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17th Sep 2019, 03:17 PM #61Senior Member
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Load check (or over centre) valves have been pretty much standard fitment to anything hydraulic lifting a load or people for about 25 years.
In most situations a secondary pressure is required to operate them.
You can get in line ones that operate off flow rate. If the line bursts the flow rate increases pushing on a spring loaded piston closing the port stopping flow. There are also others that don`t fully stop flow but restrict flow so that the load comes down slowly.
DSC06329 e.jpg
I use these ones on my engine crane and body roller. If the hose bursts flow stops. There is an internal bypass port that can be opened by adjusting a screw to let the load down.
Tony
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17th Sep 2019, 06:18 PM #62Most Valued Member
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Thanks Tony. An inline valve would be a simple solution.
Since its only a low flow system anyway I wouldn't expect any issues with it moving too quickly and false triggering the valve.
Any chance you could grab a part number or something off one of your valves so I know exactly what I'm chasing rather than going to the local hydraulics place asking for a "load valve thingy"
Steve
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17th Sep 2019, 08:38 PM #63Senior Member
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The part number is Caterpillar 9U-7464. They are used on their 50 -100 ton axle stands. They are for low flow (approx 5 l/m), high pressure (10,000 psi) circuits. Will not be cheap.
The circuits I use them in are 1500 psi with a flow rate from 2-4 l/m at no pressure. I am not sure they would be usefull for your needs.
I only just realized that your ram works back the front with lifting pressure being applied on the rod side.
Tony
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17th Sep 2019, 11:32 PM #64Most Valued Member
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I would concur with BTS, those valves will not suit your application.
To fit load check valves, the normal method is to mount them on the cylinder and plumb hard lines from the load check valve to the cylinder ports, then hoses from the check valve to the existing control valve. Naturally, being hydraulics this cost far more than it should.
My twisted, tortured mind has come up with another potential solution that will work provided your machine has electric power (either 12 or 24V will do). This solution will not pass any OH&S legislation, but the rest of your machine wouldn't either. There is a valve called a CBS valve that must be fitted to the hoist on tipper trucks that only allows fluid to flow if there is an electrical signal to the solenoid mounted on the valve (there is also an air operated version). A simple button mounted on top of the control valve lever that was pressed whenever raising or lowering was required would work. CBS valves are not extortionately expensive and could fit to the cylinder with a simple nipple so as to avoid extensive re plumbing.
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18th Sep 2019, 12:37 AM #65Most Valued Member
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18th Sep 2019, 08:40 PM #66Diamond Member
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Something like this could do the job:
https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydrau...ck-vrfu-14-bsp
Full flow when lifting, restricted flow (adjustable) when dropping. However it's worth noting that it's not pressure-compensated, so a heavy load will drop faster than a light load.
Also, while this is a UK supplier, if you're getting a quantity of hydraulic bits, they often turn out much cheaper than the local hydraulics shop, even after freight halfway around the world.
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18th Sep 2019, 10:03 PM #67Most Valued Member
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This is the type of valve. https://www.oilpath.com.au/oilpath-p...t-check-valve/
We used to get all our tipper kits from Gough transport Solutions, but I can't see these valves on their website however I will stake my life on them still stocking them as they have been a legal requirement on truck and trailer tippers for many years. Interesting how few have them fitted though.
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24th Sep 2019, 11:09 PM #68Most Valued Member
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Life is good when the boss gets some use out of my tools
Captured here collecting a couple of bits from a tree the neighbor felled. To be used in her garden somewhere...
Steve
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29th Sep 2019, 09:43 PM #69Most Valued Member
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The grandkids have named it "Mater" after the tow tuck in the "Cars" movies
Yesterday Mater got an engine oil/filter change and Today we finished off a couple of jobs we had to do together, so I pulled off the 2 selector to ram hoses so I can get replacements made.
Dropped the hydraulic filter so I can grab a new one.
Didn't expect to find it looking like this:
Time for a decent flush and new oil as well I think!
Steve
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29th Sep 2019, 10:08 PM #70Most Valued Member
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It's a wonder it managed to do any lifting. That is GROSS
Probably still the original filter.
Nice to see the boss using it too, makes it that bit more justifiable.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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29th Sep 2019, 10:50 PM #71Senior Member
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It might pay to strip the ram as well to check for sludge and inspect the seals.
A lot of hydraulic systems use a strainer or course filter on the suction side. (If its a well set up system there might be a fine filter on the return to tank line to filter out the fine material).
I have seen the suction filters sucked in and damaged because they have become so blocked allowing material to be pumped through the system.
Remember new lines are good. Anti-burst vales add another step up. But if the seals fail its all to no avail.
I pays to check everything.
Tony
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29th Sep 2019, 10:57 PM #72Most Valued Member
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That's the suction filter. No filter on the return side unless it's hidden inside the selector or tank.
Steve
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29th Sep 2019, 11:17 PM #73Most Valued Member
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Might be a good idea to fit one of these on the return, between the valve and the oil tank.
Something like this with a hydraulic filter screwed on.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Univ...0AAOSwuY1dbgQ6
They are fairly easy to make tho if you want a bit fun in the shed https://metalworkforums.com/f303/t20...14#post1932414
cheers, shed
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29th Sep 2019, 11:25 PM #74Senior Member
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Usually the suction filter will be in the tank with the return filter (if any) being external.
Tony
PS Forgot to mention, that creamy stuff indicates water is in the system. Check the bottom of the tank for rust, and check the ram there could be corrosion on the cylinder bore.
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30th Sep 2019, 12:39 PM #75Most Valued Member
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Yes, definitely water involved to grow that snot for starters, and there was separated water in the gunge that came out of the filter bowl.
I hear what you are saying about the need to check everything in the system, but at the moment I'm trying to draw a line and avoid turning it into a complete system strip/overhaul. I will pull the ram off and drain/flush as best I can before it goes back together but won't strip it. I can see the piston rod has some small rust pits so I'm pretty sure that as soon as it comes apart its going to turn into either a full overhaul or replacement. At that point I might take the opportunity to redesign things a bit - ie using the extend side of the ram for the lift for starters
Current plan is to just disconnect/flush everything as best I can and give the tank a good cleanout then new oil, pressure hoses and filter. The tank has a decent size access plate on the top so should be reasonably easy to get into.
Eventually ID'd the filter (geez I hate when people hit a whole machine with the spray gun without bothering to mask useful info like filter ID's and data plates etc!!). Its a Parker filter, but equivalent to a Baldwin PT9140.
Have ordered one of those.
Steve
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