so it's just like mounting a new 3 or 4 jaw chuck.

    A neater solution might be to (get someone) to make a collet chuck that doesn't use a backplate, and screws directly onto your spindle.

    Either way requires some careful finish fitting for best accuracy.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    Does your machine do imperial threading, do you have the changewheels?
    Unfortunateley I don’t have the imperial change gears for this lathe, so I am only able to cut metric threads.
    ​Brad.
    Every Day might not be a good Day,
    but there is something good in every Day.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    If you can get a backplate (as for chuck mounting) that fits your lathe spindle, collet chucks are available that could mount to that.
    For example https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ER25-ER3...hbcsIz5snueJHw
    so it's just like mounting a new 3 or 4 jaw chuck.

    A neater solution might be to (get someone) to make a collet chuck that doesn't use a backplate, and screws directly onto your spindle.

    Either way requires some careful finish fitting for best accuracy.
    I have been searching the net for such a backplate, but having no luck, in fact I wouldn’t mind a couple of them.
    The “neater solution “ sounds great, but being an oddball size would seem to make things difficult for someone to take on, without having the spindle available to test fit.
    ​Brad.
    Every Day might not be a good Day,
    but there is something good in every Day.

  6. #6
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    Brad I use straight shank collet chucks, so if you have a 4 jaw chuck these might suit you also.
    They are cheap and you dial the collet chuck in and they are accurate, quicker to set up if your 4 jaw is already on the spindle and you can also use longer stock lengths as these have a hollow shaft with no draw bar blocking the end of the hole.
    They are made in all er sizes and a few different shaft lengths.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...itch_new_app=y

  7. #7
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    Default

    I would say a Morse 41/2 collet chuck would be pretty hard to get but like shed says you could just use a straight shank one in a homemade mt41/2 sleeve?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Brad I use straight shank collet chucks, so if you have a 4 jaw chuck these might suit you also.
    They are cheap and you dial the collet chuck in and they are accurate, quicker to set up if your 4 jaw is already on the spindle and you can also use longer stock lengths as these have a hollow shaft with no draw bar blocking the end of the hole.
    They are made in all er sizes and a few different shaft lengths.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...itch_new_app=y
    The lathe only came with one faceplate, with a 3 jaw chuck. For a lot of stuff I have been using it for, this has been OK, but now I want some better accuracy than what I can get using the 3 jaw.



    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    I would say a Morse 41/2 collet chuck would be pretty hard to get but like shed says you could just use a straight shank one in a homemade mt41/2 sleeve?
    I haven't been able to find a MT4.5 collet chuck. The best I can do, is the 4.5 to 3 sleeve. Making my own could be an option I guess, though I doubt I would get it as good as a bought one.
    ​Brad.
    Every Day might not be a good Day,
    but there is something good in every Day.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Here are a couple of pics.
    The thread appears to be 8tpi.
    The non-threaded section near the headstock is bang on 50mm, the threaded section was turned down to 49mm, you can see the step in the photo.


    DSC_0235.jpg

    This is the faceplate, it seems to be a pretty neat fit over the 50mm section.
    DSC_0237.jpg
    ​Brad.
    Every Day might not be a good Day,
    but there is something good in every Day.

  10. #10
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    Default

    One possibility is to DIY an MT4.5 x ER32 collet chuck and hold it in place with a hollow draw tube. An MT5 x ER32 version allows through stock up to 20mm, that should also be possible with MT4.5. No imperial threads required.

  11. #11
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    I used the backing plate to make/replicate spindle nose then use that to cut the internal thread...
    The dummy is brass and cut that thread by turning the chuck by hand to the shoulder! Put it on highest speed and that makes it easier to turn by hand.

    Here is the link for the collet chuck
    https://metalworkforums.com/f189/t203814-er32-collet-setup


    20190904_185100.jpg

  12. #12
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    Even if a backplate is not a close fit to the cylindrical register, a good repeatably accurate fit will result.
    Some lathes do not rely on that feature at all - it's all taken care of by the threads and the flat face the backplate bumps against.
    In fact, the thread need not even be a close fit and still hold the backplate/chuck accurately enough.
    Where accuracy of fit does matter is at the spigot interface between the backplate and chuck.
    Commercially made chucks designed for backplate mounting ought to be accurate, but the backplate itself should be machined on the actual lathe it will be used on, for best results. Ideally there will be no play. Take off "dust" at the final cut.
    Great idea from Jackaroo. I found a dead lathe like mine, so I chopped off the end of the spindle to use as a gauge.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob ward View Post
    One possibility is to DIY an MT4.5 x ER32 collet chuck and hold it in place with a hollow draw tube. An MT5 x ER32 version allows through stock up to 20mm, that should also be possible with MT4.5. No imperial threads required.
    Certainly a possibility.

    Quote Originally Posted by jackaroo View Post
    I used the backing plate to make/replicate spindle nose then use that to cut the internal thread...
    The dummy is brass and cut that thread by turning the chuck by hand to the shoulder! Put it on highest speed and that makes it easier to turn by hand.

    Here is the link for the collet chuck
    https://metalworkforums.com/f189/t203814-er32-collet-setup


    20190904_185100.jpg
    Thats a good idea Jack.
    I checked out your thread, I see you found a collet chuck to suit your lathe.

    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    Even if a backplate is not a close fit to the cylindrical register, a good repeatably accurate fit will result.
    Some lathes do not rely at all on that feature at all - it's all taken care of by the threads and the flat face the backplate bumps against.
    In fact, the thread need not even be a close fit and still hold the backplate/chuck accurately enough.
    Where accuracy of fit does matter is at the spigot interface between the faceplate and chuck.
    Commercially made chucks designed for backplate mounting ought to be accurate, but the backplate itself should be machined on the actual lathe it will be used on, for best results. Ideally there will be no play. Take off "dust" at the final cut.
    Great idea from Jackaroo. I found a dead lathe like mine, so I chopped off the end of the spindle to use as a gauge.
    Interesting info, thanks. So if I can get made up, even if its not perfect, I might still be able to get decent accuracy out of it. Its annoying that I can't cut imperial threads, otherwise I would be having a go myself.
    ​Brad.
    Every Day might not be a good Day,
    but there is something good in every Day.

  14. #14
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    Default

    If someone was kind enough to turn a thread inside a piece of metal, there's nothing to stop you doing the taper to suit your collets. You'd have far better accuracy going this way. I'd fit the largest possible also.
    Be aware that there are differences between some of the makers of Collets, in this instance it was ER25s. DAMHIKT.
    Have attached a link for you. https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t192...ht=ER25+collet
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  15. #15
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    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
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    Default

    Brad there are a number of 5C collet systems for lathes you could consider. There are lots of chucks and some with hand wheels rather than chuck keys. There are also the drawbar type that you either close with a hand wheel or a leaver type. You would only need to find/make the 4 1/2 morse end. The 5C has been around a long time and while it doesn't have the grip range of an ER they can be setup with adjustable stops for repetitive work. They also have square, hexagonal and machinable collets for special holding. I have a chuck that uses a key and it came with the D1-5 mount already on it. They can be had with backing plates you can thread. More options to look into.

    Pete

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