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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,436

    Thumbs up Damper block.

    Hi Guys,

    I've started work on making a drop damper for the 6x4 bandsaw. The hydraulic tube is one salvaged from a car shock absorber so I'll be limited to the diameter of the tube used which is 30 mm outside diameter, the length has not been determined yet.

    I've started by cutting a piece of 20 mm thick plate from the scrap box into a roughly square piece 60 mm by 60 mm. I actually fly cut the opposite ends to ensure that they were parallel to each other and brought the size down to exactly 60 mm. After that I marked the hole centres and the centre line.

    I have decided to use M6 cap screws which have a 10 mm diameter head, so I marked the block with the hole centres 5.5 mm in from the block edges on the centre line and one hole 30 mm up from the edge. This hole will go through into the hydraulic tube.

    I drilled the two outside holes 5 mm tapping size for M6 right through the block. A 60 mm deep hole is not easy, once you have got to about 30 mm or so you have to clear the drill flutes often to prevent jamming. I only drilled the centre hole 15 mm deep since this will only need to go through the hydraulic tube wall.

    After drilling I then, using the bandsaw, cut the block in half on the marked centre line. The pictures show the result. The holes in the bottom half of the block will be threaded, the outside ones in the top half will be counter bored after drilling to clear M6. These holes will be used to clamp the two blocks together for boring out to suit the hydraulic tube. A shim will be used between these blocks before boring to ensure that the tube is properly secured.

    04-10-2019-001.jpg 04-10-2019-002.jpg

    04-10-2019-003.jpg 04-10-2019-004.jpg
    Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of actually marking out the block before I drilled it. So whilst these pictures are staged, this is exactly how I did it. I made the hight gauge some time ago, its described on the forum somewhere.

    At this point I had already fly cut the block ends so that it was square and exactly to size. You can also see how rough the faces of the block were. I think this piece must have been used as an anvil at some time in its previous life.

    I zeroed the hight gauge and then set the gauge to 5.5 mm and marked the block at each end, then set the gauge to 30 mm and marked the centre hole and across the block after turning it through 90 degrees.

    04-10-2019-007.jpg 04-10-2019-005.JPG
    These two pictures show the cut faces of the block and give an idea of the sight out of square achieved.

    Now to thread those holes !

    Thanks guys
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Guys,

    A few more pictures and a drawing !

    05-10-2019-001.JPG 05-10-2019-002.JPG

    05-10-2019-003.JPG 05-10-2019-004.JPG
    I fly cut both sides of the block after bolting together along with a 20 thou shim between them. I hope that it will be enough to allow the tube to be gripped tight and not allow any oil to leak out. You can see where I pop marked the centre, ready to put in the four jaw for drilling and then boring out.

    Bandsaw-damper-01.png
    I've also included the drawing for the block. Its now 1 mm thinner than the drawing shows after I've cleaned it up. Next job is to bore it out and test fit it to the hydraulic tube.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Boring !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now bored the support block for the bandsaw hydraulic damper !

    06-10-2019=004.JPG 06-10-2019=003.jpg

    06-10-2019=002.JPG 06-10-2019=001.JPG
    These first pictures show the setting up of the block in the four jaw chuck. I used a long 200 mm rod with a point on one end and a dimple in the other. The point was placed into the pop mark on the work and supported at the tail stock end, in this case by the centre drill that I used to start the hole for drilling out. You can see from the pictures of the dial gauge that I centred the block within +- 0.5 thou. Close enough !

    06-10-2019=005.jpg
    Here I'm finished centre drilling, ready for the 6 mm diameter drill that I used to make the pilot hole ready for the big drill.

    06-10-2019=006.jpg 06-10-2019=007.jpg
    This drill is a 1" inch blacksmiths drill, these come with a reduced size shank designed to fit into a standard 1/2" drill chuck. At 300 rpm it makes very short work of knocking a hole through the block. The shavings that you can see on the top slide are from the drilling.

    06-10-2019=008.JPG 06-10-2019=011.JPG
    Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of the actual boring out. I started with a 40 thou cut and then on the second 40 thou, near the back of the hole hit something very hard. Much harder than the HSS boring bar ! It took a chunk out of the end. So as much as I try not to use carbide tooling, preferring HSS, I had to resort to making a bar to take a square, zero rake, carbide insert. Which I then used to finish boring the hole.

    06-10-2019=009.JPG 06-10-2019=010.JPG

    Now having said that, I'm quite pleased with the finish that the tool produced. As you can see in the second picture above. I've often heard that carbide likes to be run fast, so I ran the lathe at 850 rpm and the finest feed I had, and that is the result. So I'm impressed by that performance. The last cut was at 5 thou and the hole was dead to size.

    Taking it out of the lathe and removing the 20 thou shims it grips the hydraulic tube perfectly. I hope. At least until it gets oil under pressure on it. The next job is to make a cap to fit inside the bottom of the tube and then secure it in place. I'm hoping that I can use an adhesive to do that, rather than trying to weld it in place.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    Default

    Nice work, as usual. Would it be possible to silver solder the cap to the end of the pipe, rather than trying to use an adhesive??
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Nice work, as usual. Would it be possible to silver solder the cap to the end of the pipe, rather than trying to use an adhesive??
    Kryn
    Hi Kryn,

    Yes it would ! Indeed it is one of the methods that have crossed my mind. Part of using an adhesive was that if needed the cap could be removed to make any alterations.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #96
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    If that's the case, why not thread the inside or the outside and make a plug or cap to suit. If you make it long enough, you could incorporate the pivot point into it also.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Kryn,

    Good suggestions thank you !

    One of the reasons for drilling and threading the lower half of the mounting block right through, is that I intend to use a plate bolted onto the rear of the bottom with the hinge pivot fastened to it. The bandsaw body has a taper which means that I have to secure a fastening, either in the rib that the body sits on or in the frame below it. Both of which are parallel to the hinge arm. I'm not sure yet just how much room or clearance I'm going to have between the damper cylinder and the saw body or the frame.

    At this moment I'm working on a control valve for the oil flow using a 1/4" brass gas "T". I need to go and buy some elbows for it as well.

    Thanks Kryn.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Carbide insert tool.

    Hi Guys,

    I mentioned in an earlier post that I had to make a carbide tool to finish boring the block for the hydraulic damper. I realised that I had forgotten to post the pictures of the tool that I made.

    The insert was an odd one that I had acquired at some time, so I've no idea what it would have been intended to be used for. Its 10 mm square and 4 mm thick.

    08-10-2019-001.JPG 08-10-2019-003.JPG
    I used a bit of scrap 15 X 10 mm mild steel bar. Using a 3 mm slot drill, I cut a recess 9 mm by 10 mm to suit the carbide insert that I had. I used a centre pop punch through the hole in the insert by holding it into the pocket and then drilling and threading M3 to suit a screw that I had kicking about.

    You can see the broken off corner which happened on the first cut into the bore. Whatever was in there just took the corner off the carbide insert. If you look closely you will see that the second corner also got chipped, but not as badly. I finished the bore with the next corner round.

    08-10-2019-004.JPG 08-10-2019-005.JPG
    This is the boring bar from the top and the left side. Its a zero rake insert, so when I machined the pocket I set the bar about 5 degrees up at the tail end before machining. The rounded part below the insert was done with a file to ensure that it didn't foul the edge of the bore as it went through.

    Now I freely admit that I'm not a fan of carbide tooling ! But I am very pleased with the way that the bore in the block came out, with a really nice finish. Would I use a carbide insert tool again ? Yes I would ! certainly in this particular case I couldn't have finished the workpiece with without using a carbide tool.

    Thanks guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Control Valve !

    Hi Guys,

    Warning lots of pictures !

    I've essentially finished making the control valve for the hydraulic drop damper. As mentioned earlier, I'm using a 1/4" gas "T".

    07-10-2019-002.JPG 07-10-2019-003.JPG 07-10-2019-004.JPG
    This is the brass 1/4" gas "T". Nothing particularly special about it, each of the tree ends has a copper olive that is used to both secure the copper pipe and make the joint gas tight. This means that the joints will be oil tight as well.

    09-10-2019=001.JPG 08-10-2019-007.JPG
    This is a family picture of the components used to make the valve. Apart from the copper tube, nuts and olives, there are three other components, actually four. The piece of 10 mm diameter polypropylene rod in the second picture.

    08-10-2019-006.JPG 07-10-2019-008.JPG
    The through hole of the "T" was carefully set up vertically in the drill vise and the bore of the through hole was drilled and then reamed to 7 mm. the second picture shows the 7 mm drill through the bore. A piece of the polypropylene rod was turned down to 7 mm plus 5 thou. The end was squared off and then a piece was parted off to match the length of the hole in the "T" between the ridges that stop the copper tube from being inserted too far. You can see the pressed in piece of rod in the picture.

    07-10-2019-005.JPG 07-10-2019-006.JPG

    07-10-2019-007.JPG 07-10-2019-009.JPG 07-10-2019-010.JPG
    Before pressing the piece of polypropylene rod, I set the "T" up in the drill vise using one of the nuts and an olive with a 1/4" inch drill in the chuck to make sure that it was a near to vertical as I could get it. Nipping up the drill vise locked the "T" in the nuts preventing it from moving out of position. After removing the top nut and olive, I carefully drilled the leg of the "T" with a 6.8 mm drill until the drill tip just touched the bottom of the through hole.

    It was at this point that I discovered that the leg of the "T" was about a 1/16" of an inch out of true with the rest of the casting. Having gone this far, I decided that I would continue and if it caused a problem I would throw the whole lot in the bin.

    As you can see in the next two pictures I used the drill as a tapping stand and tapped the leg of the "T" M8. One of the nice things about Jacobs chucks is that the chuck key handle fits the holes in the chuck body, making it easy to use the drill to tap the hole dead square.

    09-10-2019=003.JPG
    These two components were made in order to perform the next tasks. Both pieces were made to perform the task of drill guides. One for the now filled in bore of the "T" and the other to drill the through hole down the leg of the "T" through the polypropylene rod. The piece on the left was made from a piece of silver steel rod turned down to fit through the nut and be held securely by it. This piece was drilled through with a 3 mm hole, and made 3/4" inch long to make sure that the drill was centred and square to the bore of the "T".

    The other piece was a short length of M8 threaded rod drilled through 4 mm and used to drill the cross hole in the polypropylene rod.

    09-10-2019=006.JPG 09-10-2019=007.JPG 09-10-2019=005.JPG
    These pictures show the hole drilled through the bore of the "T" and the valve spindle that runs in the M8 thread used to open and close the valve. The valve pin is 4 mm diameter and is a tight fit into the plastic creating an air tight seal between the two ends. Unscrewing the valve spindle allows a flow that is fully controllable.

    09-10-2019=002.JPG 09-10-2019=004.JPG
    These are pictures of the completed valve. I'm considering whether I need to turn the valve shaft down to put an "O" ring in under the nut or not ! We shall have to see if the pressure causes any weeping at that joint.

    Well that's this bit done, so thanks Guys for your help and advise.
    Thanks for following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Wow. Nice work Baron!

    I'm keen to see it working. That's a great idea for making a valve.

    Simo

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
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  11. #101
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    7,182

    Default

    Yes indeed, a very clever idea.

    Not a valve, but something similar (a small piston) made from cheap SS bits I made for a low pressure calibration system of a pressure sensor earlier this year.
    https://metalworkforums.com/f303/t20...e-measurements

    Recently I needed two SS needle valves for my coffee machine testing but I found I could buy them on line (~$10) for about the price of the stainless component plumbing parts. Components would be slightly cheaper in brass.

  12. #102
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,436

    Thumbs up Valve Drawing !

    Hi Guys,

    Thank you for your comments, they are much appreciated. The forum seems very quiet today, though I've not been doing very much myself. I've created a drawing for the valve that I made, so at least I won't forget the dimensions.

    Damper-Control-Valve-01.png
    The blue lines are internal and the red are dimensions.
    Actually I've just spotted that the top left item has the wrong colour external lines, not that it makes a whole lot of difference. It will only take a few seconds to change those.


    Kryn: I've decided to take your advice and solder a plug into the bottom of the damper tube. Having thought about it, there really isn't a reason to need to remove it once its fitted.

    Thanks guys for your support.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #103
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Hi BJ, thanks for the drawing. I'm having a bit of a problem trying to work out where all the bits fit in?
    Pieces like the shouldered bar, the piece of poly, etc.
    Nice work as usual by the way.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #104
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Kryn,

    Just scroll up a bit and look at the "Control Valve" pictures ! Explains everything
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #105
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Am I a DUMMY
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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