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  1. #16
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    With a hydraulic damper I find I can use 10-14 for almost everything.
    On thin tubing I sometimes add a piece of wood.
    I do have a small thin kerf abrasive cutting wheel table saw that I use quite a bit for small pieces but it's nothing like an abrasive cut-off saw.

  2. #17
    jatt's Avatar
    jatt is offline Always within 10 paces from nearest stubby holder
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    Yep if have 2 choices of saw and one doesnt have hydraulic damping, I would be taking the one that has it.

    Our biggest unit runs one. Being able to adjust the rate of decent, at times is quite useful.
    Frisky wife, happy life. ​Then I woke up. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.
    From an early age my father taught me to wear welding gloves . "Its not to protect your hands son, its to put out the fire when u set yourself alight".

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    The cold cut saws are possibly a bit better, but they are still noisy.
    Carbide metal saws are noisy, true, but IMO not as bad as abrasive, and none of the dust and smoke, just chips. They would probably be the fastest of all cutting machines (except for a shear on flat stock). Their main downside is that the carbide teeth don't like overheating, so you need to take care cutting through anything with continuous engagement (solid stock or the flat sections of box and angle) to ensure the teeth are always cutting, not skating, which involves applying adequate down force.

    If you do kill the teeth, Irwin blades are about $150.

  4. #19
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    Bandsaw are quiet, cut the metal on thier own, not as dangerous, can be used vertical to cut also
    Draw backs - tend to need more clean up, need adjustment, limit of size of cut, blades wander, break, jam,

    Robbo saw noisy, dirty, bloody dangerous when forced blades shatter, limit of size of cut,
    Quick

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Bandsaw are quiet, cut the metal on thier own, not as dangerous, can be used vertical to cut also
    Draw backs - tend to need more clean up, need adjustment, limit of size of cut, blades wander, break, jam,


    Quick
    The only jamming issue I've had with my old Taiwanese metal bandsaw has been with very thick solid aluminium stock. You MUST use lube or it It will jamb and throw the blade every time.

    With lube all is good and very little/localised mess. In comparison I cut up an alloy car wheel rim for home casting with a tungsten tip circular saw and the mess was unbeleeeevable. Plus, being non magnetic meant it took ages to vacuum up and collect - never again. I use a reciprocating saw now and it's a breeze - with lube.

    The only times I've broken a bandsaw blade have been when irregular stock moved in the jaws, which is quite understandable.

    So once again it comes down to what you intend to cut with the saw.

    Cheers Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  6. #21
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    With lube all is good and very little/localised mess. In comparison I cut up an alloy car wheel rim for home casting with a tungsten tip circular saw and the mess was unbeleeeevable. Plus, being non magnetic meant it took ages to vacuum up and collect - never again. I use a reciprocating saw now and it's a breeze - with lube.
    I have really good wood dust extraction on my 12" tablesaw, so no mess with Al, Have to watch out for small off/cuts as the extraction may suck it right off the table - usually I cut 99% of the way through and then shut the blast gate to the OH guard and finish the cut . I keep a negative raked TC tipped blade on that saw and use it to cut wood plastic etc. Wood cutting is slow but great finish.

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