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18th Aug 2019, 09:13 PM #1Most Valued Member
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Joining air compressors, 1/2" outlets on toy compressors...
Hey guys as per the other thread after i derailed it from air tools to compressors...
I am going to buy a couple cheap 40L 50L second hand air compressors both will be 2hp each i plan on joining the two to one output hose for 4hp 80L capacity byt wait... these little sucky sucky compressors suck with there 1/4" outlets so my plan is to drill and tap the inspection plug for a 1/2" fitting on both tanks for ultimate output in cubic feet per minute
Any thoughts or advice? I was going to go 2 brand new 50L vertical 2hp compressors but second hand are next to nothing
I have a 15amp outlet to use
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18th Aug 2019, 09:42 PM #2Most Valued Member
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I can't really tell if it will take a 1/2" BSP. I can see that there is a plug of some sort in it, hopefully it will be your 1/2". 3/8" bsp requires a 14.75mm hole where as a 1/2"BSP requires 18.25mm hole to tap.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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18th Aug 2019, 10:03 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Ah Kryn i meant 1/2" outlet not imperial thread i will use whatever i order it'll probably be all nitto fittings they seem to be easy to come by
I dont think i will be keeping the pilot air compressor i just dont know what is wrong with it
I was considering getting 2 of the 2hp ryobi 50L compressors from bunnings
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18th Aug 2019, 10:44 PM #4Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Compressor tanks walls are too thin to just drill and tap. Either a spigot or thick plate has to be professionally welded onto the tank into which a hole drilled and tapped into that. Either way you void the Warranty.
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18th Aug 2019, 10:50 PM #5Most Valued Member
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... these little sucky sucky compressors suck with there 1/4" outlets so my plan is to drill and tap the inspection plug for a 1/2" fitting on both tanks for ultimate output in cubic feet per minute
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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19th Aug 2019, 12:44 AM #6Senior Member
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I would come out of each comp on the standard outlet (1/4” will run more air than these will make), fit a non-return valve to each and then join to a T setup and then run ½” to where ever you need to go. The non-return valves stop one comp trying to back charge the other.
I run my two 11 cmf comps off two separate electrical circuits. No need to run two if I`m not using a lot of air. I use to run a little direct unit as well for when you only need a small amount of air but it smoked itself.
This is what can happen if you have boxes full of bits you have been collecting for years.
Air coming in from the shed behind the garage goes into the collector. From there it splits to two work areas.
DSC06949 e.jpg
The 3 gauge and valve set ups come from the drain ports on the bottom of the comps and collector. No need to go out to the other shed to drain.
Regulator with the yellow line is straight air. Regulator-oiler with blue line is for air tools.
DSC06307 e.jpg
Half way down the garage is another set up.
Has changed since this pic. The 2 lines from collector run into a water separator then off to the 2 regulators and a ½’ line feeding the sandblaster.
DSC08055 e.jpg
Forgot I do have another single air outlet up near the dill press.
Tony
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19th Aug 2019, 05:25 AM #7Most Valued Member
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Yeah was planning on tapping the bung plug on inspection hole due to it having the thickness needed drilling the tank would be pretty scary and wreckless
Hopefully agreeing on a price on one used compressor later today, would love to go 2 new compressors but that uses up the whole $400 budget no cash for hoses and fittings
Two of these https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-ai...essor_p6210594
Or two of these https://sydneytools.com.au/product/f...air-compressor
I have a job that needs some sand blasting so a dual compressor set up would come in handy that 80-100L volume and the omph of running directly from the tank should turn these little toy compressors into quiet a machine im thinking
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19th Aug 2019, 09:23 AM #8
Even with two of those small compressors blasting is going to be a very slow stop start process, would only consider that type of setup for small parts.
Have a closer look at the specs on your current compressor, I suspect that repair of it will be far better quality and output than two small direct drive compressors.
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19th Aug 2019, 09:39 AM #9Most Valued Member
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Droog output on the Pilot Air is only 6.5cfm its rated 10.8cfm, 6.5cfm is only 184 litres when its put like that some of these tiny direct drive air compressors put out more power than my belt model sadly, i know its a good compressor just i suck at problem solving and don't know what is wrong with the Pilot Air i will say it only cost me $125 to buy but i suspect it was so cheap because of its problem and to put it into the shop for repairs would probably far out cost the machines second hand value
i will put a new check valve on it and see if that fixes it but i donno...
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19th Aug 2019, 10:21 AM #10
Having both an older belt drive as well as a small direct drive to compare to, I still think that you will be wasting money buying two of the ones you linked to replace your older belt drive.
You may also find that the older belt drive is capable of a lot higher max tank pressure (145 psi ?) as compared to the direct drives (115 psi ?).
What type and size of blasting are you hoping to achieve ?
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19th Aug 2019, 11:54 AM #11Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I agree - it's quite likely you will be underwhelmed by cheap small compressor's performance. ALong the same lines as many air tool manufactures understate the air requirements for air tools, budget end compressor specs are pretty suspect as well.
The theoretical max a 2HP compressor can produce air is about 200L/min. This is JUST the compressor, ie no hoses etc.
The Ryobi claims 190 L/min but more likely in practice it will be something like 150 L/m.
And, as Droog says, it's only at 115 PSI max.
If the required pressure is 90 PSI the difference from the compressors 115 PSI max is only 1.7 Atm. Even with 100L of tank Vol that's only 170 L of free air - this is not that different to a 50L tank at 135PSI dropping to 90 PSI = 150L of free air.
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19th Aug 2019, 01:54 PM #12Most Valued Member
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Cheers guys i will stick it out with the belt drive today i picked up a genuine Pilot Air check valve but the new one was reverse to the old one that wasnt to much a problem but when i screwed it on i noticed the smallest hole only had a male threaded nut kind of thing it had no insert for the hose is this normal? i may have missed it and squashed it inside the check valve i hope i didnt and its an additional part?
i tried to make the new hose barb fitting that goes into the neck of the check valve its just blowing air out the check valve
hopefully i didn't screw it up and have to buy another check valve this one cost $50
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19th Aug 2019, 05:56 PM #13Most Valued Member
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Got it all sorted i had the check valve on the wrong way it has 2 ports the same size haha anyhow i got the compressor fired up and it works but i am not sure if this is how its meant to run its not dipping to that ultimate stall anymore but it does slow down
in the video the first mark on the gauge is 0psi, second mark is 72.5psi, 3 mark where it cuts out is 145psi you can hear the belt start to slip around the 90psi to 115psi do u guys possibly think i havethe wrong belt on the machine? it may need a notched belt to go around the pulley radius better i am thinking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClCEWDTenBc
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19th Aug 2019, 06:42 PM #14
Hi Gazza,
The belt is not tight enough, and you might find that with it slipping, its has polished the belt surface. There is some stuff that can be used to restore the grip.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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19th Aug 2019, 07:10 PM #15Most Valued Member
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Barron any tighter and the pulleys dont turn i'll try source a new belt tomorrow hopefully a mower shop has a A43 notched belt wish me luck
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