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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    67
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    362

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    Depending on motor speed and pulley sizing you could be losing 5-10% of pump speed. That and a few leeks and your losing a lot of air.

    As droog said don`t go over the standard pulley size on the motor. Fried motor or damaged pump are not the way to go. Unless of course you have a lot of spares laying around.

    I cannot over state the effects air leaks can have on a system.
    I have been to factories-workshops were we have managed to cut down air consumption by 25% by plugging up the leaks. That's a lot of dollars when you can get it from 600 cfm and looking at installing larger compressors down to 450 cfm saving on comps and the on going electricity costs.
    Its the same for the home diyer. A spray bottle with sudsy water is your friend.

    Tony

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    Thanks guys i will try find a similar pulley maybe hare and forbes sell them or i can get one from pilot air factory

    I will be doing a mix of everything in general with the compressor i have done everything so far with it struggling i turned to cordless tools of late tho (rattle guns) i was firstly using my stubby 400fb stubby pneumatic rattle gun but being bummed by the poorly set up compressor i turned to cordless my first cordless rattle gun crapped out second one still going but i want to go to pneumatic tools much more reliable and a lot tougher than the plastic cordless tools if i happen to leave one under the car and drive over it

    The blasting is just one job its to sand blast about 4 meters of 100x80mm angle iron before i get it galvanised, other jobs for the compressor will be entire boat respray inside out side the lot

    Would love to get more air tools 1/4" 3/8" rattle guns and wrenches as i work on engines

    Biggest bummer tho i am restoring a 5.7 meter boat and after the demo i was left with a lot of dust to vacuum as the compressor wasnt up to the task of blowing it all out of the boat so it was a long long vacuum job but now i can just blow it out and be done

    Would love to build a mans toy tho a outdoor compressor 300-350L tank 18hp petrol motor ( i dont have access to 3 phase) 42cfm pump that would do anything i literarly want to do

  3. #33
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    The only leak i can feel is the one way valve going into the tank i wont repair it just this moment i will put thread tape on the valve when i replace the broken copper pipe as that has to come off and if i remove it now it may break futher i need time to look into the copper pipe and what tools it takes, ordering the parts and tools and waiting for them to be delivered

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Bendigo
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    60
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    419

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    i will put thread tape on the valve when i replace the broken copper pipe
    If the leak is where the copper pipe goes into the check valve don’t put tape on it, the thread doesn’t do the sealing, it is the compression flare that does the sealing.
    On the other hand if it is one of the tapered threads then use tape.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    146

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    Purchased some double 75mm steel V pulleys a few months back from the local SKF bearing supplier, they weren't that expensive, ~$30 per set (~$20 pulley + ~$9 taper lock bore), this was on account so buying without one it'll be a little more expensive I think.
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  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    5,942

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    The blasting is just one job its to sand blast about 4 meters of 100x80mm angle iron before i get it galvanised, other jobs for the compressor will be entire boat respray inside out side the lots
    The Galvanisers should be able to remove any rust paint etc, prior to the Galvanising Process.
    It's dipped, I believe in Sulphuric Acid.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Australia east coast
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    71
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    2,713

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Would love to build a mans toy tho a outdoor compressor 300-350L tank 18hp petrol motor ( i dont have access to 3 phase) 42cfm pump that would do anything i literarly want to do
    Actually it wouldn't and I have a 120 cfm Hydrovane air compressor.

    You really need at least 200 cfm and preferably double that for serious sand/grit blasting. In the end I sent mine out to get it done. Lot less hassle.

    As for using compressed air to blow out the dust in a boat, sure, that'll work. Now the dust is all over your shed and tools....... I've destroyed 2-3 vacuum cleaners in my workshop because I'd rather suck up stuff than blow it all over the place.

    PDW

  8. #38
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    As for using compressed air to blow out the dust in a boat, sure, that'll work. Now the dust is all over your shed and tools....... I've destroyed 2-3 vacuum cleaners in my workshop because I'd rather suck up stuff than blow it all over the place.
    A small cyclone between the hose and the vac should help - well, . . . maybe reduce the number of vacs you go through

  9. #39
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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    A small cyclone between the hose and the vac should help - well, . . . maybe reduce the number of vacs you go through
    They're cheap enough if you buy the disposable ones from Bunnings. Seems they don't like a steady diet of metal dust. Now I'm not doing anywhere as much welding & grinding their longevity might improve.

    I've got a big Carbatec dust extractor for the woodworking gear. One of these days I may rig up a gable mounted dust extractor/vent too.

    PDW

  10. #40
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    They're cheap enough if you buy the disposable ones from Bunnings. Seems they don't like a steady diet of metal dust. Now I'm not doing anywhere as much welding & grinding their longevity might improve.

    I've got a big Carbatec dust extractor for the woodworking gear. One of these days I may rig up a gable mounted dust extractor/vent too.

    PDW
    The problem with vacuuming metal working metalworking swarf and dust (grinding, welding etc) is that even when new, shopvac filters (especially cheaper ones) let though fine (invisible) dust. Then the swarf further damages the filters and lets even more fine dust through, well before the vac is stuffed.. Humans cannot see this dust but it does affect some people quite badly. There is evidence that metal dust causes sarcoidosis which I have and so have taken precautions to not exacerbate this. The best solution is a fully vented (outside the shed) dust extraction system. If you don't want to or can't do this a small cyclone between the house and the vaC Will at least protect the shop vac filter from swarf damage.

    I have my grinders and linishers connected up to my woody DC. In between the two I use this swarf and "hot metal object" catcher (blue drum) on my grinder turntable
    The main problem I now have is remembering to turn it on!
    IMG_1615.jpg

  11. #41
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Wow had a real taste for size on the compressor this afternoon using the little air die grinder was lasting i would guess no more than 13 seconds before the compressor kicked in it was crazy i tried using the die grinder at a slower speed but it only lengthened my time a little but i kept using the compressor while it was on just to finish

    i really need a decent amount of air but cannot afford it at the moment kind of wish i kept that ProAir 100L petrol compressor but i neglected it and let it rust

    i am inquiring about this tank below its massive probably 200L 300L would love to put a 16hp petrol engine on it with a 42cfm pump about a $900 set up but the air demand would be ridiculous

    mine compressor actually seems very tiny now, love that die grinder tho done everything i wanted and its light was easy to hold upside down or right way up many positions..

    got ripped on my carbide burrs one has a big slice thru it now i know why the guy in the shop told me to put it back and he got one from the back shelf
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  12. #42
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    I am contemplating buying this tank guys if it is still for sale by the time i pull my finger out
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  13. #43
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I am contemplating buying this tank guys if it is still for sale by the time i pull my finger out
    Before you buy, open the tank vent valve and see what comes out.
    I'd alsolike to put the tanks under pressure to see if/where it leaks.

  14. #44
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Guys,

    Before you start pressurising any unknown tank, find its pressure rating, fill it with water and pump water into it using a pressure gauge to monitor it. Normally tanks are tested to twice working pressure. At least if the tank has a weakness, using water it isn't going to blow you to bits, where as using air it could simply become a bomb.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #45
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Yeah i know about the water great advice, found a ripper 3 phase compressor for next to nothing its pretty big would make for a petrol conversion quiet easily but it weighs 500kg

    Disassembling to move would be the ideal way to move it i would imagine the motor would weigh 150kg

    If i did go with one of these compressor conversions and use a pilot valve the blow off type are u able to modify the air outlet blow off to run a length of hose into a bucket of water to stop that loud unloading pssssssssst that will be happening every couple of minutes

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