Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 121
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Russ,

    The one that I have will go into a vertical position, there is even a piece of tin plate to use as a table.

    From a discussion that I've had today with a chap who has one of these, it seems that when the cutting arm is vertical any attempt to move the saw by using its wheels, causes the saw to over balance and fall over backwards. The likely cause of the damage to the machine I have.

    There was a modification done on the later machines using a steel pin to lock the arm down preventing it from lifting. However I can't see that stopping someone from moving the saw with the arm in a vertical position. The real cure would be to move the wheels three or four inches further back or to transfer them to the front, in which case you would have to lift virtually the whole machine weight in order to wheel it.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #17
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    From a discussion that I've had today with a chap who has one of these, it seems that when the cutting arm is vertical any attempt to move the saw by using its wheels, causes the saw to over balance and fall over backwards. The likely cause of the damage to the machine I have.
    I agree, moving the BS with the cutting arm in the upright position is asking for trouble. Even after I added a SS coolant collection tray, a tray between the legs on which a 5L coolant tank and pump (~10kg) was located I'm not game to move it with the arm up.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Russ,
    From a discussion that I've had today with a chap who has one of these, it seems that when the cutting arm is vertical any attempt to move the saw by using its wheels, causes the saw to over balance and fall over backwards. The likely cause of the damage to the machine I have.
    John this would happen because these saws have the wheels on the back and to move the saw you would lift the front of the saw and with the change in angle the wheels would contact the floor and then you push it to where you want.

    But in your case you wont be lifting the front of the saw as you are putting 4 wheels on it so over balancing wont be a problem for you.

    cheers, shed

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    I made a frame for mine out of 50X50X3 angle with 75mm castors under it, the rear castors were set up behind the motor and also outside of the saw to give it more balance.
    Now it won't tip back or over. The only other mod that I want to make is a seat to go over the bed, as if I move the wrong way, the saw gets switched off, plus it's uncomfortable.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    The chap that I was chatting with tells me that he uses a bicycle seat clamped in the vise jaws !
    Interesting that, I will have to investigate that further.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,322

    Default

    When I went to check out a 6x4 on Gumtree for $50, the guy went to drag it out in his garage, whereupon it immediately overbalanced, smashing the back of the motor housing as it hit the concrete. The guy assumed I wouldn't want it, but upon plugging it in, the motor ran fine, so I gave him his $50 without haggling, as I regarded it as a pretty damn good price, even with a ding in the motor.

    I have it screwed down to a carefully engineered piece of 17mm formply with Ikea castors in each corner.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    I would have loved to have seen his face when that happened

    As long as there was no other damage, all is good !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Bandsaw mods.

    Hi Guys,

    I've done some more work on the bandsaw !

    09-08-2019-002.jpg 09-08-2019-001.JPG
    I've machined the piece of steel that I had earmarked to go into the trough in the base. Its 22.5 mm wide and 11 mm thick. Its a good tight fit, I might just knock it out and use some loctite to secure it instead of fitting a plate underneath to retain it.

    10-08-2019-005.JPG 09-08-2019-006.jpg 09-08-2019-008.jpg 09-08-2019-007.jpg 10-08-2019-007.jpg 10-08-2019-008.jpg 10-08-2019-008.jpg 10-08-2019-006.jpg
    One of the other modifications I've made was to fit plates to the vice faces. First to extend the working surfaces right to the blade so that it can accommodate thin cuts and short pieces of stock. Those plates are 60 mm wide pieces of 6 mm thick steel bar. I was going to thread the cast iron parts, but decided to thread the steel plates instead. It gives me more depth for countersinking the heads of the hex CSK M6 screws that I've used. I've also put an M8 threaded hole on the left end of the moving vise faceplate. This again is so that I can cut short lengths of stock without hunting for the right size packing piece.

    I've also made a "T" nut that fits into the curved slot that locates the left hand end of the fixed jaw. I will put a new bolt with a handle on it for that end.

    That's all for now. Next job is making the stand. I have to get some suitable material for that.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #24
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Looking good BJ.

    I've found it useful to be able to slide the vice plates added to the top vice because plate because when the vice is rotated for angle cuts this moves the ends of the vice plate away from the band.
    I did this by adding a recessed slot as per the picture below.

    I didn't install a lower vice plate face as that slide of the vice can be moved over far enough and it also reduces cut capacity.
    Viceplate.jpg

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Bob,

    Thanks for the pictures.

    It is interesting to see how other people make their modifications to this machine. I particularly like your jack screw. I was thinking a piece of all thread and a little round knob loctited onto the end of the thread, since there is very little turning force needed there.

    I've the top half to reassemble yet and I've started a drawing for a frame type stand for the machine.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Jack Screw.

    Hi Guys,

    Made a Jack Screw yesterday to go into the bandsaw vise movable jaw.

    11-08-2019-001.JPG 11-08-2019-002.jpg 11-08-2019-003.JPG 11-08-2019-004.JPG
    A three inch length of M8 all thread and a slice of 1" inch diameter aluminium bar. Drilled and threaded M8, knurled and stepped then Loctited on the end of the M8 stud.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    I've owned my 6x4 bandsaw for over 20 years, these mods have been on my to do list, lol
    Recently rebuilt my 12x7 and used it after getting it cheap and it sitting for 6 years, I don't like it as much as the 6x4. It definitely needs longer vice jaws as there so short and a few other refinements to become as useful.
    I bought it hoping I could get rid of my 6x4, but the 6x4 is going nowhere anytime soon.
    Using Tapatalk

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    G/day John, my 6 x 4 does not cut very square and the coolant pump that i put on it was seized last time i went to use it.

    I dont really care much about those things and who knows i might get around to doing something about them, but what i couldn't live with is a bandsaw with no hydraulic downfeed, that balance spring is a shocker.

    Its just something else to think about anyway, tomorrow i will find or take some pics of the cylinder on mine, its not that flash but it is functional.

    cheers, shed

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi John,

    I don't know at the moment how good or bad mine will be for cutting. Finding the damage that I did, particularly the hinge bracket being broken and the bodge job that someone did to try and fix it, I do worry that the arm will be square to the bed. I've bought several new parts to rectify the relatively few problems that I've found.

    I hope that I don't have any serious issues with getting it to cut straight. Even with the £20 odd, I've spent on new parts, I really pinched this machine from the people that I got it from ! I'm very grateful to the works foreman for telling me about it in the first place.

    I would be very interested in the hydraulic downfeed cylinder, so any information on yours would be appreciated. The stand is the next major item. I've done a drawing for it and now have to source some 1" square steel tube to make it. Of course I'm going to have to cut it to length with a hacksaw, I do need a bandsaw

    Thanks:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Here you go John, some new and old pic's for you.
    I cut open a car shocker and used the burnished tube and the rod seal, the base of the cylinder has a non return valve on one side for ease of returning the piston to the start position and a needle valve on the other side that is adjusted to control the down speed of the blade.
    The outer cylinder is water pipe, the ends screw into the pipe to hold it together and the pipe also is the reservoir for the oil, oil is SAE30.
    When the blade is lifted to the vertical position it resets the cylinder, the R clip sets where the cylinder starts to act when the blade is returned to the cut, this saves time as you don't have to wait for the cylinder to travel down to the job.

    cheers, shed
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. New acquisition
    By phaser in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 23rd Apr 2019, 10:44 PM
  2. bandsaw
    By shaper07 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 23rd Aug 2016, 01:34 AM
  3. Today's tool acquisition
    By Michael G in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 1st Jun 2014, 06:35 PM
  4. It's Stuart's Fault. An Optical Acquisition.
    By Anorak Bob in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 37
    Last Post: 4th Dec 2013, 12:48 PM
  5. Bandsaw
    By Pete F in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 11th Sep 2009, 05:27 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •